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Suspension Tech: Bring It!
- Thread starter BMR Tech
- Start date
@ kelly or Dylan,
I have a stock height, auto, axle back only equipped car, Im entering into a street tire shoot out and just ordered your poly TCA019 and CAB005. what hole should i start with for the relo and what you recommend for tire pressure? this shoot out is mostly stock ish cars just for fun at our clubs yearly drag event.
Eventually I will get getting everything but I thought these would be the best bang for the buck being stock.
thanks
I have a stock height, auto, axle back only equipped car, Im entering into a street tire shoot out and just ordered your poly TCA019 and CAB005. what hole should i start with for the relo and what you recommend for tire pressure? this shoot out is mostly stock ish cars just for fun at our clubs yearly drag event.
Eventually I will get getting everything but I thought these would be the best bang for the buck being stock.
thanks
Stock ride height use top hole. You could experiment using middle hole possibly but I used the top hole and dropped to middle after sp065 (1.5 drop)
Tire pressure I been running 35psi with my 285/35/19s on all corners. Rear tires I usually run at 32 psi lately.. This is cold pressure and goes up quite a bit with my driving style after a hillclimb run. Might experiment with lower pressures until the lights come on.
Yeah I forgot to mention they are the stock tires as well. The ultimate equalizer. ..lol
I'd run top hole and use the pressure indicated on door panel. Do some runs with low pressure too and report back with what you think!
BMR Tech 2
Active Member
80KM2E beat me to it! I'd do the top hole, and try 32 PSI. You may need to mess around with the pressure a little bit, but 32 PSI has worked well for me on street tires.
Great thanks guys!
I am installing a set of the lowering drag springs and a Panhard bar with the rod end / poly combo and i have some questions???
1. The model number on the front springs are sp0068 and the model number on the rear is sp0012re .. Do I have the correct rear springs?
2.the springs didn't come with instructions so I just replaced the springs and found them later online later with a bunch of torque specs should I go back through and retorque all the bolts.
3 Does the rod end of the Panhard bar go on the drivers or passengers side?
4. the rod end doesn't seem to want to fit either side should i have to bend the pan hard brackets to make the rod end fit?
I also have LCA and relocation bracket coming in the mail I was told that I would nit be able to relocate the sway bars for a 15x10 with out heavy modifying the LCA bracket is that true?
Thanks for the help
Joe
1. The model number on the front springs are sp0068 and the model number on the rear is sp0012re .. Do I have the correct rear springs?
2.the springs didn't come with instructions so I just replaced the springs and found them later online later with a bunch of torque specs should I go back through and retorque all the bolts.
3 Does the rod end of the Panhard bar go on the drivers or passengers side?
4. the rod end doesn't seem to want to fit either side should i have to bend the pan hard brackets to make the rod end fit?
I also have LCA and relocation bracket coming in the mail I was told that I would nit be able to relocate the sway bars for a 15x10 with out heavy modifying the LCA bracket is that true?
Thanks for the help
Joe
BMR Tech 2
Active Member
1. The rear SP012 are the right springs. They're the same rear springs as our standard lowering springs.
2. I would absolutely go back and retorque everything. Here is a link to our installation instructions, they include our torque specs. If for whatever reason you don't end up with instructions, we have them all on our site.
http://bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/SP068.pdf
3. Install the PHR with the rod end on the axle, and the poly bushing on the chassis.
4. Sometimes the PHR will fit very tightly in the brackets. I've had to bend them a couple times on different cars to get them to open enough to accept a PHR.
The sway bar relocation kit will work with our LCA relocation brackets without an issue.
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Thrust angle.... I see Kelly mention it, what exactly is it? He says you need to have adj lower control arms to make corrections. What is it & how does one make adjustments. And what causes bad thrust angle?
Thanks
Thanks
BMR Tech 2
Active Member
Thrust angle is the angle of your rear axle relative to the front axle. It can be corrected with adjustable LCAs because you can set one side longer or shorter than the other and to get the rear axle parallel with the front axle. It can be caused by tweaked axle tubes or adj. LCAs not set properly.
Does the thrust angle get Magnafied by relocation brackets? Say going from the top hole, moving the lower control arms to the lowest (3rd) hole?
BMR Tech 2
Active Member
Moving the arm up or down in the brackets will not change the thrust angle. Only the fore/aft location of the bracket will change the angle. The best thing to do is to get the car on a drive on lift, install the brackets, and put the LCA in the stock position hole. Once you do that, measure the LCA from bolt to bolt, then measure from the bolt hole you're going to use to the LCA front bolt. If those numbers match, you're good to go. IF they don't match, you can loosen the bracket, move it fore or aft, then tighten it down. If you have adjustable arms, you can just set them up until they match. Repeat for the other side, and make sure both sides have the same length.
My car is 2011 A6 in the end I will be running 150 shot assumable around 600 rwhp
So I will have installed by this weekend
SP068
PHR013
TCA032
CAB005
my plan is to order UCA and Mount and struts and shocks next.
what is gonna be the most benifical next purchase? and with my setup will I benefit from the additional cost of the viking shocks as opposed to strange singles? I am not afraid to spend money if it is warranted.
