My NASA AIX "outlaw" race car

99COBRA2881

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Sounds like a fun day at the track. Do you need to make many changes to run AI?

I need to get AI and TOYO TIRES decals, swap to a ported stock intake(I need more tq and to drop about 20 HP) then delete the ABS.

wow thats my dream exhaust!!!!! i have side exit but when i get sub frame connectors i was planning on doing what you did. I have a mac off road pipe and it helped quiet it down a little since it has a muffler. Car looks great!

With the SFCs on the car and the ride height its at there was no way to run normal side exhaust. I didnt want the stock exhaust routing running underneath the IRS diff.

Once you get ready to do yours send me a PM and I can get measurements of where I cut the holes at to take some of the guess work out of the job. 4" and 2-1/2" hole saw required.
 

TXPD

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its easier to delete the abs from your car than mine. hey, pretty soon you can be one of those "if you cant drive without abs, you shouldnt be racing" guys that ai has spawned in the last couple of years.
 

99COBRA2881

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its easier to delete the abs from your car than mine. hey, pretty soon you can be one of those "if you cant drive without abs, you shouldnt be racing" guys that ai has spawned in the last couple of years.

Rob,
It is pretty easy. I bought a used ABS delete block off ebay for $50. If the ABS/HP rule changes make the cars even I dont care what the other guy has. Hopefully the rules work as intended.

:beer:
Anthony
 

TXPD

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Rob,
It is pretty easy. I bought a used ABS delete block off ebay for $50. If the ABS/HP rule changes make the cars even I dont care what the other guy has. Hopefully the rules work as intended.

:beer:
Anthony

you seem to already understand that that abs rules are meant to outlaw them. there is no chance that abs is worth the weight brake given the non-abs cars.

in an 05 and newer car the abs is part of a comprehensive system. if you turn off the abs, you turn off the front to rear proportioning among other things. i would have to replace my entire brake system and won't do it.

meanwhile today's race cars in grand am continental challenge and world challenge, cars that would see their way to nasa and other club racing as time goes by ALL have this intagrated abs brake systems.

i will run aix or st2 or leave for the scca before i rip an entire brake system out of a perfectly good race car.
 

99COBRA2881

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Toyos are mounted up, AI/TOYO decals are going on tomorrow. I'll also be welding a bolt through the pass side floor/subframe connector to bolt ballast in with.

ABS is still in the car, I figure I ought to keep it until I figure out the RA-1s. Ive never been on track on them before.

Looks like were going to have 5 AI cars at Mid-America this next weekend. Should be some good contingency if we all show up.
 

brkntrxn

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I ran a set of RA1s on the Z06 for a while as practice tires. They behaved very similar to NT01s imo.
 

99COBRA2881

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First AI weekend started out great. 5 cars in AI which is pretty good for the start up NASA Central region. Then 12 laps in on the saturday morning race the engine blew up. Driver side valve cover has a huge hole in it where the timing chain hit it.

Tear down will start in a few days. Hope to be back by September or sooner.
 

racebronco2

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Sorry to hear about your engine problems. I have a few sets of heads and valve cover that i could give you a good deal on.
 

99COBRA2881

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Thanks I'll keep that in mind. Would you have a set of valve covers? Mine were powder coated black when I got them so Im going to replace both.

Im not sure where Im going with this build yet. Im tempted to yank the ECU out of the bitch, go to a carbed Ford Racing boss 347 and be done with the modular headache all together.

Then again I like the mod motors, I just dont know what it takes to build one that will hold up to road racing, I thought I did know until yesterday. The first engine really had every advantage, Melling oil pump, billet crank trigger, 7qt baffled road race oil pan, accusump, oil changed after every race weekend. The only thing it didnt have was an external oil cooler but I think the new motor will get one.

Im interested to see what I'll find once the engine comes out.
 

TXPD

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i have a spare 5L cammer engine that was fresh when it burned a piston. it needs 1 piston and is ready to go back together.

would you like to consider that?
 

99COBRA2881

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Thanks Rob, I'll have to do some checking but did that block start out as a 4.6l and get honed/sleeved to 5.0L? The AI rules dont allow FMS aluminum blocks.
 

TXPD

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Thanks Rob, I'll have to do some checking but did that block start out as a 4.6l and get honed/sleeved to 5.0L? The AI rules dont allow FMS aluminum blocks.

i think they have changed that rule. that rule was against pushrod blocks.

i know of several of these cammer engines that have raced ai at the nationals.

of course you are running aix outlaw and i have no clue what there rules are.

the boss 302 engines are aluminum blocks and ai legal....btw.
 
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99COBRA2881

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hahaha dont be so brutal, I dropped the idea of running AIX or outlaw. Car now has AI and toyo tire decals on it.

Thanks for the info on the cammer block being legal.

june001.jpg


june002.jpg


june005.jpg


and the hole in the valve cover. WTF???

june003.jpg
 
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racebronco2

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To me it looks like the cam bolt is missing, that's what went thru the valve cover. Did you use loc-tite on it? Hopefully that's all the damage.
 

99COBRA2881

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Yeah I used blue on all the cam bolts. I took the pic then I saw the smoking gun.

either way im going to have a few beers tonight, then a few more. Im feeling pretty damn sick that this was something so simple and it fuct up so much.
 

racebronco2

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Don't be so hard on yourself, i'm sure we all have made mistakes that costs us money. I have made plenty of them.
 

99COBRA2881

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I'll get it back together, just sucks.

Going back with ARP bolts/ washers on the end of all four cams. The FR500 cams use 10mm hardware which suprised me when I first built this motor and now it pisses me off that FR thought a 10mm cam bolt was a good idea.

RoushYates drills the cams and taps them for a stud/12 point nut on their Daytona Prototype engines. Depending on what I find I very well may take the cams off the heads and have them drilled/tapped for a 1/2" ARP stud.
 
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