Procharger F1C Cog System too much for a MMR 900

91svtcoupe

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A question I ran into over on corral...

Which way is correct?


Are you sure you have the thermostat in the correct way.... The brass colored nipple that sticks out one end has to face the engine to read the engine water temp... and then open. I wasn't sure what you ment by the spring facing the engine. Bob

in other words.....

I have this end on top here pointed towards the radiator? is this correct or wrong?

mil-16401_w.jpg
 

encasedmetal

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A question I ran into over on corral...

Which way is correct?




in other words.....

I have this end on top here pointed towards the radiator? is this correct or wrong?

mil-16401_w.jpg

I just put in a new tstat last week, and if we're using the same tstat housing, you should have put the tstat in spring first. meaning if you open the tstat housing and look inside you would see the bell/gasket side. Hope you're using an oem level tstat. a 160 or 170 ain't gonna cut it getting the engine to temp with a big procharger. I had to go to a 195 to get my car to run worth a damn without sitting for literally 20minutes to warm up.
 

91svtcoupe

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I just put in a new tstat last week, and if we're using the same tstat housing, you should have put the tstat in spring first. meaning if you open the tstat housing and look inside you would see the bell/gasket side. Hope you're using an oem level tstat. a 160 or 170 ain't gonna cut it getting the engine to temp with a big procharger. I had to go to a 195 to get my car to run worth a damn without sitting for literally 20minutes to warm up.

here is the thermostat housing I have:

2012-10-06153457-Copy.jpg


here is the thermostat I bought: Milodon 16401 - Thermostat, 180 Degree, High-Flow, Steel


Milodon 16401 - Milodon High-Flow Thermostats - Overview - SummitRacing.com


and if looking at my housing. If I were to take the short hose from the radiator to the thermostat housing (Front Section) you would see the pointed part of the thermostat (top part here)

mil-16401_w.jpg
 

91svtcoupe

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Well I think I got it cooled down. :)


I have searched about every car with a stock electric fan and after having a good junk yard that let me take several fans to try. I ended up with a Hyundai fan. It fits perfect with minor trimming and it blows decent. Not as much as the stock cobra fan but a lot better than the one I had. So after installing it last night I started it up tonight and she come on at the 200 degree mark (in the tune guess) and it cooled right back down to 190 degree mark, It idle fine for about 10 mins in the 190-195 range. soooooooo I think I got it.

I will continue to look for a stronger fan. But for now I will work on the tune and get the fan to turn on around 180 and hope for the best.

Thanks for the help......I will give it a good going over very soon and then head off to the dyno.
 
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91svtcoupe

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Scheduled my Dyno appointment for Tuesday so we shall see what happens or don't happen.

Few questions:

1) I drove the car around for about 20 mins the other day and it never ran over 204 in the aeroforce temp gauge while driving, however when I stopped it would cool down to 194? Any ideas on this?

2) Thought about putting a MMR High Performance Water pump on it? Is it really High Performance and how hard is the install?

3) What about a larger diameter water pump pulley? Would that spin the pump and make it cooler.

4) What would you say is the average slack in your cog belt?

Didn't really read anywhere in the instructions on how tight to get it?

Also I read somewhere that getting it too tight could hurt the blower?

Not really sure how to check it but I'm looking for any ideas.

Thanks
 

mtrsprt

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Scheduled my Dyno appointment for Tuesday so we shall see what happens or don't happen.

Few questions:

1) I drove the car around for about 20 mins the other day and it never ran over 204 in the aeroforce temp gauge while driving, however when I stopped it would cool down to 194? Any ideas on this?
You still have air in your cooling system. The cylinder heads in particular.

I have been trying for two days to get air out of mine........
 

encasedmetal

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You still have air in your cooling system. The cylinder heads in particular.

I have been trying for two days to get air out of mine........

you guys should really use a vacuum tool to get the air out of your coolant system. I hook mine up to the coolant tank and in less than 2 minutes have zero- and I mean zero air in the system. plus you don't have to **** with the coolant crossover cap.
 

91svtcoupe

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you guys should really use a vacuum tool to get the air out of your coolant system. I hook mine up to the coolant tank and in less than 2 minutes have zero- and I mean zero air in the system. plus you don't have to **** with the coolant crossover cap.

You really think that would be a possible issue? It really stayed cooled but just cooled down more when I stop and let it idle.

By the way I picked up the coolant crossover plug and it does great.
 

mtrsprt

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There doesn't seem to be any visible crossover on my Boss. Both heater hoses run along the intake. One goes to a nipple off the lower part of the intake about 3" away from the thermostat (inlet to heater core), the other just goes to the front top of the passenger side cylinder head.
 

Helomech74

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If you want a good non electric water pump, check out the EMP Stewart Components water pump for the modular engine. They run about 130 bucks and work very well, better build quality then OEM and have worked great in all of my applications.
 

91svtcoupe

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If you want a good non electric water pump, check out the EMP Stewart Components water pump for the modular engine. They run about 130 bucks and work very well, better build quality then OEM and have worked great in all of my applications.

x2- that's what I use.

Thanks I might look into that. Mine is fine, I just ran across a deal on a NEW MMR pump still in the box for $50 so I was thinking it might be worth it just to add it to my combo?

Question for both of you guys?

What Plugs would you recommend? and the Gap?
 

91svtcoupe

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Who said I would run out of fuel? The double in line pump would be a restriction.........well you were right.


I ran out at 5300 saw 14lbs of boost and 448 HP and torque was about the same.

I will install the aeromotive fuel system and go back soon I hope. If all goes as planned I should hit the 600 mark?
 

91svtcoupe

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What's your plan on the fuel system?

I have an Aeromtive tank (sumped), an A1000 pump ( I may go to just duel in line 255's) , Aeromotive filters before and after the pumps, 10 feed, 8 return, aftermarket fuel rails, Aeromotive regulator. I plan on keeping the 60's but I will be looking for 80lb injectors.

Plan is to run 10 into one side of rail. Loop around to the other rail.off that rail to regulator, then out of bottom of regulator to return tank?

That work you think?
 

Helomech74

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If you're going to run a big single pump, I'd look into a Magnafuel Protuner 750. They work well on the street and will support way more then you probably need. I've had issues with the A1000 before and vowed to never use another one. I'd run a -10 feed to a Y block, split to 2 -8 (1 for the back of each rail), then from the front of the rails run the 2 lines into the regulator, then a -8 or -10 line as a return from the bottom of the regulator. I found personally that when I matched the return line to the feed line in size, I had less issues with vapor lock when running a big single pump on the street. The Protuner 750 can also be mounted inside of a fuel cell as well, but you would need to get a little creative with the mounting. The 60lb injectors will be a restriction for sure and I wouldn't even bother going back to the tuner until you replace them with at least 80's (Personally I'd run even larger). What's your plans on fuel type? E85 at all?
 

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