Remote Oil Cooler installed and pics of my thermostat bypass setup for track use

[pkwest]

I installed a remote oil cooler this weekend. I want to thank Dave at Evans for all the technical help and information. I also should thank everyone who posted here that I got ideas from.

Parts list:
1) Evans remote oil filter adapter
1) Evans cobra oil cooler block adapter with their bypass deleted
1) Fluidine DB-30120 oil cooler 11x8x2
10' aeroquip -10 socketless hose
1) aeroquip 45deg -10 socketless fitting
1) aeroquip 90deg -10 socketless fitting
4) aeroquip stright -10 socketless fittings
1) 8" spal electric fan
4) 1/2 male pipe to -10 male fittings
Stainless Screen from Pegasus Racing I already had laying around

I swapped ends on the stock hose from the stock oil cooler to the tstat housing (the end that was connected to the stock oil cooler is now connected to the tstat housing. I cut off about 1.5" on the new tstat housing end and it actually lines up almost perfectly).

I wired the fan to the fog light wiring as others have done. I removed the foglights to supply air to the oil cooler.

Next to do is install my new cross over with a plugable bypass. I will make it easier to plug the bypass circuit for track use. I also bought an extra 1/2 of the thermostat housing and had the bypass welded shut. That will be swapped in and out removing the thermostat at the same time for track use.

 

[pkwest]

Just a heads up on the mocal -10 in line oil thermostat. I feel I wasted 100 bucks. With it installed (tried both of the options for plumbing with the same results) my oil pressure cold was 70 lbs at idle. When 180 degrees at idle it was 10 lbs and times it would kiss 0 lbs then come back to 10 lbs when just coming to a stop. I didn't like that one bit so I removed it. Now my idle pressure is 85 cold and at 180 degrees its 20 lbs and it sometimes will kiss 10 pounds and go back to 20 when just coming to a stop.

 

[Tractionless1]

Isn't there supposed to be clamps on the socketless? Are you using one on the inside? My buddy had a socketless blow off his oil cooler at the track and burn down half the car. Nice setup though.

 

[pkwest]

No clamps needed with push on hose. good to 200 psi

 

[SlowSVT]

Couple of suggestions.

Removing the cornering light to supply the cooler won't provide the volume of air needed to conduct heat away from the oil cooler effectively. I would remove the entire bezel and relocate the brake duct cooler pointing downward in front of the K-member air deflector which will receive high pressure. Extending the air deflector closer to the ground to prevent the air from bypassing the rad will increase the pressure in front of the K-member will increase the air pressure and will force more air into the rad and brake duct.

From what I can see the oil cooler is not sealed between the intake and exhaust side. Most of what little air is getting in there will just go around it seeking the path of least resistance. Some ducting shroud forcing the air thru and out the cooler would do a better job then just sealing around it.

The cooler is angled relative to the airflow is a major "no no". It should be mounted vertical relative to the incoming air stream to minimize airflow restriction. The area immediately in front of the fan is the only place that will have air passing thru it that will take advantage of the cooling surface available. Anything outside the fan aperture won't be very effective cooling the oil with this current set-up.

The screen used in the fender liner is very restrictive and will allow very little air to pass through it. If the area behind and below the cooler is open, is a good place to exhaust the air. Some ducting with a nice curve pushing the air downward in front of the fender liner would be a good place to exhaust the air. Kydex sheet plastic 1/16" thick is a good material for ducting. It can be bent sharp and gradual as needed. Port Plastic in Industry, CA carries it.

Off the top of my head I would say the oil cooler you are using is about 20% efficient with your current set-up. There is a better method integrating an oil cooler in a Cobra fender. I have experience conducting airflow studies to evaluate forced air and convection cooled systems used to cool telecommunications systems as will as CFD using FEA computer modeling tools so I have some experience here. You can PM me if you have any question.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Interesting setup. I think it would work pretty well on track, I suspect the oil cooler setup could be made more efficient, but I think it would do the job for now, depending on how fast the car is.

 

[keith89]

Is there a better place to mount an oil cooler? I'm doing research and planning out my setup now.

 

[racebronco2]

pkwest are you going to attend cocoa at willow springs this weekend. A couple of us will be there.
carlos

 

[pkwest]

Thanks for the Ideas. With this setup at willow springs my oil temp never got over 220 in 101 air temp. Even though my coolant reached a peak of 232 three times. The next day was 92 air temp and the oil didn't get over 210 when the coolant peaked at 220. I will work on sealing the inlet side and other suggestions. This is my daily driver so I have to make some compromises.

Good seeing you at the track Carlos.

[

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Is there a better place to mount an oil cooler? I'm doing research and planning out my setup now.

+1 (apologies for ZOMBIE)

 

[keith89]

Bringing back a really old thread.
I'm wondering how high you can mount the oil cooler. I will be doing a battery relocation shortly and was wondering if mounting the cooler that high would be ok or would I need a check valve to prevent oil from draining back and possibly creating air pockets.

 

[SlowSVT]

Not sure where you plan on mounting it after the battery get relocated. The bumper support makes an excellent location for mounting the oil cooler. Remove LH fog light bezel and fab some plastic duct work to the cooler (Kydex plastic sheet works well). Make sure it's rubber mounted. McMaster-Carr is a good source for hardware.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Bringing back a really old thread.
I'm wondering how high you can mount the oil cooler. I will be doing a battery relocation shortly and was wondering if mounting the cooler that high would be ok or would I need a check valve to prevent oil from draining back and possibly creating air pockets.

