Suspension Tech: Bring It!

[walt6076]

Both tires are spinning on the burnout, and throwing rubber smoke equally. I will make the adjustments and report the results. Can you be more specific about the bearings? Are you talking about single/double rod ends on the LCA? On the UCA?

 

[GregsGT500]

BMT Tech; I have a 2011 GT500 SVTPP. Other that street performance driving I also track the car a few times per year on Cali road courses such as Buttonwillow and Willow Springs. For me the SVTPP suspension sits too tall specially when I swap to the 18s I use on the track. But, overall the handling is pretty descent on road courses even though it looks like an SUV with the 18s. I'm thinking your SP072 would work good for me. Koni yellows are currently 25% off. Are they a good combo with your SP072? Do I really need all the other stuff (ie relocation bkts, sway bars, etc.) you recommended? I'm on a budget. After springs/shocks (and I already have a camber plates) what would be the order of all the other items to get for best bang for the buck. Also, speaking of budget, can I get away with just installing the SP072 springs and use the stock Tokico shocks for now? Do they work ok with the lowered suspension? Thanks!

Greg

 

[dd69a]

Is there rubbing issues when using lower controll arm brackets with sway bar relocation brackets. I've heard there are with some brands. Wanted to run 15 inch wheels on bmr lowering springs.

 

[BMR Tech]

Both tires are spinning on the burnout, and throwing rubber smoke equally. I will make the adjustments and report the results. Can you be more specific about the bearings? Are you talking about single/double rod ends on the LCA? On the UCA?

Anywhere there is a pivot point.

BMT Tech; I have a 2011 GT500 SVTPP. Other that street performance driving I also track the car a few times per year on Cali road courses such as Buttonwillow and Willow Springs. For me the SVTPP suspension sits too tall specially when I swap to the 18s I use on the track. But, overall the handling is pretty descent on road courses even though it looks like an SUV with the 18s. I'm thinking your SP072 would work good for me. Koni yellows are currently 25% off. Are they a good combo with your SP072? Do I really need all the other stuff (ie relocation bkts, sway bars, etc.) you recommended? I'm on a budget. After springs/shocks (and I already have a camber plates) what would be the order of all the other items to get for best bang for the buck. Also, speaking of budget, can I get away with just installing the SP072 springs and use the stock Tokico shocks for now? Do they work ok with the lowered suspension? Thanks!

Greg

I definitely recommend the SP072. I think you will love them, honestly.

Yes, they will work great with the Tokicos. I actually designed them with Koni's...and planned for the majority of the users to pair our handling springs with Koni Yellows, of the Bilsteins.

I would do, in order:

SP072
PHR006 Panhard Bar
Konis
CAB005 Relo Brackets
TCA021 LCA
SB041
SB042
WL006 Watts Link

You will love it.

Is there rubbing issues when using lower controll arm brackets with sway bar relocation brackets. I've heard there are with some brands. Wanted to run 15 inch wheels on bmr lowering springs.

Sometimes. If you runt he stock sway bar, it should not be an issue....but will be close though! If you do have contact, then I will be here to assist.

 

[hips14gt]

Kelly , getting ready to put the new springs and strut -shock combo on car that I ordered from you last week , quick question for you or anybody , there is an arrow and notch on the GT 500 strut mounts , which way does that face in the car ??

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

Those arrows face out. But on a 1-1.5" drop if you face those arrows in on both sides you'll get a nice 1-1.5 degree+ of camber and possibly not need camber bolts.

 

[GregsGT500]

Regarding the SP072 springs they are about 10% stiffer than my '11 GT500 SVTPP stock springs. Will they "feel" stiffer on the street? It's pretty stiff already. Thanks for the advice!
Greg

 

[scotmach]

Those arrows face in. But on a 1-1.5" drop if you face those arrows out on both sides you'll get a nice 1-1.5 degree+ of camber and possibly not need camber bolts.

You've got it backwards.

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

You've got it backwards.

Haha, good catch. Edited.

 

[jsip]

Posting some of my thoughts on my new suspension setup now that I gave her some hell today.

