My PA alternator kicking out 14.5psi

[03kevo]

My car car has a PA alternator that has about 3560miles on it. It has been pretty cool/cold here as far as temperatures are concerned. However my alternator is running around 14.5v on wot then drops to 13.6v. Is this normal or should i be concerned? Does this high voltage affect things like A/F etc?

Thanx

 

[rich5150]

My car car has a PA alternator that has about 3560miles on it. It has been pretty cool/cold here as far as temperatures are concerned. However my alternator is running around 14.5v on wot then drops to 13.6v. Is this normal or should i be concerned? Does this high voltage affect things like A/F etc?

Thanx

Interesting thread title. I was not aware that PA Performance alternators were rated in boost. :dancenana:


Anyways, this is perfectly normal to have elevated voltage(you want this with the increase of demand on spark at higher RPMS)(not to mention fuel pump electrical demand) Keep in mind, if you have an OVERSIZED crank pulley to overspin your blower, your Alternator is also on the same belt. So you are in effect overspinning your alternator too. This could severely shorten the life of the thing. Trust me on this. LOL

A call to PA Performance I'm sure could yield a 20% larger pulley for the alternator if this is the case.

It does not effect A/F. If you are over 14.7VDC for extended periods of time, the higher Voltage COULD play a part in shortening the life of various sensors...etc. Your MAF needs at least 12.1VDC of power or above to correctly adjust for A/F. Anything below that and everything starts to act funky.

 

[Parts-is-Parts]

13.6 is excellent!!!!

 

[highcompression]

Totally normal. The computer cuts OFF the alternator output at WOT. Some will argue with me, do a little research . Most tuners don't even know this (at least the ones I've encountered).

Also, PA's alternators DO NOT and cannot be overspun. Order a 3.2" metco.

 

[T800]

My car car has a PA alternator that has about 3560miles on it. It has been pretty cool/cold here as far as temperatures are concerned. However my alternator is running around 14.5v on wot then drops to 13.6v. Is this normal or should i be concerned? Does this high voltage affect things like A/F etc?

Thanx

You are now on borrowed time. This alternator WILL fail and you will be lucky to get a replacement regardless of the "Lifetime Warranty".

I had one fail some time back, lasted 3 months. Over 2 weeks time, I sent three emails, left 5 voicemails and finally "caught" them on the phone. I was questioned in depth about what size pulley's were on the car, it was obvious they were hoping to void the warranty due to over-spinning the alternator with a non factory sized lower.

I informed the rep that my lower, as well as my alt pulley were factory and would take photo's if needed. Ultimately, sent the alternator in for repair replacement. When it was returned this is the letter that accompanied it:

"The alternators rotor was overspun, replaced the rotor under goodwill warranty, future rotor failures of the same kind will NOT be warrantied. The customer should go through the pulley math on the attached sheet to ensure there is a safe pulley ratio. THIS NEEDS TO BE DONE WHETHER OR NOT THE STOCK PULLEYS ARE INSTALLED." :fm:

There was no attached sheet.

I got in touch with them one last time to get an explanation as to why they would develop a product for a specific application and then renig on the warranty when the product fails in the environment for which it was designed.

Still waiting on a reply...that was a year ago.

Good luck with the alt. If you rarely drive the car, it could last for some time. I wouldn't go on any long distance trips though.

 

[racebronco2]

Totally normal. The computer cuts OFF the alternator output at WOT. Some will argue with me, do a little research . Most tuners don't even know this (at least the ones I've encountered).

Also, PA's alternators DO NOT and cannot be overspun. Order a 3.2" metco.

Do you have any datalogs to prove your point? I heard the same thing also but looking at my datalogs it doesn't show that. By the way our cars charging system is not controlled by the computer. Some other models are controlled by the computer. Look at a wiring diagram, it does not show the ecu connected to the charging system in any way.

You contradicting yourself, First you say it cuts off alternator output and than you say it's normal to go from 14.6v to 13.6. The battery voltage is around 12.6 volts so his computer is not cutting out at wot, in fact it's at least one volt higher than the battery.

I do think your alternator is overcharging, should get it checked out.

 

[rich5150]

Totally normal. The computer cuts OFF the alternator output at WOT. Some will argue with me, do a little research . Most tuners don't even know this (at least the ones I've encountered).

Also, PA's alternators DO NOT and cannot be overspun. Order a 3.2" metco.

You are completely wrong on both points. Please refrain from posting nonsense.

Check out PA Performance's website as they clearly state a MAX of 16,000RPM.

PA Performance- You only buy quality once!- 877-471-8010

Direct quote from their website :
An alternator needs 1800-2000 at idle to make power and will make maximum output at 6000 rpm, and will start to fail at 16,000 RPM.

:read:
View attachment 8584

Secondly the computer does not "cut off" alternator output at WOT. The only spinable device under the hood that is disabled is the A/C compressor under WOT.

 

[highcompression]

You are completely wrong on both points. Please refrain from posting nonsense.

Check out PA Performance's website as they clearly state a MAX of 16,000RPM.

PA Performance- You only buy quality once!- 877-471-8010

Direct quote from their website :
An alternator needs 1800-2000 at idle to make power and will make maximum output at 6000 rpm, and will start to fail at 16,000 RPM.

:read:
View attachment 8584

Secondly the computer does not "cut off" alternator output at WOT. The only spinable device under the hood that is disabled is the A/C compressor under WOT.

Cool story bro.

