Out of the ashes, a Phoenix is born (Boss 302 teardown and rebuild)

[ford20]

That being said, I got to work on getting the engine on the stand …. Although I jumped the gun a little :/ I wanted to go ahead and put the Rear main seal and retainer plate in before I bolted it up to the stand, but I didn’t have the rear main seal tool or the old seal, nor could I find a piece of PVC that was the same size so I can always put that on when I get the tool. As is, the shortblock isn’t that heavy so I can put it back up on the tailgate of the pickup in its crate and put it on then.

Retainer plate

Rear Main Seal

• Rear Main Seal Plate (Retainer) - BR3Z-6K301-A
• Rear Main Seal - AT4Z-6701-A

 

[ford20]

That was the first bit of misfortune, so I went on ahead and grabbed my oil pump. I looked at the crankshaft to locate the orientation of the two flat parts on my crankshaft. In the picture you can see that the flat part is at an 11:58 position, so what you do is you rotate the gears in the oil pump so that the subsequent marks align with the flat pieces on the crankshaft.

From there all you do is slide the oil pump flat up against the block and you can put your oil pump bolts and studs into place. I even had my helper with me today!

Here I ran into my second bit of misfortune, my torque wrench only goes down to 240 in/lbs. and 24 ft./lbs. so I can’t torque the bolts down on the oil pump. Well, that sucks but I can torque those down later. No biggie there, shit happens I guess. That’s what I get for not planning accordingly. Proper preparation prevents piss poor performance!

I will go over the torque sequences once I get the torque wrench as the oil pump has some specific requirements for the torque settings.

 

[ford20]

So I turned my attention next to the head studs. At least I can get those in without any issue. I grabbed the dowel pins for the heads (you should always get news ones for your build, they were like 4 bucks) and tapped them into place with my hammer. Once they reach the bottom they make a different sound when you hit them.

I ordered the block back in January and in the subsequent 5 months JPC and myself had forgotten if I actually had a 2013 block like the invoice stated or if that was just a place holder signifying a used black was used on the invoice so I talked to Eric at JPC about head bolt options and while he agreed that I would probably be fine with the TTY bolts, it never hurts to go with the ARP head studs. I agreed with that sentiment but my wallet was none too happy about hearing that haha. So I went and grabbed a head bolt from the Boss and proceeded to screw it into the block to see if it would go in. Sure enough it screwed in hand tight without issue. Well I guess that solves that debate!

Or so I thought …..


I went to go put the ARP studs in and they drop right to the bottom of the hole without touching a single thread ….. ****ING ****ING DICKHEADED FAT LEASBIAN WHO SEXUAL ASSAULTED A PENGUIN!!!!

****

I can’t win, Uncle Murphy has struck again. Anything that could have gone wrong went wrong. I hope this isn’t a sign of things to come. I am thinking maybe either ARP labeled the wrong box or for whatever reason the 2012 head bolts will fit in the hole for a 2013 block after being stretched? Or if you see that I ****ed something up, speak up and call me the retard.

• Dowel pins - FA8Z-6AA008-AA
• 11-12 ARP Head Studs - 256-4702
• 13-14 ARP Head Studs - 256-4301

 

[ford20]

Well after today I was sort of bummed and I remember what Matt Dasilva said in his Coyote swap thread on S197:

Let me start off by saying... when doing a big or decent size build the main key (other then running out of money) is to not loose motivation!

So, I ran into my bedroom and stared at Mt. Car parts and grabbed the 3 boxes at the bottom of the pile. I figured I shouldn’t lose motivation so let me see this beautiful thing on the motor. Too bad you are never going to see it once it is in. I dug through my parts bin and pulled out the baggie labeled Oil p/u tube and spacer and I threw those in “my parts washer” tubs and cleaned them off with some dawn, clean water and coffee filters since they are cheap and lint free. I went ahead and put the pickup tube spacer on, and then I grabbed my oil pan gasket/windage tray. While I am modeling my thread off of tmcolegr’s awesome build thread, you will notice no bare feet here! Only how ****ing poor I am right now and hoping my shoes will last me another couple of weeks -_-

I took a look at it along with most every part I have put on to ensure there was no dust or debris that could get into the motor and cause damage and would you look at that … dust and junk!

One of the many things I distinctly remember from tmcolegr’s build thread is cleanliness is very important as well as check all your parts even new ones so I am being careful with the items I put on there. I wiped off the dirt and lubricated the gasket on both sides of the windage tray. Remember, the convex side faces up (just as it is in the picture. I then proceeded to grab my oil pump pick up tube and lubricated the gasket on that as well and put it into place.