Setup:
Eibach Pro (1", 1.5")
BMR Upper Adj
BMR Upper Mount
BMR Lower non-adj
BMR Relocators (middle hole, street tires)
BMR Panhard Adj

Car definitely feels more connected to the road, more stout around turns, less body roll, less squat, less brake dive. Overall I am loving how she handles now at low and high speeds (expressway). I do notice more gear whine about 65-70mph with my 3.73s (track pack) only on acceleration but disappears 70+. From all of my reading I expected this exact behavior. NVH is increased as you can hear the driveline, clutch engagement, the MT82 typical clunks - mostly during clutch action and riding a gear and tapping the accelerator. Nothing that wasn't there before, just more pronounced. A fine tradeoff in a little bit of comfort for performance, IMO. Nothing my Borla ATAKs can't get rid of with a heavy right foot

My only gripe is the relo brackets so far. Them suckers are TIGHT. Going on the vehicle they were fine, snug like they should be without being a hassle, but trying to change the hole configuration at the rear of the lower LCA. Holy cow, lol. I had issues getting the BMR lowers into position in the brackets fully greased up as the fitment is super tight. It's fine since the construction is hardcore but trying to change the hole config is proving to be an arduous task on jackstands. Tried today only to have it not budge after removing the LCA bolt, then the rear shifted backwards by about a half inch and to get it back into place I needed to use straps to pull the rear end forward again just to get it back in the middle hole haha!

I have learned my lesson of working on the floor. I will need to hit the friend's dealer after hours and get her up on a rack with a pole jack to relieve some hanging tension to help me slide the control arm up a hole.

Not complaining about how snug of a fit it is - I prefer that - but man, on the ground, forget it ha! Was much easier going in the first time since I didn't snug everything up until it was all in place. The way I see it if I nuke my car the BMR suspension will be the only parts not completely obliterated by the blast.

 

[BMR Tech]

LOL! Awesome review!

Just a word of advice, when trying to change around your LCA positions, it helps if you loosen the other bolts on the brackets too.

Enjoy your parts, and thanks for choosing BMR!

 

[BMR Tech]

LOL! Awesome review!

Just a word of advice, when trying to change around your LCA positions, it helps if you loosen the other bolts on the brackets too.

Enjoy your parts, and thanks for choosing BMR!

 

[jsip]

Yeah I'll have to get on that this weekend if it's not raining. I don't know why I continue to try to do that stuff on the floor when my bud's dealer is 5 minutes away and after hours in an empty shop is fun

If I win the lottery I'm buying a damn lift for my garage (pending confirmation from the wife: ALWAYS CONFIRM WITH WIFE).

 

[walt6076]

You're the expert and I will follow your advice for my next testing day at the track. But, I'm cursed with curiosity and a desire to understand what I’m trying to achieve.

I completely understand the impact of lowering the LCA to the bottom hole: Increasing the angle of the LCA relative to the ground trades off a little forward force on the body to increase a little downward force on the tires.

The softer front setting at 2 would seem to encourage the front of the car lift easier and transfer more weight to the rear. That’s good for traction and makes sense.

But if more weight transfer is the goal I would tend to think at the rear I want a softer compression setting and a hard rebound setting to let the rear end of the car settle down easier and then return to normal slowly. But 10C/5R would do just the opposite, right?

If you don’t mind taking the time to explain the goal and how the settings contribute to the launch it would be a kindness.

 

[noldevin]

I just got everything installed last weekend and wanted to give my feedback so far as well.

I installed:
BMR handling springs
Koni Yellows with GT500 mounts (inverted)
BMR Poly adjustable panhard bar
BMR Poly adjustable UCA and mount (upper hole)
BMR relo brackets (middle hole)
Already had the non adjustable poly LCAs.

Installation wasn't bad at all. BMR gives easy to follow directions with great pictures.

I have to say, the suspension is whisper quiet even with the stiffer bushings. We made sure to torque everything to spec and I used the positions Kelly advised me to. The Konis are at about a quarter turn from full soft, I increased them a little to dampen some oscillation I was getting in slow traffic. The ride is smooth, planted, and not at all harsh. The car rides flatter, especially under braking and hard acceleration, and settles into a turn much sooner.
Now I just need to figure out the best settings for me on the Koni shocks.

So far I'm loving it and the car looks better with the 1.5" drop!

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

Sounds like an epic set-up.

