I think you guys are comparing street cars to track cars, apples to oranges. Does he want a street car or a track car? To say a twinscrew or a turbo is going to beat a centri every time is just retarded. Just way to many varibles. If you pull up next to a car that you don't know and all you hear is the blower screaming, to think your going to spank him just because you have a PD/turbo is well "retarded".
Pro's and con's of a Kenny Bell -VS- F1A
- Thread starter VENOMIZED03
- Start date
all i'm saying is that for a street driven terminator, a kenne bell is better than a centrifugal, at the same boost level. and you can't tell me the torque doesn't play a factor. if the procharger is so much better than why was everybody taking them off ?? and belt slip was not the only reason people were removing them for kenne bell's or turbos. if you don't believe me, ask some of the previous procharger owners, i did. i was also interested in the F1A at one point. but after doing some research i decided the kenne bell was the better blower for me, and 90% of the people out there.
longrodLX said:
You're right. Boost at 2:11 is 22psi and boost is 19psi at 2:13. It didn't drop at all. It's not like this is common for positive displacement blowers at high boost or anything. :shrug: Don't get me wrong, I like the twin screw blowers. But they are not superior to centrifical blowers. It's not like these things showed up when the '03 cobra came out. They've been around for awhile.
How much is said kit? I may just start saving up after the ported blower... which is next month's project.-Chip- said:
collibr1 said:
The variables? Thats why I stated "a properly built and geared centri car will beat a pd car at the track." If you build both cars with the proper cams, intake, gears, tune, for the blower bieng ran , the centri will win (vs. a kb 2.2/2.4 or a whipple 140/2300). Now take a 5.0 whipple (size of blower, not for a 5.0 car) and you will probably be in the all out performance class of a centri. (You would also fit in with the outdated pro street crowd with that big a$$ blower sticking out of the hood! :dw: )
oke: As for the apples to oranges, you are right. If you want an easy setup that will perform well on the street go with apples (kb/whipple),If you want an unstoppable force at the track go with oranges (centri/turbo).
Last edited:
so a whipple or kenne bell doesn't perform well at the track ??mpe331lx said:The variables? Thats why I stated "a properly built and geared centri car will beat a pd car at the track." If you build both cars with the proper cams, intake, gears, tune, for the blower bieng ran , the centri will win (vs. a kb 2.2/2.4 or a whipple 140/2300). Now take a 5.0 whipple (size of blower, not for a 5.0 car) and you will probably be in the all out performance class of a centri. (You would also fit in with the outdated pro street crowd with that bag a$$ blower sticking out of the hood! :dw: )
If you want an unstoppable force at the track go with oranges (centri/turbo).
drohan8592 said:
I never said that they dont perform well. I am stating that an all out built kb wont perform as good as an all out centri/turbo car.
How many kb/or whipple 4.6's are in the 8s on blower alone? I dont even know if they have broken the 8s with a blower and spray yet. If it has been done, chime in and let me know.
Her ya go:4V Power Adder 1/4 ET:
1 . John Mihovetz (Accufab) - 6.83 @ 205.00 ( 2002 COUGAR TUBE CHASSIS, 4V 4.6, LENCO - TURBO )
2 . JR Granatelli - 7.27 @ 190.00 ( MUSTANG TUBE CHASSIS 5.4 4V LENCO - TURBO )
3 . John Mihovetz (Accufab) - 7.45 @ 187.00 ( 1996 MUSTANG TUBE CHASSIS, 4V 4.6, POWERGLIDE - TURBO )
4 . Randy Haywood - 7.97 @ 188.00 ( 4V 5.4 POWER GLIDE - TURBO )
5 . Tim Palmer - 8.30 @ 162.00 ( 1998 COBRA - TURBO )
6 . Dave King - 8.47 @ 160.85 ( 1997 COBRA POWER GLIDE - F2M )
7 . Bob Trinanes - 8.56 @ 170.00 ( COBRA - PAXTON, COG DRIVE, HOGAN INTAKE, SP )
8 . Aaron Archer - 8.57 @ 160.00 ( 2003 COBRA C4 - BLOWER )
9 . Joe Stewart - 8.70 @ 160.00 ( 1998 COBRA - PAXTON, COG DRIVE, HCI LOWER, SP )
10 . Reggie Burnette - 8.72 @ 159.00 ( 1997 COBRA - PAXTON, COG DRIVE, HCI LOWER, SP )
11 . John Mihovetz (Accufab) - 8.80 @ 156.00 ( 1993 MUSTANG COUPE, 4V 4.6, POWERGLIDE - BLOWER )
12 . Manny & Ozzie (HPP Racing) - 8.90 @ 155.00 ( 1999 COBRA GLIDE - TURBO )
13 . Mike Johnson - 9.00 @ ( 2000 GT - 4V MTR, F2M, COG DRIVE )
14 . Jim Hensler - 9.30 @ 150.34 ( 1997 COBRA - NX )
15 . Mark Van Meter - 9.30 @ 150.00 ( COBRA - BLOWER )
I have not seen any headliners like that with a blower ony kb/whipple.