I didn’t torque any of the pickup tube bolts or the spacer bolt as those are in/lbs. as well so I will get those specs when I do that. I then put the pièce de résistance on and turned the shortblock around and looked at it. It is starting to look like a real engine again!!!! Motivation returned!

I did not check pickup tube clearances yet as I didn’t torque anything down but once I do I will highlight the method in doing that as well.

• Oil Pan gasket/Windage Tray - BR3Z-6701-A
• Oil Pump Pickup Tube & Gasket - BR3Z-6622-A
• Moroso Race Oil Pan - 20572

 

[darreng505]

Keep at it Sean. You got a lot of good info in this thread and I've learned a lot! Those engine diagrams are great. I hadn't come across them before and will use them to rebuild my old boss motor!

 

[gimmie11s]

damn that looks outstanding. Keep saving your pennies..... now that you have a motor built for the task, IT NEEDS BOOST!

 

[BLKFOX]

Very cool thread! I like seeing the updates

 

[H-TownMachI]

Don't spend all your money on that motor. Save some for some new shoes. I would hate to see a post where you lost your pinkie toe.

 

[ford20]

Keep at it Sean. You got a lot of good info in this thread and I've learned a lot! Those engine diagrams are great. I hadn't come across them before and will use them to rebuild my old boss motor!

Thanks Darren! If you want, or anyone wants I have a subscription at www.alldatadiy.com ... it was like $40 for 2 years and has been well worth it not only for rebuilding the engine.

damn that looks outstanding. Keep saving your pennies..... now that you have a motor built for the task, IT NEEDS BOOST!

Funny you say that, I have been eyeing a JPC Turbo for the longest time but it soooo wouldn't really fit in with the plans I have for the car haha. Would be hella fun though!

Very cool thread! I like seeing the updates

You and me both! The more updates, the closer I am to getting this thing on the road!! After a year

Don't spend all your money on that motor. Save some for some new shoes. I would hate to see a post where you lost your pinkie toe.

HAHAHAHA Yes!!! My girlfriend looked at me the other day and went "REALLY?! Still no new shoes?! I'm buying you shoes that's it"


In other news I got my torque wrench today, hard to believe no one carries an in/lbs. torque wrench around here

 

[ford20]

Well, I got the head studs in. I ended up having to chase the threads in 2 holes (oddly enough right next to each other) and the studs threaded into place without issue. The issue I ran into was that the Tap that ARP sells you is 3.5” long and the threads start 3.4 inches into the block. Thankfully, by the grace of god the 5/16th deep socket was the perfect size to fit the end of the tap as well as the hole.

My contraption

I damn near shit my pants trying to decide should I continue at this point and potentially **** myself or stop. I live dangerously and kept going, thankfully one more turn and it reached the bottom.

Then I can pull it out with my magnetic extension.


Now, all the studs are in their place and ready for the heads. I’m not too certain how important this is but after screwing the studs by hand, as per ARP instructions, into the holes and touching the bottom I measured them and they were all within 2 or 3 thousands of an inch (3.556” was a common number) minus 1 which was 3.49X".

Studs are in!! I also got my head gaskets and heads in from JPC yesterday so as soon as I can find the old head gaskets I will be putting the heads on to prevent anything from falling into the combustion chamber or cooling passages.

Thread Chaser Extension

• ARP M12x1.75 Thread cleaning tool – Part # 912-0008
• 5/16 deep socket
• 3/8’s extension
• 3/8’s socket wrench

 

[ford20]

I just want to give a HUGE thank you and a shout out to Tad @ Freedom Racing. Some of you know Tad from S197forum or and others may not. Freedom Racing has all sorts of OEM tools that you can buy or rent for a reasonable price and their service is second to none. Every time I get in touch with Tad, it is unfortunately on a weekend and usually within 15 minutes or so I have a PM back from him. Well Saturday night I went ahead and asked him a bunch of questions about certain tools and whatnot and he told me that he would run down to the shop tomorrow (on Sunday) and get me the answers. Sunday afternoon I had all the info that I needed with a special quote and everything all ready. Tad is a hell of a guy and I love Freedom Racing, everything always goes so smooth and I have never had any issues with them.

http://www.freedomracing.com/

Anyway, back to the fun

Seeing as I now have what I need to put in the retainer plate and the rear main seal I figured now was the time to get things done. So, off comes the oil pan, pickup tube and windage tray so I can put in the retainer plate.