Do some homework, call a compitient tuner. I'm right on all accounts. 03-04 cobras CUT OUTPUT at WOT (above a certain RPM). Also, you spin a PA alternator past 16,000 ... you WILL blow the cheap ass rotor apart. I've been through 3-4 PA alternators USING a 3.2" pulley and spinning NO faster then 15,200.

Like I said to the OP, buy a Metco 3.2" alt pulley. A good battery helps a ton to act as a "buffer". I'm a big fan of Optima.

 

[highcompression]

Really easy to calculate accessory RPM ..... Take crank pulley size, divide that by the size of the pulley you are trying to figure out. You will now have a number, multiply that number by your max RPM, and there's your accessory RPM.

 

[highcompression]

You are completely wrong on both points. Please refrain from posting nonsense.

Check out PA Performance's website as they clearly state a MAX of 16,000RPM.

PA Performance- You only buy quality once!- 877-471-8010

Direct quote from their website :
An alternator needs 1800-2000 at idle to make power and will make maximum output at 6000 rpm, and will start to fail at 16,000 RPM.

:read:
View attachment 8584

Secondly the computer does not "cut off" alternator output at WOT. The only spinable device under the hood that is disabled is the A/C compressor under WOT.

Do you have any datalogs to prove your point? I heard the same thing also but looking at my datalogs it doesn't show that. By the way our cars charging system is not controlled by the computer. Some other models are controlled by the computer. Look at a wiring diagram, it does not show the ecu connected to the charging system in any way.

You contradicting yourself, First you say it cuts off alternator output and than you say it's normal to go from 14.6v to 13.6. The battery voltage is around 12.6 volts so his computer is not cutting out at wot, in fact it's at least one volt higher than the battery.

I do think your alternator is overcharging, should get it checked out.

\

Do some more homework. That's what google/search button is for.

It IS totally normal for voltage to drop as car warms up and battery goes into a charged state. Mine starts about 14.5, then drops to about 13.3 fully hot and beat on. Totally normal.

And yes, my tuner has datalogs to verify the voltage drop. This was before I knew about all of this. I'm not wiping any smart asses ass. Do the homework like I did. You'll feel like a ass when you find out. :thumbsup:

 

[ttk53]

\

Do some more homework. That's what google/search button is for.

It IS totally normal for voltage to drop as car warms up and battery goes into a charged state. Mine starts about 14.5, then drops to about 13.3 fully hot and beat on. Totally normal.

And yes, my tuner has datalogs to verify the voltage drop. This was before I knew about all of this. I'm not wiping any smart asses ass. Do the homework like I did. You'll feel like a ass when you find out. :thumbsup:

Please post data showing that the alt is shut off. This by far would be the dumbest thing I have ever seen.

WHEN NOT ONE WIRE GOES BACK TO THE PCM?????????

 

[highcompression]

Please post data showing that the alt is shut off. This by far would be the dumbest thing I have ever seen.

WHEN NOT ONE WIRE GOES BACK TO THE PCM?????????

Dig a little deeper into the alternator grasshopper.

 

[START 'N CHARGE]

Please post data showing that the alt is shut off. This by far would be the dumbest thing I have ever seen.

WHEN NOT ONE WIRE GOES BACK TO THE PCM?????????

You sir,are correct!:beer:

 

[ttk53]

Dig a little deeper into the alternator grasshopper.

You sir,are correct!:beer:

I rest my case :beer: grasshopper

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Dig a little deeper into the alternator grasshopper.

You are the one who needs to dig a little deeper.
And when you find your "proof" post it.

Otherwise you are just repeating flawed information.

Post the proof or apologize for repeating untrue information that you thought was from a credible source. It probably was a credible source, but they may just be wrong about this one little thing and every other thing they were right on.

It happens, nobody is perfect. However it is time to show the proof.

 

[Brutal Metal]

^^Jimmy I think the wisdom of post #13 already has that taken care of, I think he'd know, haha!
I have plenty of WOT datalogs that show voltage 13.5+ so if the Alt shuts off??

 

[ttk53]

You are the one who needs to dig a little deeper.
And when you find your "proof" post it.

Otherwise you are just repeating flawed information.

Post the proof or apologize for repeating untrue information that you thought was from a credible source. It probably was a credible source, but they may just be wrong about this one little thing and every other thing they were right on.

It happens, nobody is perfect. However it is time to show the proof.

^^Jimmy I think the wisdom of post #13 already has that taken care of, I think he'd know, haha!
I have plenty of WOT datalogs that show voltage 13.5+ so if the Alt shuts off??

Wonder where the all know guy went?:banana:

 

[03cobra#694]

^^Jimmy I think the wisdom of post #13 already has that taken care of, I think he'd know, haha!
I have plenty of WOT datalogs that show voltage 13.5+ so if the Alt shuts off??

Yep

 

[90goldtsiawd]

My car car has a PA alternator that has about 3560miles on it. It has been pretty cool/cold here as far as temperatures are concerned. However my alternator is running around 14.5v on wot then drops to 13.6v. Is this normal or should i be concerned? Does this high voltage affect things like A/F etc?

Thanx

Maybe if you up the boost on your alternator with your boost controller on your eaton you'll have enough power to pull wheelies in 3rd gear!

 

[1wild-horse]

Fords didnt have a smart charge system until the 190 pin PCM in 2004 F-150's. So anything with a 104 pin PCM cobras included are not controlled by the PCM, period.