Procharger F1C Cog System too much for a MMR 900

Helomech74

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I would rebuild it and go at it again. I know it gets expensive (I've done this a few times myself.) It's all a learning experience, unfortunately it can get pricey. Is the blue rod the only noticeable damage? Once you get that thing sorted out, it's going to be worth it.
 

91svtcoupe

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91svtcoupe

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I would rebuild it and go at it again. I know it gets expensive (I've done this a few times myself.) It's all a learning experience, unfortunately it can get pricey. Is the blue rod the only noticeable damage? Once you get that thing sorted out, it's going to be worth it.

Right now we know we need a new crank..the crank in the motor was already turned one time, so doing it again the builder said was really not an option with out a lot of machine work..Id be better probably just to get a new crank...

Rod I think is okay....but he said we would replace it just in case..

then check the cylinder walls..I think they are okay...and then the cost of reassembly and gaskets....
 

dwtjr3

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Man you hit 21psi at ~ 6200rpm, if you spin that thing to 7 you should see 23ish lbs

the car sounds like a animal, I honestly think I would hold on to it as is and rebuild it even if it does take a little while longer then you would like, you have so much work and money it to it now and the car is so clean it would be hard to let it go if it was my car haha

Even tho I do want your cams haha I would keep it as is if it was mine.
 

Helomech74

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So new/used crank around 400 bucks. I'm not sure what type of rods you're running, but usually singles can be had for under 80 bucks (unless it's a billet or aluminum rod). Some new main and rod bearings for around 150 bucks, head gaskets (vary by type and brand.) and of course machine work. Shouldn't be too bad if you do your own assembly work. I think with everything you have into that car (it's amazing looking by the way), I would just keep it all and do it again. Very unique car with a bad ass setup under the hood.
 

91svtcoupe

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So new/used crank around 400 bucks. I'm not sure what type of rods you're running, but usually singles can be had for under 80 bucks (unless it's a billet or aluminum rod). Some new main and rod bearings for around 150 bucks, head gaskets (vary by type and brand.) and of course machine work. Shouldn't be too bad if you do your own assembly work. I think with everything you have into that car (it's amazing looking by the way), I would just keep it all and do it again. Very unique car with a bad ass setup under the hood.

im running manley pistons...and rods...

A new forged crank costs $900 or more

And I think I would keep it too lol


yea don't want to go spending that much but we will see.....
 

dwtjr3

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Yeah man I know what you mean, it just sucks that this happened to you.

Did you say anything to the guy that tuned it? And did he offer you anything?
 

dwtjr3

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well its not really a place to blame anything on anybody...just a bad deal...i should have changed the oil........

Ok so that what you are thinking it was?

So do you think the tune was right once it was tuned but before it was tuned is what washed out the bearings?
 

ruthless

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Are you using the factory computer (non-COP style) to drive a COP setup with a conversion harness? If so, that is what caused your issue. That computer works different when it comes to charging the coil packs and just cant keep up.

I bet the coil packs where giving you a weak spark and washed down the engine with fuel.

There are two ways to go.
1. A Dizzy off of the cam cover.
2. Standalone computer.

Those are the only correct ways to build a car like this.

PM me if you have any questions. I can either get them answered or direct you to my shop.
 

CamCobra10

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Are you using the factory computer (non-COP style) to drive a COP setup with a conversion harness? If so, that is what caused your issue. That computer works different when it comes to charging the coil packs and just cant keep up.

I bet the coil packs where giving you a weak spark and washed down the engine with fuel.

There are two ways to go.
1. A Dizzy off of the cam cover.
2. Standalone computer.

Those are the only correct ways to build a car like this.

PM me if you have any questions. I can either get them answered or direct you to my shop.
That's the first I've ever heard of this being a cause, anyone else can chime in? I have the cop conv. W/harness running of my 96 cobra computer
 

Helomech74

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Are you using the factory computer (non-COP style) to drive a COP setup with a conversion harness? If so, that is what caused your issue. That computer works different when it comes to charging the coil packs and just cant keep up.

I bet the coil packs where giving you a weak spark and washed down the engine with fuel.

There are two ways to go.
1. A Dizzy off of the cam cover.
2. Standalone computer.

Those are the only correct ways to build a car like this.

PM me if you have any questions. I can either get them answered or direct you to my shop.

Not true at all. I run a 98 Cobra computer with a COP setup and SCT software on setup very similar (I was running an F2M) with boost levels in the 28-30psi range and no issues at all. I ran that setup for roughly 5 seasons, never had an issue with spark due to the COP conversion harness. I also run a street car with an F1R and the same setup and no issues at all. There was something else that caused the issue, but certainly not the COP conversion harness (Might have been some weak coils, but the harness and conversion aren't to blame here.)
 

ruthless

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Not true at all. I run a 98 Cobra computer with a COP setup and SCT software on setup very similar (I was running an F2M) with boost levels in the 28-30psi range and no issues at all. I ran that setup for roughly 5 seasons, never had an issue with spark due to the COP conversion harness. I also run a street car with an F1R and the same setup and no issues at all. There was something else that caused the issue, but certainly not the COP conversion harness (Might have been some weak coils, but the harness and conversion aren't to blame here.)

What else were you running to pull that off? The reason I ask is because that is getting up past what the 03-04 Cobra guys do with stock COP. Not saying its not possible but its living on the edge.

I am going back to my original post and saying those 2 options are going to be how all the shops are going to tell the OP to go.

I still dont think its weak coils. I think its because they are not getting enough voltage to get a good spark. (I am sure a fresh set of coils might cover up the issue.) We can discuss this all week on the net and not get anywhere. I am just saying if I was the OP, I would look into the ignition system because something is not 100%.
 
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Helomech74

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Not running anything else. It's just the COP conversion harness, new 03-04 Cobra coils and BR7EF plugs gapped at .27 I've ran this setup for awhile with no issues. Maybe it's the 03-04 Cobra ECU that's giving those guys issues, but this setup works perfectly fine with the 98 ECU.
 

encasedmetal

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Not running anything else. It's just the COP conversion harness, new 03-04 Cobra coils and BR7EF plugs gapped at .27 I've ran this setup for awhile with no issues. Maybe it's the 03-04 Cobra ECU that's giving those guys issues, but this setup works perfectly fine with the 98 ECU.

this. the 03/04 ecu doesn't have the resolution to keep up with high rpm. pretty commonly known I thought.
 

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