Suspension Tech: Bring It!

robrbn

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Yes, most of our customers choose to run the LCA brackets in the middle hole. The lowest setting is pretty aggressive for street use and street tires. Definitely something thats more for the track.

Am I correct with the UCA in the top hole of the mount?
 

Epic Fail

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Are adjustable front sway bar end links going to be more or less useful on a air ride suspension? My entire rear end suspension is BMR, and I'm very happy with it. It seems to have really shined now that I've switched to bags (oddly IMO). But wondering if adjustable end links would help me dial in anything better?

Money better spent elsewhere?
 

1quick

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currently I have bmr lower control arms non adjustable, upper mount and control arm, pan hard rod, and the front sway removed, the car hooks pretty well but I had a little trouble in cooler temps at the track last fall, the car is an auto and I spray a 100 shot out of the hole, I just ordered a 4c converter, what should my next steps suspension wise be what will be the best bang for the buck
 

BMR Tech 2

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Are adjustable front sway bar end links going to be more or less useful on a air ride suspension? My entire rear end suspension is BMR, and I'm very happy with it. It seems to have really shined now that I've switched to bags (oddly IMO). But wondering if adjustable end links would help me dial in anything better?

Money better spent elsewhere?

They will allow you set your bar back to parallel, which allows the bar to work better. Definitely something to consider if you have a set height you usually drive the car at. If you're constantly adjusting your regular driving height, you'll have to adjust the links frequently.

currently I have bmr lower control arms non adjustable, upper mount and control arm, pan hard rod, and the front sway removed, the car hooks pretty well but I had a little trouble in cooler temps at the track last fall, the car is an auto and I spray a 100 shot out of the hole, I just ordered a 4c converter, what should my next steps suspension wise be what will be the best bang for the buck

Is your car lowered or stock ride height?
 

redline5.0

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Yes, most of our customers choose to run the LCA brackets in the middle hole. The lowest setting is pretty aggressive for street use and street tires. Definitely something thats more for the track.

What do you mean the lowest setting is pretty aggressive for street use? If I'm running hoosiers on the street can I get by with the lowest or still use the middle.
 

BMR Tech 2

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What do you mean the lowest setting is pretty aggressive for street use? If I'm running hoosiers on the street can I get by with the lowest or still use the middle.

Too aggressive meaning too much antisquat and too short of an instant center. You might be able to get away with it, but the only way to know for sure is to try it for yourself.
 

hips14gt

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I am looking into a set of caster camber plates for my 14 GT with Strange adj struts and your BMR drag springs , Kelly speced out my set up and am running the GT500 strut mounts and 05-10 struts and cannot get the front end in spec , What ones do you recommend ?? Thanks !!
 

BMR Tech 2

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I am looking into a set of caster camber plates for my 14 GT with Strange adj struts and your BMR drag springs , Kelly speced out my set up and am running the GT500 strut mounts and 05-10 struts and cannot get the front end in spec , What ones do you recommend ?? Thanks !!

Can you post a pic of your alignment sheet?
 

The Beast 2014

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My 14 GT is a daily driver and an occasional 1/4 mile car. I haven't taken it on a road course but I might do it once or twice this year. I have it lowered but was thinking of doing shocks and struts this spring. Given the fact I daily drive the car is the extra money for adjustable shocks and struts worth the money? I have a big build list to do this year and I am trying to prioritize spending.
 

BMR Tech 2

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Will we ever see Caster Camber plates from BMR?

We have a couple designs in the works right now. We're hoping to launch them in the next couple months.

My 14 GT is a daily driver and an occasional 1/4 mile car. I haven't taken it on a road course but I might do it once or twice this year. I have it lowered but was thinking of doing shocks and struts this spring. Given the fact I daily drive the car is the extra money for adjustable shocks and struts worth the money? I have a big build list to do this year and I am trying to prioritize spending.

Honestly, I would go with a set of Koni Yellows. The adjustability will be a great thing to have at the track, plus Koni has a lifetime warranty so you don't need to worry about tearing up your shocks on the street. Just wait until the Shock Value sale and pick them up.

My car is stock height I don't plan to lower it

Get a set of Viking double adjustable rear shocks, and drop that UCA to the lower hole on the mount if you haven't already.
 

Holovacko

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I have Strange single adjustable all around, using the bottom hole on lower brackets, upper hole on upper... You think it will be quicker using lower hole on upper?.. On M/T Pro's.. Auto... Roush rear springs, 1" lower, drag springs in front
 

1quick

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Get a set of Viking double adjustable rear shocks, and drop that UCA to the lower hole on the mount if you haven't already.

the upper control arm mount is in the bottom hole already, just a recap I have the upper mount and upper non adjustable control arm, lower non adjustable control arms, non adjustable pan hard rod and no front sway bar, im going to order the viking rear shocks where would you recommend me start with them as far as adjustment, im also on et street pro's and the car is an auto
 

BMR Tech 2

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Start around 7/8C 9/10R and see where that gets you. You will likely have to do a little experimentation to see what shock settings work the best for you.
 
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ShelbyGT5HUN

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BMR,

I have a 2010 GT500 (pulley and tune) with Eibach Pro Kit Springs, adj pan hard, LCA, BMR lower control arm relo brackets (soon to be installed). I HATE the ride, and I have NO traction.

It feels like someone welded the shock's piston rods to the body, there is no travel, and under hard acceleration, the rear end feels like it is so stiff that bumps and expansion joints in the road make the tires spin due to how stiff the springs are. Honestly, I feel like Eibach put no testing into these springs, because I can't imagine anyone being happy with how the car reacts. The ride is so over the top stiff, that I think it makes the car handle and ride worse! The only benefit I noticed is that, under acceleration, the right rear of the car doesn't squat nearly as much as it did on the stock spring. The stock spring was overwhelmed, in my opinion, it felt like it was bottoming out. At a curb weight of 4160lbs (full tank of gas and driver), I won't be pushing this car hard in the corners, it is just too heavy for that. However, I do like driving 7/10ths of the limit around turns.

I am looking at your SP075 Drag Spring Kit. I want a softer ride than I have now, and I want more weight transfer. In the description of the SP075, it says "for the hardcore drag crowd". I am not going to the track often, if at all. I do all my driving on the street. However, I am considering a drag radial for this year.

My concerns are:

1) How will the handling be affected with these springs, compared to the stock springs? I don't want it worse than stock.

2) Are there any negative handling characteristics of these springs for use on the street? Stable at high speeds (80-140)?

3) I really want some compliance in the springs, to make daily driving better, yet still lower the car, are the SP075s the right choice?

4) Do you suggest a rear shock upgrade as mandatory, or will the springs work with the stock shocks?

Thanks!
 
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