I open the box and pull out the necessary tools and get to work. Seeing as how I have never done this before (as pretty much everything with the build) I figured I would do a little step to step for those who have never done it before. With the retainer plate on my bench I cleaned the area where the rear main seal goes and lubricated the rear main seal along with the hole where it fits into and just positioned the seal on top of it with both indication marks and the 12 and 6 position.

I then put the tool onto the rear main seal

I then grabbed my BFH (Big ****ing hammer) and hit the shaft until the seal top of the seal laid flush with retainer plate as the OEM one is.

When I get home from work tonight I will put some gasket sealer on it and install the plate onto the block.

• Rear Main Seal Plate (Retainer) – Part # - BR3Z-6K301-A
• Rear Main Seal – Part #- AT4Z-6701-A
• Rear Main Seal Installer Set – Part # - 303-1250
• Adaptor Drive Handle – Part # - 205-153

 

[Dizzyscure1]

again nice build man

 

[Bullitt 3309]

Nice progress. I feel ya on the torque wrench issue. I bought my inch pounds one thru NAPA, had to wait a day to get it delivered. You will love the torque sequences as well... I bought an angle torque gauge to get the degree crap down.... I hate the thing... Good luck!

 

[ford20]

again nice build man

Haha thanks! If something goes wrong with it though, I am coming skydiving with you and forgetting my parachute lol.

Nice progress. I feel ya on the torque wrench issue. I bought my inch pounds one thru NAPA, had to wait a day to get it delivered. You will love the torque sequences as well... I bought an angle torque gauge to get the degree crap down.... I hate the thing... Good luck!

Which angle gauge do you have? All the ones I saw, the reviews were terrible and they were nothing but cheap plastic shit. I'm not looking forward to the whole angle thing with torquing everything down. I know the oil pump has like a 70 degree angle you have to torque it to and I'm sort of like what the ****?!

 

[ford20]

So I talked to Tim Eichhorn at MPR Engines in Flordia yesterday and he advised me that they got the billet secondary timing chains in. Finally, the last piece that I was waiting for will be here sometime today supposedly *fingers crossed*. I know I am overbuilding the engine as is in hopes that it will not break on me. That being said, I chose to go with the Billet chains over the Ford units due to the Trick Flow valve springs in the engine having a higher seat pressure than the stock Boss springs (which for as decent as they are, they really aren't that great of valve springs), couple that with the aftermarket cams and the RPM’s that I will be turning and it seemed like a good choice. All along this engine was built to sustain the high RPM’s that I would see while doing some HPDE days and autocrossing at the expense of low and some mid range power which I am fine with due to the 3.73’s it shouldn’t feel like an absolute pig in those power ranges.

I ran home during lunch and started breaking down the motor as I wanted to start from the beginning in case I forgot something, so I tore the block down and took the heads off the block. I started with putting the oil pump pickup tube spacer on, followed by the pickup tube and windage tray followed by the oil pan.

Parts List

• Oil Pan gasket/Windage Tray - BR3Z-6701-A
• Oil Pump Pickup Tube & Gasket - BR3Z-6622-A
• Moroso Race Oil Pan - 20572

Torque Specs

• Pickup tube spacer - 17mm - 18 lb-ft
• Oil Pan pickup tube - 10mm - 89 lb-in + additional 45 degree turn
• Oil Pan - 10mm - Follow order for tightening oil pan bolts. Torque in 3 steps *NOTE #7 IS A STUD BOLT, NOT JUST A REGULAR OIL PAN BOLT*
• Stage 1 - 18 lb-in
• Stage 2 - 89 lb-in
• Stage 3 - additional 45 degree turn

I also turned my attention to the oil pump now and torquing down those bolts. The oil pump has some unique steps to it so be sure to follow the torque sequences for each bolt. See the picture for reference.

Torque Specs

• Oil Pump Bolt #1 - 8mm / Oil Pump Stud #2 - 13mm / Oil Pump Bolt #3 8mm / Oil Pump Stud #4 9mm
• Stage 1 - Hand tighten
• Stage 2 - Bolt #1 89 lb-in / Stud #2 18 lb-ft / Bolt #3 89 lb-in / Stud #4 177 lb-in
• Stage 3 - Bolt #1 additional 45 degree turn / Stud 32 additional 75 degree turn / Bolt #3 additional 45 degree turn / Stud #4 additional 60 degree turn

 

[ford20]

Well The cam cap bolts keep snapping on me. I can't even get it to 18 lb-ft before it breaks on me. Almost as if the hole isn't tapped far enough.