The yellow strictly performance car driven by Richard Lelsz rode out to a 9.59 @ 143mph That was with a kb and spray (times from 03 wfc, probably better by now)
The lowend of a PD blower does'nt make it any better for getting off the line at the track, IDK where you got that idea. A centri is so much more smoother on launch, you can launch at a higher RPM w/ a centri which is right inline w/ it's powerband where it matters. The mid-range power of both blowers are comparable where the centri will just keep making more TQ and thus out accelerate the PD blower car. Unless you have slicks or DR's and a drag supension and a driveline to back up excessive high RPM launches w/ a PD car which I doubt many will have for the street, Your not at a great advantage at the starting line like you think.
The higher your able to launch the car w/ good traction the faster you can get through 1st and into 2nd. Since the revs drop very little between shifts w/ the cobra you've stayed in the high revs which is where the centri shines at (where the PD blower is running out of steam and becomes very inefficient due to heat soak).
The fact of the matter is a KB/Whipple car can not run w/ a centri or turbo in an acceleration contest due to the fact that they CAN NOT pump out the volume of air and efficiency that a centri or turbo can. There is no denying that. The only exception to this is a Top Fuel or Funny car, but they're besides the point and a totally different animal.
I think an F1A could hang w/ a turbo if it had just a sullivan or 01' intake manifold.
The higher your able to launch the car w/ good traction the faster you can get through 1st and into 2nd. Since the revs drop very little between shifts w/ the cobra you've stayed in the high revs which is where the centri shines at (where the PD blower is running out of steam and becomes very inefficient due to heat soak).
The fact of the matter is a KB/Whipple car can not run w/ a centri or turbo in an acceleration contest due to the fact that they CAN NOT pump out the volume of air and efficiency that a centri or turbo can. There is no denying that. The only exception to this is a Top Fuel or Funny car, but they're besides the point and a totally different animal.
I think an F1A could hang w/ a turbo if it had just a sullivan or 01' intake manifold.
Last edited:
SpookSVT said:
Now that's the stuff I like to hear!!!
I'm currently building a 4v and upgraded from a D1 to an F1A. I had nothing to back up the fact that it would be better for my combo, other than bigger must be better.....
I love it when you can have a thread that has 2 completly different point of views and it doesn't get personal. That's what these forums are all about!!!
simple truth
custom turbo kit bar none is the highest power option for a street type car.
the milder cams they want etc etc all lend themselfs towards combinations that can make rediculous power and still be totaly streetable.
i run 8s on pump gas in my 95 stang turbocharged.
custom turbo kit bar none is the highest power option for a street type car.
the milder cams they want etc etc all lend themselfs towards combinations that can make rediculous power and still be totaly streetable.
i run 8s on pump gas in my 95 stang turbocharged.
Ask these questions to yourself..
How much $$ do I want to spend?
How much power do I want?
Is this going to be primarily a track car or more of a street car I sometime take to the track?
Once you answer these questions, look at the options again. It should become much easier to decide.
How much $$ do I want to spend?
How much power do I want?
Is this going to be primarily a track car or more of a street car I sometime take to the track?
Once you answer these questions, look at the options again. It should become much easier to decide.
It also comes down to personal preference. The turbo cars are the obvious winner when it comes to ultimate power and streetability. However, after turning and racing my GN for many years, I don't want another turbo car. I'm not a nitrous guy, either, which leaves me with blowers. Once I crack tens with the ported Eaton, I'll decided between a 2.4 KB and Vortech/Paxton/ATI centrifugal. I'll likely at least try the centri, just to have experience with all of the various optoins.
good points by all
This is what made me fall for a cintri if i'm not mistaking this is an f1.
http://www.amaterial.org/kcgeek/20051007_KCIR/20051007_EA_14_2_131.wmv
Lets see a roots do this
http://www.amaterial.org/kcgeek/20051007_KCIR/20051007_EA_14_2_131.wmv
Lets see a roots do this
Last edited:
Has anyone tried a procharger/n20 setup??? Is it as safe (safe being a relative term) as a root/screw/n20 setup???
It'll hold up just as well as it would on the twin screw cars I'd think.
I think it would actually hold up a little better. When you shoot nitrous (dry kit) on the KB, the nitrous actually goes through the supercharger and there has been concern over the nitrous hitting the rotors.
I ran a 10.74 @130 Friday night with my F1A. 3,750 lbs with only a 3.73 gear on ET Drag Radials, through an Automatic. I like the Procharger, but they are just about impossible to consistantly run with a 6 rib. I just finished my custom cog drive and it drives on the street fine.
Oh Yeah - 1.63 60ft. leaving off foot brake.
Oh Yeah - 1.63 60ft. leaving off foot brake.
Last edited:
As Josh pointed out to me earlier, I don't think you will have any problems with your cog drive. When I do my KB, I will have an X-10 setup in addition to the Reichard Racing Manual tensioner. I bet my #1 bearing will be stressed even more than yours. Keep us updated on that thing, I am very interested.
What is your stall converter set at? Mine is at 4000-4400 w/ the transbrake, 2800 footbreak.
What is your stall converter set at? Mine is at 4000-4400 w/ the transbrake, 2800 footbreak.
50_Dave said:
exactly right, twin screws start to nose efficiency off at about 4500~ on. this is where centri blowers start making the most power. and a response to a later post, i dont know who told you an f1a head unit will only support 600+ hp......but they are dead wrong
Users who are viewing this thread
