The 10mm bolt has been used since about 2001. There are plenty of cars with the 10mm bolt that don't seem to have a problem.
My NASA AIX "outlaw" race car
- Thread starter 99COBRA2881
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The 10mm bolt has been used since about 2001. There are plenty of cars with the 10mm bolt that don't seem to have a problem.
Yeah, I wish mine were one of them.
Is there enough room for the bolt to back out or did the bolt break?
I think the bolt backed out, I felt around in the cam sprocket and I couldnt feel any bolt but that may not be the case. Engine is going on the stand this weekend and heads are going to the engine shop to be checked over. Might go back with Ti retainers.
May as well upgrade a few things since Im back into the engine this soon.
May as well upgrade a few things since Im back into the engine this soon.
Update: The engine is about ready to come out, I had been beating myself up the entire time that I didnt use loctite or enough loctite and the camshaft bolt backed out.
I was mopping up oil in the driver side area where the battery used to be and guess what?? I found the little broken 10mm bolt. So **** Ford for ever thinking a 10mm cam bolt was a good idea.
Sean Hyland was right on in his book where he didnt recommend the 10mm bolt. I shouldve bought the ARP bolts to begin with.
I ordered the 10mm ARP bolts this morning. I wont make this mistake again.
:fm:
I was mopping up oil in the driver side area where the battery used to be and guess what?? I found the little broken 10mm bolt. So **** Ford for ever thinking a 10mm cam bolt was a good idea.
Sean Hyland was right on in his book where he didnt recommend the 10mm bolt. I shouldve bought the ARP bolts to begin with.
I ordered the 10mm ARP bolts this morning. I wont make this mistake again.
:fm:
That makes me feel a little better after reading through this, I used ARP cam bolt on my FR500 kit and red loctite, figured I wasn't going to be taking it apart any time soon. But there again next time its a SBF, less complicated, you know KISS. Thanks for the write up, now lets see some details of the exhaust,
ala: DariusRudius.
Update please
BTW are you running a diff cooler,and/or a Torsen?
Engine is out. Damage is worse than I had first thought.
Secondary chain was just laying on top of the camshaft sprockets, it has a broken link. Driver side exhaust cam sprocket is in three pieces. Secondary chain tensioner puked its guts out when the chain broke for whatever reason.
My plan is to pull the head and see how messed up the head is. Im going to regret sticking with the mod motor.
Ill try to get a writeup on the exhaust it was nothing to difficult just time consuming. That and sucking it up and just cutting a hole in the side of the car already.
Secondary chain was just laying on top of the camshaft sprockets, it has a broken link. Driver side exhaust cam sprocket is in three pieces. Secondary chain tensioner puked its guts out when the chain broke for whatever reason.
My plan is to pull the head and see how messed up the head is. Im going to regret sticking with the mod motor.
Ill try to get a writeup on the exhaust it was nothing to difficult just time consuming. That and sucking it up and just cutting a hole in the side of the car already.
I have some valves and stock springs if you need them. I have taken apart a few 4v's that broke a chain and the valves had kissed the pistons. Only two valves were bent each time.
Thanks Carlos,
Im not sure where to get replacement parts at yet cause I have the Fr500 cams/springs.
Do the valve springs need replaced too after PtV contact?
Im not sure where to get replacement parts at yet cause I have the Fr500 cams/springs.
Do the valve springs need replaced too after PtV contact?
Look into the accufab reverse tensioner kit, has HD secondary chains in addition to the reverse tensioner. Uses only stock gears. My gut tell me it's less expensive to rebuild/improve what you have vs. going SBF route but that's w/o a thorough review.
George,
As of now thats my plan. Im hoping the heads and block/rotating assembly are ok. Its going on the stand this evening. I hope to get the driver side head off tomorrow evening and check out the damage.
I think the T45 is even getting a few upgrades possibly while its out. TheT45 Source sells a front plate that replaces the pain in the ass integral bell housing and lets a guy use a quicktime bell housing. This should make servicing the clutch and pulling the trans or engine much easier next time around.
Anyone have some FR500 intake and exhaust valves they wanna sell?
I believe this is the valve manufacturer:
Ferrea Racing Components ? High Quality Valves & Valvetrain Components
IIRC they were made in Argentina
Hope this helps.
BTW,Where did you secure the hood latches, nice look?
Greg,
I appreciate the link, I also heard they were made in Argentina. I hope theyre a serviceable part.
AeroCatch.net eBay store I bought them off ebay. Theyre the real aerocatch brand, not the cheap knockoffs that have flooded ebay recently. Best 4 hours Ive ever spent installing hood latches. Lots of measuring, remeasuring and cutting involved.