 

[ford20]

Well, today was a productive day despite some setbacks from my stupidity. First let me start off by saying that despite what the service manual says, don't put the oil pan on first. That should be the last thing to go on this way you can ensure that the balancer is installed correctly. Thanks to Eric @ JPC Racing for pointing that out to me when I asked a completely unrelated question.

That being said, let's start off.

Yesterday I got the secondary chains from MPR Racing Engines in Florida. I have to say thank you to Tim and Christina for getting these out ASAP for me and letting me know that they received them the second they came in.

Last night I got the rear main seal plate put on the back of the motor. Using Permatex Anerobic Gasket Maker. I put a bead of this on the motor .According to the service manual, you put the bead on the motor, not on the retainer plate itself. I don't have a picture of this as it was night and I just wanted to get inside and shut it down for the night but the rear main seal is on.

Note: When putting this on, use a continuos bead of gasket maker and do not move the plate sideways when placing the plate on or as per the manual, you stand a greater chance at having the gasket leak. That would be a giant pain in the ass considering the location of the plate.

Parts list

• Retainer Plate - BR3Z-6K301-A
• Retainer Plate Bolts - W714962-SXXXXXX (I don't have the last part of the Part number for the bolts.
• Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker - 51813

Torque Specs

• Retainer Plate - 10mm - 89lb-in + additional 45 degree turn
• Follow sequence below

 

[ford20]

I just want to say, sorry for all of the typos, I am writing this on my Ipad since my laptop broke last January and I don't have the money to go and get a new one just yet. The next thing I did was turn my attention to the heads. As you may know, the Boss heads were no good. They could have been repaired but I felt it was better to pursue a different path with the heads. The problem with the Boss heads is that there really isn't a lot of machining that can really be done to them compared to the GT heads. There just isn't enough meat on the heads where you can do a good head job. Outside of that the Boss heads are very good for stock heads and flow excellently and are capable of creating some very good power numbers as is. That being said, I talked to Steve over at Tasca and he hooked me up with a set of 2015 GT heads and off they went to RGR for their stage 2 head job. Sometimes it is nice to know what kind of product you are getting

Well, in the meantime I bought a whole bunch of FRPP parts to hurry along the build. Some of these parts JUST came out and Steve didn't even have pricing on some of them just yet but they are as follows:

• Coyote Camshaft Drive kit - M-6004-A504 - Includes new Primary and Secondary phasers, Boss 302 Primary tensioners, secondary tensioners, primary chains, secondary chains, oil pump bolts, tensioner pins, tensioner arms, camshaft filters, crank sprocket, tensioner hardware, and camshaft bolts
• Coyote Engine Harness kit - M-12508-M50 - Supposedly with this kit there is no rewiring needed for switching to the Cobra Jet Intakes and throttle bodies. We will see how well that claim is. That being said you need the following VCT actuators for this kit.
• 2/27/12 or newer VCT solenoids - BR3Z-6M280-D
• Coyote engine ignition coil kit - M-12029-M50C
• Cobra Jet Pulse Ring - M-12A227-CJ13
• Roller Pilot Bearing - M-7600-B
• Boss 302R Electric steering rack - M-3200-EPAS
• Boss 302 Engine Oil Cooler - M-6642-B
• Lash adjuster assembly - M-6500-M50
• 5.0L Coyote Roller Finger Follower Kit - M-6465-M50
• Cobra Jet Air Intake - M-9000-M50CJ

The 2015 heads come bare with just valves, valve springs, and keepers so I also needed to get some roller followers along with the lash adjusters. I had the heads shipped to me and got them all ready to be put in. I have to say they are a work of art IMO. Trick Flow Valve Springs, RGR bronze valve guides Ferrea oversized valves, and a nice port work to the intake and exhaust ports along with some bowl work and a whole slew of things I am probably forgetting.

That being said, there have been people noticing that their Cobra jet Intake Manifolds intake runners were much larger in size than the intake ports are on the heads. That will cause a little bit of loss in power than if the ports were matched in size.So I took some painters tape and grabbed my x-acto knife and traced the intake ports on the manifold and transferred that over to some cardboard. Well would you look at that

Perfect fit! Don't mind me holding the piece on the head, if I had let it go, it would have fallen down the intake port and I really didn't want that to happen.