 

[BMR Tech]

You're the expert and I will follow your advice for my next testing day at the track. But, I'm cursed with curiosity and a desire to understand what I’m trying to achieve.

I completely understand the impact of lowering the LCA to the bottom hole: Increasing the angle of the LCA relative to the ground trades off a little forward force on the body to increase a little downward force on the tires.

The softer front setting at 2 would seem to encourage the front of the car lift easier and transfer more weight to the rear. That’s good for traction and makes sense.

But if more weight transfer is the goal I would tend to think at the rear I want a softer compression setting and a hard rebound setting to let the rear end of the car settle down easier and then return to normal slowly. But 10C/5R would do just the opposite, right?

If you don’t mind taking the time to explain the goal and how the settings contribute to the launch it would be a kindness.

First and foremost, the strut and shock settings are hurting you. I know you said I recommended them, but there must have been some confusion. I never recommend those settings you are running, for track. Those are exactly the settings I recommend for the street, like exactly.

Typically, from my experiences, the Strange Struts work the best between 0 and 3. Yes, this promotes the front to come up.

On the rear, I typically always recommend people start off in the 4-7C / 7-11R range if they are not taking advantage of the AS the parts give them. If they run a little more AS, I like to start them off in the 9-11C / 4-7R range.

Here is how I like to start them off, and why. The higher the C, the harder it is to compress. The higher the R, the harder it is to extend.

So that said, if you have a car that squats....than there are two approaches to take. 1st is, stiffen the C to reduce the squat and adjust R according. 2nd is, concentrate on the R to keep the car from coming up to quick and unloading. If you look at most shock instructions, they will tell you to start at like 4C/12R for a drag car. Well, the problem is, the average drag racer has a car that squats like crazy....so those settings will help keep the car "down" and not remove load to the tire when going from C to R. The approach I take to start, is "adjust for the opposite" - so, if the car squats, concentrate on the Rebound so the car doesn't unload. Think of the saying, "what goes up must come down"....and remember, if a car squats, it has to come up. If it rises (alot of AS) then it has to come down. Many times with a lot of AS, you will see a car bite REALLY hard on the hit, then unload and spin the tires when the car falls.

So that said, try the settings I said and lets go from there. Some stick cars like alot of AS, some don't. The good news is, you have good dampers out back to dial it in....and you have a bias ply tire, so a stick and bias ply can get away with more AS.

Oh and lastly....the reason I like to soften up the front when adding AS on a stick car is because if the front doesnt come up quickly, the car will just spin the tires with more AS. Think of it like a seesaw. If the back rises on the hit, it tries forcing the front down - then we run into the "what goes up must come down" vice versa.... The goal I have for stick cars on a bias ply is for the back to come up and the front to come up - keeping the car more "parallel".

I just got everything installed last weekend and wanted to give my feedback so far as well.

I installed:
BMR handling springs
Koni Yellows with GT500 mounts (inverted)
BMR Poly adjustable panhard bar
BMR Poly adjustable UCA and mount (upper hole)
BMR relo brackets (middle hole)
Already had the non adjustable poly LCAs.

Installation wasn't bad at all. BMR gives easy to follow directions with great pictures.

I have to say, the suspension is whisper quiet even with the stiffer bushings. We made sure to torque everything to spec and I used the positions Kelly advised me to. The Konis are at about a quarter turn from full soft, I increased them a little to dampen some oscillation I was getting in slow traffic. The ride is smooth, planted, and not at all harsh. The car rides flatter, especially under braking and hard acceleration, and settles into a turn much sooner.
Now I just need to figure out the best settings for me on the Koni shocks.

So far I'm loving it and the car looks better with the 1.5" drop!

Good stuff!

On that set-up I like to go about 50% stiff up front, and about 25% stiff out back, for street use. Try it out and let me know how you like it. Alot of my customers will do like 25% stiff up front, and full loose out back. I think it's too jittery like that, personally.

 

[cjd223]

My car sits way too high in the rear after installing some Nitto 555R 305/45-18 tires. I would like to lower it about 1 1/2". Suggestions?

 

[BMR Tech]

Yep!

These are what you want:

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...essionid=8430bd508c878ecb4020515d74788193d636

 

[cjd223]

Are they somewhat "soft"? Looking for weight transfer.