Paul's 2011 Coyote Build Thread
- Thread starter Paul.
- Start date
Huge improvement.
@Paul. I thought I read somewhere you were thinking of adding oil catch cans to this set up... did you - are you - will you?
If so - what did you end up with?
I would assume this rig would work fine on our year cars as the engine and blower are basically the same...
http://m.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-plug-n-play-catch-can-separator-15-whipple-css.html
If so - what did you end up with?
I would assume this rig would work fine on our year cars as the engine and blower are basically the same...
http://m.uprproducts.com/mustang-billet-plug-n-play-catch-can-separator-15-whipple-css.html
Loving the build thread man. Makes me wish i would have taken more pictures along the way so i could have made one worth reading through. Keep up the good work. Ps, cant believe the paint on the calipers are holding up. I went with powdercoating because i didnt think paint would.
The next round of upgrades is about to begin. With all the newfound power from the Whipple, I've been a little tentative to beat on the car because I'm afraid things are going to break. At the 1/2 mile races a few weeks ago, I overheated my factory clutch after pounding on it all day, so I knew it wasn't long for this world. At the dragstrip last month, I heard a horrible sound coming from the rearend in the burnout box which I assume was my rear differential hating life. (I have that sound on one of my GoPro videos) At the dragstrip I had to shift into 5th to get through the traps, even on my 29" tall Nittos. At the 1/2 mile, I was just barely below the limiter in 5th at 157 mph. Some longer gears were definitely in order. To that end, I've bought some stuff to fortify the drivetrain a bit. I'm hoping the factory trans lasts a while. This cost a few thousand bucks, but should do the trick for what I want the car to do for a while.
Here's the list of parts:
- DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
- McLeod Aluminum Flywheel
- McLeod Street Extreme Clutch
- McLeod Stainless Clutch Line w/Bleeder
- Wavetrac Differential
- FRPP 3.31 gears
- FRPP Front Hubs w/ ARP 3" Studs
- Spindle Nuts
- ARP 3" Rear Studs
- Open-ended Lug Nuts
I'm hoping to get all this stuff installed in the next month or so. I may be attending another private track day in February, and will be doing the 1/2 mile races again in March. If I make it to the dragstrip, I'll give it a shot on my Weld big 'n' littles and try to get into the low 11s. I'm also curious if the 3.31 gears will improve my fuel mileage at all. I'm getting 14.04 mpg average right now around town, but of course, driving like an asshole doesn't help. Second gear smashes never get old with the Whipple. It hooks and books.
Yay racecar stuff!
Paul.
Here's the list of parts:
- DSS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
- McLeod Aluminum Flywheel
- McLeod Street Extreme Clutch
- McLeod Stainless Clutch Line w/Bleeder
- Wavetrac Differential
- FRPP 3.31 gears
- FRPP Front Hubs w/ ARP 3" Studs
- Spindle Nuts
- ARP 3" Rear Studs
- Open-ended Lug Nuts
I'm hoping to get all this stuff installed in the next month or so. I may be attending another private track day in February, and will be doing the 1/2 mile races again in March. If I make it to the dragstrip, I'll give it a shot on my Weld big 'n' littles and try to get into the low 11s. I'm also curious if the 3.31 gears will improve my fuel mileage at all. I'm getting 14.04 mpg average right now around town, but of course, driving like an asshole doesn't help. Second gear smashes never get old with the Whipple. It hooks and books.
Yay racecar stuff!
Paul.
I haven't done catch cans yet as I've been focused on getting the drivetrain upgrades where they need to be. That setup looks like it might work, but I don't know how it would mount in the '11-'14 cars. I imagine it wouldn't be difficult to retrofit.
Thanks! The caliper still look like they did when I painted them years ago. Keep in mind, I used high-grade automotive paint, not rattle can garbage. The paint supplies cost me a couple hundred bucks and there's like 8 or 9 coats of clear on it if I remember correctly. All the nasty brake crud just comes right off with soap and water.
Paul.
I've been doing some traveling lately, so a buddy of mine agreed to help me out and install some parts while I was in India for work. All this stuff was just finished up on January 28th, but I've not had a chance to post the pics he snapped during the install.
The transmission has been out once before when it was replaced by Ford under warranty since it was whining since the day I got it. Predictably, the techs their did a shitty job on the install and managed to completely strip/cross thread/destroy the bolts holding the exhaust on. Thanks Rodeo Ford in Phoenix for being a bunch of hacks. My buddy had to spend hours cutting the nuts off to remove the factory cats/h-pipe.
Anyway, with that done, I'm told the install went pretty easily.
The flywheel had a broken dowel pin when it was removed.
My buddy Joe made this cool pilot bearing installer on his lathe, and installed a new HD pilot bearing from Ford.
Then the new McLeod aluminum flywheel with ARP bolts.
McLeod Street Extreme Clutch Disc
...and pressure plate with new OEM Ford bolts.
New OEM Ford slave cylinder.
I read some stories about weaknesses in the bolts provided by DSS that hold their billet adapter to the pinion flange. Rather than worry about it, like everything on my car, I overbuilt it. New grade 12.9 bolts were installed. Of course, they were to tall, so Joe turned 'em down in his lathe so they'd fit flush.