Where the battery used to be?
That's where you want to mount it? Please clarify exactly what your mount strategy is.
Under hood air pressure could be affected depending on how you are planning this mount.

The wheel well set up by the OP is also used by many 911 Porsche race cars, it works and does have sufficient air flow to be effective for engines in the 500rwhp range. If you are also using a large Canton road race pan.

A friend of mine did one of the very first(was part of the testing pilot) Evans cooling mod packages and ran this same set up minus the oil stat and had to tape up the oil cooler in cold weather to get the oil warmed up enough. This was obviously with the fan OFF.
The -10 oil stat is a bit restrictive, and is now a known issue, If I end up doing this I will run without it and just Gorilla tape up the cooler when not tracking.

 

[haskett]

Several things....

1. Putting the oil cooler in the engine compartment doesn't seem like a good idea. All of the heat that you extract from the oil is getting dumped back into the engine bay, much of which will be reabsorbed....

2. I'm no expert on air bubbles in the oil system, but I've taken apart my external oil parts enough to know that air gets into your system just by it sitting. My oil lines never empty enough oil when I disconnect them.

3. I don't have track time on my new system YET, but can tell you that with the largest Mocal cooler possible in the inner fender without tilting the cooler, my oil temps leaving the engine have yet to reach 200 degrees, which is the recommended min temp. So I second Jimmy's advice. Be careful not to go too large on the cooler, put a good gauge on the oil temp, and do what yo have to in order for the temps to be in range of effective oiling.

 

[DevilSun]

Not all thermostats are created equal. There are definitely two that I know of that are supposed to be full-flow thermostats - Canton (native -12AN ports) and Earls (native -10AN ports)

Personally, I wouldn't put the cooler in the engine compartment. I say either in the fenderwell or attached to the back of the bumper between the heat exchanger and the a/c core, I went with the latter of the two placement and am going to use a Canton/CM thermostat and remote filter.

 

[SlowSVT]

Where the battery used to be?
That's where you want to mount it? Please clarify exactly what your mount strategy is.
Under hood air pressure could be affected depending on how you are planning this mount.

The wheel well set up by the OP is also used by many 911 Porsche race cars, it works and does have sufficient air flow to be effective for engines in the 500rwhp range. If you are also using a large Canton road race pan.

A friend of mine did one of the very first(was part of the testing pilot) Evans cooling mod packages and ran this same set up minus the oil stat and had to tape up the oil cooler in cold weather to get the oil warmed up enough. This was obviously with the fan OFF.
The -10 oil stat is a bit restrictive, and is now a known issue, If I end up doing this I will run without it and just Gorilla tape up the cooler when not tracking.

Jimmy

The Mocal thermostat appears to be the least restrictive. It's shaped like an "H" with the thermostat in the middle. When it closes the oil flows directly thru each leg with minimal restrictions. There are "steps" on the casting that can be smoothed with a dremal and will present very little added restriction to the system. I use one on my airplane as well. Having looked at all the other thermostats I agree. They looked very restrictive and it's likely I may have foregone one since I live in Southern Kalifornia where I don't have to worry about over cooling the oil which is very bad for the engine (180 degrees is ideal). I use an AN-10 only because I have concerns about delays in priming the system at start-up with the use of an AN-12 lines and all the volume in those large lines. Along with my Fram racing oil filter adapter this is a real nice system. Can't show you any shots because it's not mounted on my car yet but I have already worked out the details.

Patrick Motorsports - OIL 12THER

 

[keith89]

I guess i'm just not liking the idea of the screen on the fender liner as my car is mainly street driven. Not sure if this should be a concern. Also, I have brake ducts on the car so fresh air down there will be minimal(OP removed fog lights)

I was thinking of mounting a cooler with a fan in the stock battery location and duct the exhaust air down into the fender. I was thinking of either partially isolating it from the engine compartment so it would suck in air from around the headlight and duct down into the fender or have it unshrouded from the engine compartment and duct the exaust into the fender.

 

[haskett]

I've driven hundreds of miles with no inner fender at all. Not ideal and I plan to fix, but it hasn't been an issue. My last inner fender got ripped away because some rivets pulled through. Next time I'll used screws with fender washers.

 

[SlowSVT]

I guess i'm just not liking the idea of the screen on the fender liner as my car is mainly street driven. Not sure if this should be a concern. Also, I have brake ducts on the car so fresh air down there will be minimal(OP removed fog lights)

I was thinking of mounting a cooler with a fan in the stock battery location and duct the exhaust air down into the fender. I was thinking of either partially isolating it from the engine compartment so it would suck in air from around the headlight and duct down into the fender or have it unshrouded from the engine compartment and duct the exaust into the fender.

No need to cut a screen in the fender liner (screens are horrid for airflow). Direct the air downward after the cooler mounted on the bumper support using an air duct.

 

[keith89]

No need to cut a screen in the fender liner (screens are horrid for airflow). Direct the air downward after the cooler mounted on the bumper support using an air duct.

ok. if that is enough, then i'll go this route. What about fresh intake air? i will not be removing my fog light and have a brake duct attached to the other inlet. Will there be enough incoming air?