Low numbers after cam install

[LS WUT]

I mean since you’re strong arming me. I’ll still take it for you.

 

[Deceptive]

It’s a new blower from the last time I actually had it tuned/on the road.

It makes boost initially. But dropped significantly around 4k rpms. I think if the intake was cracked it would have a hard time making it at all.

Every gasket has been changed. Vac lines checked and sprayed. Boost actuator is operating correctly. No signs of leaks.

What about valve springs?? Is there any scenario they could be the culprit? They are literally the only thing that hasn’t been changed between the two sets of cams.


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What springs are in there?

Have you had anyone combover a datalog and dyno sheet to see if they can see anything?

Could there be a leak that happens once the system starts seeing boost?


Does two women scissoring sound like an armpit farting contest?

 

[PC03GT]

After cam swap the car is still dropping boost.

Figured it would. I’m not sure what I’m going to do. This is absolutely frustrating.


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How much boost did you lose

 

[NateDogg]

I’ll call the shop tomorrow and get specific details.

I’m traveling right now.


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[DSG2003Mach1]

If the springs were weak I feel like they’d still need more than 4K to give up the ghost

 

[44shelby]

How much boost?

 

[03cobra#2]

Most of the time belt slip will start at around 4k or so. When I got my combo together I was getting 25/26 lbs right off the hit. By 6500 rpm I was down to 19 lbs. Went to a shorter belt and had my upper pulley carbonite coated and now holds 25 lbs right to 7200 rpm.


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[biminiLX]

Most of the time belt slip will start at around 4k or so. When I got my combo together I was getting 25/26 lbs right off the hit. By 6500 rpm I was down to 19 lbs. Went to a shorter belt and had my upper pulley carbonite coated and now holds 25 lbs right to 7200 rpm.


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This but have you discussed with Whipple?
Outside of belt slip or a defective blower I’m not seeing an easy answer here.
Good luck man myself and most here want to set them on fire at least once or you’re just not hot rodding hard enough
-J

 

[03' White Snake]

Smoke the entire intake and blower and look for leaks. Use a hand held vacuum pump and check for all vacuum lines for leaks, check the bypass by itself with hand pump. It has to be something you or the shop is missing.

How much boost is it pullied for and how much is it actually making?

 

[NateDogg]

I haven’t called yet, but I think it’s time to cut my losses get the car back and take it somewhere else.

Anyone have a recommended shop in Central Florida?


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[01yellercobra]

I haven’t called yet, but I think it’s time to cut my losses get the car back and take it somewhere else.

Anyone have a recommended shop in Central Florida?


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That was actually going to be my next post. At this point I'd get it back and depending on how you feel when you see it throw it under a cover for a bit.

 

[IllCobra]

I haven’t called yet, but I think it’s time to cut my losses get the car back and take it somewhere else.

Anyone have a recommended shop in Central Florida?


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I think it's already been mentioned, but Modular Head Shop seem to know these motors pretty well.

 

[DCguy]

MHS, MPR, VMP etc are all in FL and specialize in mod motors

 

[44shelby]

sounds like a belt slip issue. stock tensioner tensioner?

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

MHS, MPR, VMP etc are all in FL and specialize in mod motors

MPR is just a motor shop though, not sure if MHS does repair/diagnostic work or not

VMP does tuning on site, not sure about mechanical work but worth asking. You could also give Jake over at LaMotta a call. He comes off a little short/gruff but he knows mustangs and has done solid work for me.

 

[Blkkbgt]

I am going to take a massive shot in the dark and also say I am most likely wrong but here goes.

Doesn't the 2.9 whipple have 2 plugs that need to be installed where the blower bolts to the manifold?

I thought these plugs were critical to allow the blower to be sealed to the manifold?

If the above is correct are you sure they are installed?

Again sorry if this is wrong, just trying to help.

 

[SVTdreamin04]

Smoke test? Give that a try. Boost, as you well already know is the measurement of restriction for the most part. Smoke testing works better than the spray technique.


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[01yellercobra]

I am going to take a massive shot in the dark and also say I am most likely wrong but here goes.

Doesn't the 2.9 whipple have 2 plugs that need to be installed where the blower bolts to the manifold?

I thought these plugs were critical to allow the blower to be sealed to the manifold?

If the above is correct are you sure they are installed?

Again sorry if this is wrong, just trying to help.

You might be thinking of the two bolts that hold the EGR bracket on. They seal the inlet elbow. The car would idle like crap if those weren't in there. Learned that one the hard way.

 

[44shelby]

Best way to check for a vacuum leak is to start the car and get a can of starting fluid and just do small squirts behind the blower. If it revs up then you know you have an issue.

On a side note if you have one of the vacuum lines crossed in the back like the boost gauge and the a/c line that could potentially cause an issue. Check to see if your a/c works properly that would be a tale tale sign

 

[NateDogg]

What springs are in there?

Have you had anyone combover a datalog and dyno sheet to see if they can see anything?

Could there be a leak that happens once the system starts seeing boost?


Does two women scissoring sound like an armpit farting contest?

Supertech/Apocalypse 4v springs for stock retainers (drop-in)

apocalypseperformance.com

These are the springs that came with the cam package I purchased from TW. The leak is for sure happening when boost is present. Car runs and idles and even drives fine until you make boost.

Most of the time belt slip will start at around 4k or so. When I got my combo together I was getting 25/26 lbs right off the hit. By 6500 rpm I was down to 19 lbs. Went to a shorter belt and had my upper pulley carbonite coated and now holds 25 lbs right to 7200 rpm.


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We did have some slip initially, this has been fixed. New belt, new roush tensioner and a RR pulley.

Best way to check for a vacuum leak is to start the car and get a can of starting fluid and just do small squirts behind the blower. If it revs up then you know you have an issue.

On a side note if you have one of the vacuum lines crossed in the back like the boost gauge and the a/c line that could potentially cause an issue. Check to see if your a/c works properly that would be a tale tale sign

We have smoked and used starting fluid. No leaks under idle vacuum.

Anyone have success using something like this

I figure I could throw that on rpush some psi with shop air to find where it is leaking.

Sorry for the late response, but I really appreciate everyone throwing out ideas to help. I'm a little bummed about swapping out the cams for no reasons, but the Stage 3 cams sound better than the custom cams LOL. So that's a plus.