Turn down for what?
DSS carbon fiber driveshaft.
McLeod braided clutch line with bleeder.
Right now my car is at another buddy's house getting my 3.31 gears installed (replacing my factory 3.73s) along with a Wavetrac differential, all new bearings/seals, and ARP axle studs. A little later, I'll get some pics of the new separate clutch reservoir. It's a very clean install and I'm pleased with it.
The new clutch is nice. A little chattery at first, but that's to be expected when switching from my ultra-smooth OEM clutch. The pedal feel is excellent, and it's nice to have the fluid in the reservoir divorced from the brake system. I think that hot brake fluid may have been the culprit for some very difficult shifting during the last 1/2 mile event. On my last pass, I couldn't get the car in gear smoothly/at all and was struggling... against a 2000 horsepower Lamborghini no less.
Thanks to Terry at Beefcakeracing for the great deal on a lot of expensive parts. Thanks to my buddy Joe Telesca for the install. He is incredibly meticulous.
Can't wait for the next 1/4 mile event. Now that the drivetrain has been fortified, I'll feel much better about installing my race wheels and letting it rip off the line.
Paul.
The transmission has been out once before when it was replaced by Ford under warranty since it was whining since the day I got it. Predictably, the techs their did a shitty job on the install and managed to completely strip/cross thread/destroy the bolts holding the exhaust on. Thanks Rodeo Ford in Phoenix for being a bunch of hacks. My buddy had to spend hours cutting the nuts off to remove the factory cats/h-pipe.
Anyway, with that done, I'm told the install went pretty easily.
The flywheel had a broken dowel pin when it was removed.
My buddy Joe made this cool pilot bearing installer on his lathe, and installed a new HD pilot bearing from Ford.
Then the new McLeod aluminum flywheel with ARP bolts.
McLeod Street Extreme Clutch Disc
...and pressure plate with new OEM Ford bolts.
New OEM Ford slave cylinder.
I read some stories about weaknesses in the bolts provided by DSS that hold their billet adapter to the pinion flange. Rather than worry about it, like everything on my car, I overbuilt it. New grade 12.9 bolts were installed. Of course, they were to tall, so Joe turned 'em down in his lathe so they'd fit flush.
Turn down for what?
DSS carbon fiber driveshaft.
McLeod braided clutch line with bleeder.
Right now my car is at another buddy's house getting my 3.31 gears installed (replacing my factory 3.73s) along with a Wavetrac differential, all new bearings/seals, and ARP axle studs. A little later, I'll get some pics of the new separate clutch reservoir. It's a very clean install and I'm pleased with it.
The new clutch is nice. A little chattery at first, but that's to be expected when switching from my ultra-smooth OEM clutch. The pedal feel is excellent, and it's nice to have the fluid in the reservoir divorced from the brake system. I think that hot brake fluid may have been the culprit for some very difficult shifting during the last 1/2 mile event. On my last pass, I couldn't get the car in gear smoothly/at all and was struggling... against a 2000 horsepower Lamborghini no less.
Thanks to Terry at Beefcakeracing for the great deal on a lot of expensive parts. Thanks to my buddy Joe Telesca for the install. He is incredibly meticulous.
Can't wait for the next 1/4 mile event. Now that the drivetrain has been fortified, I'll feel much better about installing my race wheels and letting it rip off the line.
Paul.
3.31s are a game changer in the 1/4... you'll love not having to shift into 5th.
Damn dude, nice build thread! Love what you did with the seats especially and can't go wrong with a Whipple haha. Keep up the good work!
bumpppp
Wow, very nice thread and beautiful car.
I'm really liking that GT 500 steering wheel and will look into it for my car.
You did a great job, and your work appears factory.
I'm really liking that GT 500 steering wheel and will look into it for my car.
You did a great job, and your work appears factory.
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2017
- Messages
- 114
For your next big ticket purchase, go with a t56 Magnum XL. JPC sells a complete conversion kit for about 5500 if you opt for the top of the line parts with it (lots of options). Lots of flywheel/clutch/driveshaft options but man, this transmission is sweet and I'll never have to worry about it again. I was more or less forced into it after I broke 5th gear on my MT-82.
Nice build. Just curious why you went with the Wavetrac vs an Eaton Tru-Trac?
I know there is a Ford P/N Torsen T2R that goes for about $800 and is stronger than the Torsen aftermarket T2R's.
I'm looking to upgrade my A6 3:15's to 3:31 and getting away from a clutch pack diff since I want to take it to Track Days 4-6 times a year. I'd love to put in a Circle-D 2C converter but that is not the best setup for Track Days.
I know there is a Ford P/N Torsen T2R that goes for about $800 and is stronger than the Torsen aftermarket T2R's.
I'm looking to upgrade my A6 3:15's to 3:31 and getting away from a clutch pack diff since I want to take it to Track Days 4-6 times a year. I'd love to put in a Circle-D 2C converter but that is not the best setup for Track Days.
How did the 3.31's work out with respect to your 1/4-mile times. How did they affect your street driveability?
Cool thread ! Keep it up
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