Thanks again for the help this thread is amazing!
So I will have installed by this weekend
SP068
PHR013
TCA032
CAB005
my plan is to order UCA and Mount and struts and shocks next.
what is gonna be the most benifical next purchase? and with my setup will I benefit from the additional cost of the viking shocks as opposed to strange singles? I am not afraid to spend money if it is warranted.
Thanks again for the help this thread is amazing!
My car is dropped with the sport line springs ,what hole should I use on the relocating bracket ? Top , middle , bottom ?
BMR Tech 2
Active Member
Are you asking what will be better for you, the UCA/UCM combo or the shocks and struts? Or are you asking what to get after the UCA/UCM and shocks/struts?
Start with the middle hole and see how that works for you. You may also want to try the lower hole to see which works best for you/which one you like better.
Sorry for the confusion. I was asking what would be a more beneficial next step shock and struts or UCA and mount. Also I was wondering if it is worth twice the cost to go with viking rears over the Strange Adjustable if I have an Automatic.
On another not I got my lower control arms and Relocation brackets installed wow its hitting the tires hard now I am on the middle hole I'm hoping this translates to a better than dismal 2.1 60ft i will be on street tire for a while because I'm balling on a budget.
On another not I got my lower control arms and Relocation brackets installed wow its hitting the tires hard now I am on the middle hole I'm hoping this translates to a better than dismal 2.1 60ft i will be on street tire for a while because I'm balling on a budget.
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i sent a pm to kelly, not knowing this thread existed. i haven't heard back from him so i'm going to try here in more detail.
i have a 2011 GT. the rear end setup is giving me grief:
SP009 Springs
TCA019 Lower Control Arms
UCM002 Upper Control Arm Mount
UTCA027 Upper Control Arm Mount
CAB005 Control Arm Relocation Brackets
PHR006 Panhard Rod
PHR007 Upper Panhard Rod Support
Eibach pro-damper shocks/struts and adjustable sway bars
3" axle exchange aluminum driveshaft
this is a daily street driven car, no real racing. it's usually just me in the car, and i carry a full size spare (oem brembo track pack wheel).
at first things were okay for the first few months, but then the rear springs have really settled, so much so i am hitting the (uncut) stock bumpstops hard and frequently.
in addition, because of all this settling i need to readjust the panhard bar because the diff is now out of alignment.
both of my rear shocks are now blown, but i suspect was something bad with them beforehand, as they were in the car for almost 4 years before the bmr parts went in, but they only started leaking now.
the UCA is hitting the underside of the body on the really bad roads. there is a dent in the sheetmetal where it's made contact.
pinion angle is set correctly.
all of the above were discovered when i went to another shop for inspection... where did i go wrong?
i have a 2011 GT. the rear end setup is giving me grief:
SP009 Springs
TCA019 Lower Control Arms
UCM002 Upper Control Arm Mount
UTCA027 Upper Control Arm Mount
CAB005 Control Arm Relocation Brackets
PHR006 Panhard Rod
PHR007 Upper Panhard Rod Support
Eibach pro-damper shocks/struts and adjustable sway bars
3" axle exchange aluminum driveshaft
this is a daily street driven car, no real racing. it's usually just me in the car, and i carry a full size spare (oem brembo track pack wheel).
at first things were okay for the first few months, but then the rear springs have really settled, so much so i am hitting the (uncut) stock bumpstops hard and frequently.
in addition, because of all this settling i need to readjust the panhard bar because the diff is now out of alignment.
both of my rear shocks are now blown, but i suspect was something bad with them beforehand, as they were in the car for almost 4 years before the bmr parts went in, but they only started leaking now.
the UCA is hitting the underside of the body on the really bad roads. there is a dent in the sheetmetal where it's made contact.
pinion angle is set correctly.
all of the above were discovered when i went to another shop for inspection... where did i go wrong?
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BMR Tech 2
Active Member
They're both going to be fairly equal, so it's really up to you. (Between UCA/UCM or rear shocks). I would absolutely go with the viking rears over the strange. Because they're double adjustable, they allow you to get the suspension dialed in a lot better.
Cut the top nub off the bumpstops. That will prevent you from hitting them over bumps. It's common practice when lowering a car if you don't replace the BS with a set that are lower.
It's not uncommon for shocks of that age to leak, especially if they've got some miles on them.
The UTCA027 is designed for 05-10 Mustangs, using the UCM001 with a 9" rear end swap. It's not designed for 11-14 running UCM002 or the stock 8.8 rear end. You would need UTCA032 for a stock 8.8, 11-14 Mustang. You can see how different the bushings are, and the angle at which the Y piece mounts to the diff bushing.
UTCA027
UTCA032
sorry i got trigger happy when cut/pasting. i am running a UTCA032.
the shocks had only 31k miles on them... sigh. i don't have perfect california roads where i'm from, but it's not bomb cratered like in new york. seeing how these died and eibach won't warranty them, what would you recommend? everything i read seems to lean towards koni str.t.
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