I appreciate the link, I also heard they were made in Argentina. I hope theyre a serviceable part.
AeroCatch.net eBay store I bought them off ebay. Theyre the real aerocatch brand, not the cheap knockoffs that have flooded ebay recently. Best 4 hours Ive ever spent installing hood latches. Lots of measuring, remeasuring and cutting involved.
My apologies for the bump, but are there updates on your car for this season?
Somehow not a single valve hit a piston even though the driver side secondary timing chain broke and the pass side tensioner dowel also snapped off. Both heads came off and the pass side head had to be sent off to have the exh. cam journals honed. Seems pulling slack out of the timing chains to get the cams degreed was the cause of the front cam journal getting wiped out. It placed to much pressure on the journal and wiped it out.
Engine is still on the stand. I cant seem to catch a warm weekend where I can put the heads back on. Nice during the week, cold and shitty on the weekends. Id like for the temp in my garage to be around 60-70° when I bolt the heads back on.
Once the heads are back on, Ill get cams degreed (correctly this time around) slap the valve covers back on and have it ready to drop back in. I need to check the starter engagement to the flywheel with the new QT bell housing. I have a spare T45 I'll be hauling to the track with me from now on.
Other than that its just small things. Im going to wrap the exhaust inside the car and attach some heat shields over pipes to help block radiant heat inside the car. Driver side floor underneath the seat is also getting some heat insulation installed. Raced last summer when it was about 95° and it was terrible inside that car.
I've got a few other really neat mods in the plans. The car will also have a sequential shift light on the dash above the stock gauges. Oil temp gauge has been upgraded from a 250° to a 300° gauge. The 250° gauge maxed out last summer but I figure thats due to the cam bearing getting wiped out.
Car will have a front splitter installed to help offset the downforce from the rear wing.
Damn I have a lot left to do now that I type it all out, but thats what the week before the race thrash is all about!!
Edit
Also still have to finish porting the stock cobra intake manifold. Im hoping it will get some mid range tq back versus the short runner FR500 intake. The 302 based pushrod motors just make too much torque off the corners. That and a dyno certification to make me AI legal.
Im on the fence about dumping ABS, fixed tire budget and all. Maybe next year for that mod.
Engine is still on the stand. I cant seem to catch a warm weekend where I can put the heads back on. Nice during the week, cold and shitty on the weekends. Id like for the temp in my garage to be around 60-70° when I bolt the heads back on.
Once the heads are back on, Ill get cams degreed (correctly this time around) slap the valve covers back on and have it ready to drop back in. I need to check the starter engagement to the flywheel with the new QT bell housing. I have a spare T45 I'll be hauling to the track with me from now on.
Other than that its just small things. Im going to wrap the exhaust inside the car and attach some heat shields over pipes to help block radiant heat inside the car. Driver side floor underneath the seat is also getting some heat insulation installed. Raced last summer when it was about 95° and it was terrible inside that car.
I've got a few other really neat mods in the plans. The car will also have a sequential shift light on the dash above the stock gauges. Oil temp gauge has been upgraded from a 250° to a 300° gauge. The 250° gauge maxed out last summer but I figure thats due to the cam bearing getting wiped out.
Car will have a front splitter installed to help offset the downforce from the rear wing.
Damn I have a lot left to do now that I type it all out, but thats what the week before the race thrash is all about!!
Edit
Also still have to finish porting the stock cobra intake manifold. Im hoping it will get some mid range tq back versus the short runner FR500 intake. The 302 based pushrod motors just make too much torque off the corners. That and a dyno certification to make me AI legal.
Im on the fence about dumping ABS, fixed tire budget and all. Maybe next year for that mod.
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I would think there was something else causing the cam journal to get damaged. What makes you think it's because of the cams being timed. Did you oil the cams journals before you timed the cams. Was it something you did incorrectly? I have timed about 7 engines so far and none of them had cam journal problems.
I pulled too much slack out of the pass side timing chain while trying to degree the cams, this caused the cam to deflect and chew down into the front cam journal. This came straight from an engine builder that said hes only seen this happen when the above occurs.
Lesson learned. Ill file keyways this time.
Lesson learned. Ill file keyways this time.
Thanks.
So how many classes does NASA have now? AI, CMC, AIX and now AI outlaw?
I'd just be happy to have a couple of CMC cars show up in Florida.
What's the difference between AI AIX and AI Outlaw? starting to sound like the NMRA , a ton of classes and no cars.
Good luck with it, beautiful car.
I'd just be happy to have a couple of CMC cars show up in Florida.
What's the difference between AI AIX and AI Outlaw? starting to sound like the NMRA , a ton of classes and no cars.
Good luck with it, beautiful car.
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