Magnum XL going in

darreng505

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I had the same complaints. It was a long journey but the following has 100% transformed my driving/clutch experience.

a) change fluid often, 1-2 times per month, 1 $5 can from auto parts store
b) remove helper spring
c) installed clutch return spring
d) mgw shifter
e) Amsoil mtg fluid swap
f) jhr stainless replacement line.
g) bleed brake system every 5k miles.

With all that, i'm able to shift at 7500 routinely on motor and on nitrous and have 0 nibble or cold shift issues.

Hope that helps

I did all that (except remove the helper spring) and my MT-82 broke. :uh oh:

Do you track your car or just DD?
 

JUIC3D

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I did all that (except remove the helper spring) and my MT-82 broke. :uh oh:

Do you track your car or just DD?

I street race and track(dragstrip) the car pretty much any time I drive it. I don't technically daily drive it since my wife and I work at the same office and we drive her Honda.

I bought the car brand new on 3/15/2013 and I just turned over 9,000 miles which equates to roughly 2250 miles per month. Of the 9000 miles, roughly 6500 have been with nitrous on the car. :beer:
 

darreng505

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I just bought the Motive 3.90 gears and bearings, etc.

Should give me better throttle management, some additional RPMs in overdrive.

Thoughts?
 

AZBOSS

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You don't do that? Thought it was also common to bleed the brake system weekly to ensure the clutch fluid was clean and fresh.

I typically only bleed brakes once each day during track weekends (typically one per month), the rest is based on # of weekends or # of hours used.

I just bought the Motive 3.90 gears and bearings, etc.

Should give me better throttle management, some additional RPMs in overdrive.

Thoughts?

Not sure if that's going to be much of a change from 3.73s; I'd probably look at 4.10s or 4.30s.
 
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darreng505

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I typically only bleed brakes once each day during track weekends (typically one per month), the rest is based on # of weekends or # of hours used.



Not sure if that's going to be much of a change from 3.73s; I'd probably look at 4.10s or 4.30s.

It's not much change, but I'm fine tuning at this point. Need to shift the RPM power band slightly and I'm willing to give up some top-end gearing MPH for that. The 3.73's are good, but with my 2.66 tremec I need just a tad more RPMs in the band.
 

darreng505

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I'll be getting the car back today with the 3.90 built rear (bearings, etc.). Will report. Needed just a tad more RPM's and wheel torque.
 

JUIC3D

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3.90s+2.66 gear set is going to make for some nice long gears. Assuming a 27" tall tire and 7500rpm rev limiter, you'll be able to hit 154mph in 4th gear :)
 

darreng505

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JUIC3D

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Bumping this--OP, how are you liking it? I'm gonna be ordering my T56 shortly. So far so good? I was a little bummed to learn it doesn't come with upgraded carbon blocker rings and other typical tremec upgraded parts. For $4,000 it seemed like a no brainer. I had those in my last car and I really enjoyed the different from the standard rings.

Any idea what it takes to change the 5th/6th? If I remember right, it should be as simple as pulling off the tailshaft housing and replacing the drive and driven gears on their respective shafts.

Thanks in advance
 

darreng505

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Bumping this--OP, how are you liking it? I'm gonna be ordering my T56 shortly. So far so good? I was a little bummed to learn it doesn't come with upgraded carbon blocker rings and other typical tremec upgraded parts. For $4,000 it seemed like a no brainer. I had those in my last car and I really enjoyed the different from the standard rings.

Any idea what it takes to change the 5th/6th? If I remember right, it should be as simple as pulling off the tailshaft housing and replacing the drive and driven gears on their respective shafts.

Thanks in advance

Its great. Smooth, fast shifts but with good tactile feedback.
No lockout at high rpm. I'm not sure what the 5th/6th swap will take but it was an extra $425 so that tells me about 3-4 hours labor. The trans is more around $3500 retail.
As for the upgraded parts they sound nice but the magnum is a beast that can handle 700lb/ft of torque so its pretty stout with its internals already maybe.
 

JUIC3D

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Its great. Smooth, fast shifts but with good tactile feedback.
No lockout at high rpm. I'm not sure what the 5th/6th swap will take but it was an extra $425 so that tells me about 3-4 hours labor. The trans is more around $3500 retail.
As for the upgraded parts they sound nice but the magnum is a beast that can handle 700lb/ft of torque so its pretty stout with its internals already maybe.

I rebuilt the TR6060 in my corvette when the output shaft broke so I'm well-versed in their assembly/disassembly. I don't think there's anything extra you need besides the correct pairing of drive/driven gears. I could be mistaken though.

How high are you spinning the motor? Does the shifting effort change from 5, 6, 65, or 7500?

Regarding the beef--I didn't mean upgrades as far as strength, but more shifting smoothness etc with the carbon blocker rings versus the bronze. Here's a pic. Bronze vs Carbon.

Carbon friction material for a better 'grab' and they removed some of the blocker ring teeth to allow for faster shifting with no 'nibble.'

IMG_1097.jpg
 
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darreng505

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One of my chief issues with the Getrag unit was shifting into 5th at 7300rpm was like trying to pry a rusty hood open with a crow bar. The magnum doesn't have this affliction. Same effort across gears across rpms. I run constantly between 5500-7500 on track. However because of my 3.90 rear gears I use primarily 3rd & 4th only. Maybe dropping to 2nd once briefly on turn 4 at vir.
 

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