Self ported blower pic's and numbers

[ViciousJay]

At the drag stip you are going WOT, and it is sealed off anyway. On the roadcourse you need to modulate the throttle. I can't think of a situation where a sealed bypass would be a benefit - ever.

thats what i was telling vulture. Steggy desgned the plate to bleed boost off not contain it 100% of the time

 

[RussZTT]

If that is the case, where are the plates covering it up that Stegy's doing?

 

[vulture]

Yeah , i mentioned in the other post , air does bleed though . It really isnt covered enough. And i agreed with not porting where the rotors go , i just felt a good polish could help. Ive driven it around lately. Pulls like a maniac all the way to redline, no boost drop. I still gotta dyno though.

 

[Posi]

Cool Vulture keep us posted!:beer:

And not having a bypass is flat out wrong!:nonono: Sooner or later you're going to have to let off of the throttle and when you do:uh oh:

 

[RussZTT]

So Posi, sounds like your doing right, covering up that entire area besides the valve area. While your there, you should make a few of them and sell them. (hint hint)

 

[ViciousJay]

So Posi, sounds like your doing right, covering up that entire area besides the valve area. While your there, you should make a few of them and sell them. (hint hint)

steggy is doing it right as well but they only doing two ends and leaving room for there to be boost bleed off still... i saw the IAT2's were around 107 which is pretty good but id like to see further data cometime summer when its frickin boiling outside then we'll see if adding that plate is ok

 

[Posi]

I have no urge to do these for money. Smelling aluminum every day isn't for me. Damn stuff will give me nose bleeds after a while.

 

[moddedmystic]

You can change the rotor phase (timing) by milling a little off the drive gears, that'll give you a little more too.

 

[ViciousJay]

You can change the rotor phase (timing) by milling a little off the drive gears, that'll give you a little more too.

not sureif thats a good idea... then the rotors will shift back and forth and to me thats not a good idea

 

[Posi]

You can change the rotor phase (timing) by milling a little off the drive gears, that'll give you a little more too.

Why? Explain.:shrug:

 

[CobraBob]

That sounds like a bad idea to me. Mill the drive gears?

 

[Posi]

You can change the rotor phase (timing) by milling a little off the drive gears, that'll give you a little more too.

:idea:Okay there's three things I won't mess with. Unless I had specific instructions and numbers to go off of. Even then I don't see how. You would have to take one drive gear and mill some off of every tooth on it(actually not mill, set the gear up in a "harig" with a custom dressed grinding wheel on a surface grinder. Anybody understand that:lol::rockon:?). Then to do it "correctly" weld whatever you took off and recut the other side of the same tooth to keep proper thickness. At least that's the way I see it. If you didn't then it would be really sloppy?

 

[moddedmystic]

That sounds like a bad idea to me. Mill the drive gears?

A lot of pro shops that rebuild blowers do it, theres a supercharer rebuilding book that goes more into detail about it. It tightens up the clearance between rotors so to speak by changing the rotor timing giving you a little more squeeze.

 

[CobraBob]

How much is a "little more squeeze"? Any idea?

 

[Posi]

I don't know how much squeeze you need with the Eaton. The reason I say this is if you're holding the plate the rotors are attached to and have it under running water if you spin the rotors by hand you'll shoot water probably 6' to 8'. That's just by hand let alone under power.

 

[moddedmystic]

How much is a "little more squeeze"? Any idea?

I'm not sure. You could call around, I'm sure there's a shop that could answer that for you.

 

[moddedmystic]

I don't know how much squeeze you need with the Eaton. The reason I say this is if you're holding the plate the rotors are attached to and have it under running water if you spin the rotors by hand you'll shoot water probably 6' to 8'. That's just by hand let alone under power.

Ya the reason I brought it up was in an earlier post you or somebody else asked what else could be done to get more out of the eaton. :beer:

 

[Posi]

Ya the reason I brought it up was in an earlier post you or somebody else asked what else could be done to get more out of the eaton. :beer:

Thanks for the hint. Now if someone knows exactly what to do and why then I might look into it. Then if they learned it from Steig.'s blower I won't do it anyways. I've said from the beginning I'm not copying his.:thumbsup:

 

[moddedmystic]

People have been doing this to 6-71's and such long before eatons were even around. When I get home I'll find the name of the book and let you know the title.

 

[Posi]

Thanks Modded