yes, make sure the connector is fully engaged.
NEED HELP PLEASE!
- Thread starter NotSatisfied
- Start date
I haven’t been any where near it, isn’t it in the fender?
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Long thread,
Sad thing on Intercooler.
In here is our full service manual
Take a look at main ground wire from battery to radiator support,,
It feeds the car ground to pcm and everything you said that's crazy now..
That wire isn't big enough.
Cranking the balls out of it may have burned up the wire inside casing where you can't see .
When you get in manual ford has a crank but no start checklist to follow. Will fix you every time
Sad thing on Intercooler.
In here is our full service manual
Take a look at main ground wire from battery to radiator support,,
It feeds the car ground to pcm and everything you said that's crazy now..
That wire isn't big enough.
Cranking the balls out of it may have burned up the wire inside casing where you can't see .
When you get in manual ford has a crank but no start checklist to follow. Will fix you every time
no, it's near the battery.
I dont think there's any need to chase anything else until the motor full of water issue is sorted out
The Intercooler was cracked, blower removed and injectors sent off for service.
I got 99% of the water out, there is obviously some still in there, maybe 1/4-1/8th teaspoon.
Waiting to find a good used Intercooler and once I do I’ll put it all back together. I won’t be able to start the car though until the PCM starts working again.
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Reading through this thread hurts my heart! lol I can't imagine having that feeling of getting a new toy just have this happen. Before my heated garage, I used to worry about this sort of thing. Always puckered my b-hole during that first spring startup.
Good luck, OP. Don't let this incident take the wind out of your sails.
Good luck, OP. Don't let this incident take the wind out of your sails.
I have been very emotionally stressed. Very..
I called my uncle and he told me there are some good deals and some not so good deals. All you can do is turn it into a good deal. Seller has helped me and has not ghosted me, no concern there.
I called my uncle and he told me there are some good deals and some not so good deals. All you can do is turn it into a good deal. Seller has helped me and has not ghosted me, no concern there.
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I guess I missed a post or two - whats the pcm issue?
I disconnected the main harness and the one right above it, pulled the fuel pump fuse to crank engine and clear it out. Also removed old alarm system.
Odometer is just ———- dashes now.
No worries @NotSatisfied! We SVTP boys got you covered.
CCRM and PCM power comes from these fuses from Battery Junction Box (BJB) and 1 from Central Junction Box (CJB) F2.34 20A
Check all these from (BJB) F1.26 30A, F1.14 20A, F1.24 20A, F1.1 50A
F2.34 20A & F1.26 30A are for the PCM power relay (Directs voltage to PCM and PCM–related components.)
Lightning fast
Electrical Automotive Repair LLC (Professsional, quality and honest business is my top priorty)
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I agree.
Once it's back together and can be started, you need to see if any significant damage has been done.
Whether necessary or not, I would run the engine through 3-4 cycles of oil/filter changes. Let the engine idle and get up to operating temp and letting the fan/thermostat cycle for 30 minutes. Drain the oil, change the filter, and repeat. You can use cheap mineral based oil.
I think this will do a good job of relubricating the engine, evaporating/removing any remaining water, and purging the supercharger coolant of air.
Then, you'll want to do your compression/leak down tests.
Great more paranoia and stress lol.
I agree, When I changed the oil, I also pour a bunch of oil I had on the shelf to just push/ displace any remaining froth out, then I put the fresh Mobil in. I plan on getting it to temperature and draining and again.
I’m thankful I was only cranking the engine and not running the engine. Also lucky it was just distilled water and not coolant.
Coolant would have wiped the bearings.
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Great job sticking it out and diving right in to determine the cause of the matter at hand. As Vinnie said, we got your back on this. Whether that may be knowledge, or possibly other avenues. I’m terribly sorry to hear about the issues, I’m not going to knock the seller however possibly mentioning such to a potential buyer does seem rather odd. However it’s very possible he didn’t know. I’m glad he’s stayed In touch, and had offered to help in certain aspects. Be glad you caught it, and you didn’t run the car hard or anything of that matter. Unfortunate to say the least, you’ll bounce back from this. Keep us posted. Keep your head up my friend.
That means a lot. Thank you.
I do need to know the following:
- can I reuse the Whipple socket bolts that connect blower to lower manifold.
- where can I find replacement bolts for Intercooler and lower. Can I use black/grade 8 bolts for the Intercooler or will they rust/seize up?
- what gasket RTV do i use for the Intercooler?
- can I reuse the flat black (I think metal) gasket between blower and lower?
- can I reuse those Ford blue/black lower intake gaskets ?
- I assume all factory torque specs?
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Answers in bold.
What kind of RTV sealant?
I have the little ones and the lower manifold bolts but I was told not to reuse them
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I swear I’d heard that you can’t reuse certain bolts as well.
But the info in your thread is good timing…..
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I use Permatex "The Right Stuff", works great. Motorcraft TA-29 (squeeze tube) or TA-31 (caulk tube) are good too.
The bolts can be re-used as long as they're in good shape, they're not torque-to-yield or anything. The screws holding the intercooler to the blower should have red loctite applied. The bolts that hold the lower intake to the cylinder heads have a very low torque spec and can snap easily. Use a high quality inch-pound 1/4" torque wrench, maybe low-ball the specs by 10 or 20% to be sure.
EDIT: It's been a while since I installed my Whipple but it may need different screws to attach the intercooler brick.
Thanks all. Im going to start a new thread on the Odometer/PCM issue now.
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