NEED HELP PLEASE!

NotSatisfied

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According to Ford it’s within specification, if my highest was almost 185 and the lowest was 145

I have seen some compression tests on YouTube on these cars, granted had more miles, ran fine and were lower than mine.


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9397SVTs

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I was told these results werent terrible and to just get the car back together.
No. They aren't terrible. A 10%-15% variation is preferred.

Sure, you can just put it back together and run it.

But, let's not forget that you ran a lot of water through the engine.

Ignorance is bliss or peace of mind?
 

NotSatisfied

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No. They aren't terrible. A 10%-15% variation is preferred.

Sure, you can just put it back together and run it.

But, let's not forget that you ran a lot of water through the engine.

Ignorance is bliss or peace of mind?

This is true however I never got the car started when it was like that…. Just cranking via the starter and then towed home


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hotcobra03

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150 on cold engine is good,,

You can't use chart because test wasn't done properly.

Guages we use also may read differently..

I've tested mine since warranty ran out at 72k, ford had replaced drivers head at 60k,,

Since I've repaired that head @120k,Than replaced @200k,
Ran to now @422k.

I got hash marks from dropped valve seat,,
I have hashes from cam gear exploding

Sure your going to be OK on this part of your problem.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Thank you all, from the bottom of my heart!

Cars running now!


Couple heat cycles at idle and I will change the oil. I appreciate it!


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Glad to see it running!

If you did do anything with the crossover pipe it takes a good 2-3 burps at the cross over , minimum to get all the air out so keep an eye on it
 

NotSatisfied

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Glad to see it running!

If you did do anything with the crossover pipe it takes a good 2-3 burps at the cross over , minimum to get all the air out so keep an eye on it

Will do. Unfortunately for some reason, I tried to ensure the right tune was in and now I got the dashes on the odometer again abd the battery is totally drained. I noticed the wire to the alternator was HOT. The tender says I have 22% voltage for some reason. I’ll be honest I didn’t cinche down the cables while it was running… no blown fuses
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MG0h3

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Will do. Unfortunately for some reason, I tried to ensure the right tune was in and now I got the dashes on the odometer again abd the battery is totally drained. I noticed the wire to the alternator was HOT. The tender says I have 22% voltage for some reason. I’ll be honest I didn’t cinche down the cables while it was running… no blown fuses View attachment 1743866


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Likely a poor connection and the causing a restriction/voltage drop which in turn causes heat a s’more colts are required to move the required current.

Same thing can happen even with good connections of the circuitry is too small.

Tighten everything down correctly and throw a colt meter on it


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04oxfordvert

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^^^ 100% agree, as stated bad connection will cause high amperage draw. High amperage draw = high heat. Always 100% tighten every electrical connection. Bad connections can cause serious ghosts. Super glad you have that beast running!

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NotSatisfied

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Thanks I have tightened everything down (thank you!)

I still have the dashes on my odometer now, unlike previously, all my fuses are good and intact. All harnesses are right.

All I tried to do was go in and return to stock and ensure the tune I needed was loaded- that’s when all these issues surfaced.

I downloaded my “stock file” to my desktop and am now updating the device.
 

hotcobra03

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I've had times my tuner did this after changes.
I would have to install again and than was fine,,

Mine has footnotes about having door open or say radio on during rewrite of pcm.
 

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