From this point I wanted to calculate my compression ratio so I needed to know the combustion chamber volume so I grabbed the tools needed (sorry no pictures of this). You need your spark plug as the spark plug takes up a specific volume in the combustion chamber, a piece of plexiglass with a hole cut in the center, some sort of way to measure the liquid going into the Combustion chamber (a syringe works as it has a marked volume on it), some vaseline and some water. The first thing that I did was to level the head so I grabbed a bunch of coffee filters I use to clean parts and folded them up until I got the heads nice and level. What you are doing is taking your water and filling up the combustion chamber with a specified CC's of water. The factory size is 54.5cc's so when you get to this point you take some vaseline and put it around the combustion chamber to seal the chamber off, now take your piece of plexiglass and put it over the combustion chamber. From there you can continue putting water in the combustion chamber. When you start to get to the top of the piece of plexiglass, you stop. Subtract what you have left in the syringe from the volume of the syringe and add up how many times you added water into the combustion chamber ie. if you have a 10ml syringe (although mine was .5ml URGH) and you filled it 5 times and you have 4 ml's of water left in the syringe you have a combustion chamber size of 56 cc's.

Now that I know this I can go ahead and calculate my compression ratio. While there are calculators out there that will do the math for me, I like to do this sort of stuff so I sat down with a pad and pencil and went about calculating the compression ratio myself. While there are a certain number of ways to calculate your compression ratio, I decided use a technique called slicing pi as it seemed the simplest and easiest way to do this.

Bare with me as we are about to embark on a treacherous journey into the world of ...... MATH

When calculating your compression ratio there are 5 variables that we are going to need to find and we are going to need to solve for. In looking at the ways to find your compression ratio I saw this video and it stood out to me as the most detailed and concise way to find your compression ratio. Beware though, it is 20 minutes long but it is very thorough in the explanation. I have also found a love for Jafromobile and his videos now because of this.

http://youtu.be/bWze92nt9OU

Anyway, snap back to reality and math!! Ok, so the variables that we need to solve are as follows:

V1 = Swept volume - Here you are calculating the engine volume based on the bore and stroke of the cylinder.
V2 = Gasket volume
V3 = Piston to deck volume - Here you are calculating the distance between the piston at top dead center and the deck
V4 = Piston volume
V5 = Head combustion chamber volume

Getting my measurements

I know what my bore is based on the proposed measurements brought forth by RGR & JPC. I don't have a dial bore gauge to calculate my actual bore but when I measured it with my dial caliper at the top (I know this is entirely wrong and un scientific but I didn't have the right tools available to me at the time) it measured out 5 times to an average of 3.699 in, so I am confident in their measurements on stroke as well which I know is 3.800.

In order to find the crushed gasket thickness of the gasket I am using I contacted Cometic and asked them for the crushed measurement and they said that it will be .040 as listed on the packaging and all of the crushed thickness' will be listed on the gaskets so my gaskets crushed thickness is .040.

In order to measure my PTD clearance I had to find TDC on the number 1 piston. Out came my dial indicator and stand that I got with the Comp Coyote Camshaft Degree Kit. Unfortunately, I didn't have anyway to securely fasten it to the deck so I had to hold it steady by hand. Not an easy task to do when you are trying to rotate the engine at the same time. Anyway, it ended up taking me about an hour to find TDC and then I spent another 45 minutes making sure that it was true TDC which ended up with me double checking my measurements 8 times. So, I set TDC and grabbed my smallest feeler gauge and went all the way around the entire piston and couldn't get it threw so I knew the gap was at least .004" I checked with Eric over at JPC about this and he said that Rich makes sure he zero decked the engine. Considering I couldn't get a .005 feeler gauge in there nor could I see daylight between th piston and my straight edge I am pretty confident that is the case.

My pistons are a flat top piston with a .70 valve relief cut in them.

Head CC volume using the method outlined above is 57cc's

Shall we get started on the math now?

Now, according to the Hot Rod magazine article listed below the formula for calculating your compression ratio is as follows

Compression Ratio = (V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) / (V2+V3+V4+V5)

Calculating Engine Compression - Formulas, Tech - Circle Track

When figuring out the swept volume (displacement in the Hot Rod article), gasket volume, & the piston to deck volume most people will have you follow a formula that looks like this:

(bore/2)^2 x 3.14 (pi) x your variable

Instead of doing that, we are going to be slicing Pi which will divide the circle into 4 equal parts so our equations become MUCH simpler IMO. When we slice pi we come with the number that we multiply everything by .7854

V1

Bore x Bore x Stroke x .7854 = V1
3.700 x 3.700 x 3.800 x .7854 = 40.8580788
V1 = 40.8580788

V2

This one is a little bit tricky. The online calculators seem to use bore of the cylinder rather than the gasket bore size. Using two different measurements will come up with two different compression ratios off by a couple hundredths so I will use the way the online calculators measure gasket volume.

Bore x Bore x compressed gasket thickness x .7854 = V2
3.700 x 3.700 x .040 x .7854 = .43008504
V2 = .43008504

V3

Note: Negative value if the piston protrudes above the deck surface, positive if it is below the deck surface

Bore x Bore x Pistons Distance relative to the deck surface x .7854 = V3
3.700 x 3.700 x .000 x. 7854 = 0
V3 = 0

V4

Because this measurement is in cubic centimeters and we want it to be in cubic inches like the rest of our measurements, we have to multiply this number by .0610237

pistons volume =.70 cc's
.70 x .0610237 = .04271659
V4 = .04271659

V5

Because this measurement is in cubic centimeters and we want it to be in cubic inches like the rest of our measurements, we have to multiply this number by .0610237

Combustion chamber volume = 57 cc's
57 x .0610237 = 3.4783509
V5 = 3.4783509

Now that we have all of our variables, we can go ahead and plug them into our formula above

Compression Ratio = (V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) / (V2+V3+V4+V5)
Compression Ratio = (40.8580788+.43008504+0+.04271659+.4783509) / (.43008504+0+.04271659+.4783509)
Compression Ratio = 44.80923133 / 3.95115253
Compression Ratio = 11.3408001816624
Compression Ratio = 11.34:1

From here we can easily find out our displacement. All we have to do is take V1 (our swept volume of a cylinder) and multiply it by how many cylinders the engine has.

Displacement = V1 x number of cylinders
Displacement = 40.8580788 X 8
Displacement = 326.8646304
Displacement = 327 CI ......... rounded up, always looking for that extra inch right fellas haha

I certainly would have liked to go higher on the compression ratio but stock compression works for me for now. This way I can see what the extra cubic inches and full bolt ons will yield with a Coyote and I'm excited to see what it can do. I know that a Coyote with some big cams can make 577 HP on E85 with 318 CI and a similar setup so I am curious what my entirely different cams and stock compression will do with an extra 9 cubic inches. Plus, down the road when the engine needs to be refreshed I can go a little bit stupid and maybe get that 344ci coyote and run a 12:1 compression ratio and hurt some feelings with it MUWHAHAHAHAHA. I think I will leave this one off here for now.

 

[ford20]

Back to the fun stuff. After I turned my attention away from math and back on putting parts on the car, I put all of the ARP studs back in. I went down to the bottom of the holes because if I turned them half a turn, they were wobbly as shit and it wasn't something I was confident in. Studs went back in the engine and out came the Cometic head gaskets for a 11-14 Mustang. After lining up the head gaskets on the heads, it looks like everything lined up and is all set. So in case anyone is wondering. 2015 heads fit on the 11-14 block and with 11-14 head gaskets without issues.

Head gaskets got put on the deck and then the heads got put onto the block followed by the ARP washers and ARP nuts. As per ARP instructions I used the ARP assembly lube and put some on the threads of the studs as well as the nuts. It may have been overkill but oh well. I asked around bout the torque procedure at Tim Eichhorn over at MPR Racing Engines told me what he uses for the ARP bolts.

Parts List

• 2015 Heads - FR3Z-6049-A
• 2015 Heads - FR3Z-6049-B
• Cometic 94mm Bore MLS .040" Gasket Right - C5286-040
• Cometic 94mm Bore LMS .040" Gasket Left - C5287-040
• ARP Head Studs 11-12 Block - 256-4702

Torque Specs

• Step 1 - Hand tight
• Step 2 - 30lb-ft - I waited an hour before continuing on
• Step 3 - 30lb-ft again
• Step 4 - 50lb-ft
• Step 5 - 70lb-ft
• Step 6 - 90lb-ft
• Step 7 - 110lb-ft
• Step 8 - Wait an hour and 110lb-ft again

Follow the head stud torquing sequences below for each side

Right Hand

Left Hand

 

[darreng505]

Sweet looking heads Sean. Once you get this beast up and running you should compile all your posts into a wiki for the good of mankind. You've really taken the time to share all the details of your build. Part numbers and all. My hats off to you! Bravo.:rockon: