LC1 Wide band Gauge Install tips w/PICS

[SSeatr]

So I ordered my IEEE-1394 wire from firefold and the pins dont match the color on the SCT diagram below..

SO here is the correct color to pin..at least for the cable they sent me.

1 Yellow - Not Used
2 Blue - Ground
3 White - Analog 1
4 Black - Analog 1 Ground
5 Red - Analog 2
6 Green - Analog 2 Ground

I would recommend checking before you solder or crimp everything thinking its the same as the diagram.

 

[03cobra#694]

^^^Yup, gotta check the colors vs. the pins. A multi meter works well for this.
Good Info

 

[joseph.devenney]

I have a question about reading A/F with the Xcal 2 if someone could please fill me in. I recently spliced the 9 pin mini din cable into my LC-1 harness and was under the impression that was the only cable I needed to read my A/F while logging. I'm getting different readings between my gauge and the laptop and am thinking it may just be a ground problem. I just want to make sure that there is no other cables I may need.
The A/F gauge is a speedhut with the LC-1 control box that was previously installed and working fine so I'm sure it has nothing to do with that. Any input would be appreciated as I'm sure someone has run into this before. Thanks!

 

[Mustang Matt]

Check out the section on offsetting the ground on page 17.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

Also here:
LC-1/LM-1 Integration into SCT’s Xcal 2:: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes

 

[joseph.devenney]

I think my problem may be that I spliced the ground wire off of the mini din cable to the blue ground wire off of the LC-1, which are grounded near the fuses under the steering wheel. If I run the ground wire on the din cable to the engine this should fix my problem I hope...?

 

[Mustang Matt]

I don't think it matters where you ground it as long as you follow the offset procedure and program the controller appropriately.

 

[joseph.devenney]

I don't think it matters where you ground it as long as you follow the offset procedure and program the controller appropriately.

I would think the LC-1 was programmed properly because the gauge works fine. Or does it need to be programmed again after you install the cable? I'm about to take it to Houston because this tuning with Amazon with no A/F isn't working.

 

[Mustang Matt]

The gauge is (serial) digital, the xcal hookup is analog.

Analog has to have the ground calibrated. If you look at those instructions I posted there is a section on it.

 

[joseph.devenney]

The gauge is (serial) digital, the xcal hookup is analog.

Analog has to have the ground calibrated. If you look at those instructions I posted there is a section on it.

I do not have a digital gauge. Does that make a difference? And thanks for posting those, I just wanted to be reassured before I ordered those cables I was missing in order to hook up to the LM programmer.

 

[Mustang Matt]

Which gauge is it? It doesn't use the serial out from the lc1?

 

[joseph.devenney]

The serial in and out from the LC1 are tucked away unused by the hood latch release. My gauges are speedhut.

 

[Mustang Matt]

It's really odd that you're getting a different reading then. I need to reread your posts and see if I missed something.

 

[c6zhombre]

I would think the LC-1 was programmed properly because the gauge works fine. Or does it need to be programmed again after you install the cable? I'm about to take it to Houston because this tuning with Amazon with no A/F isn't working.

I'm going to look at joe's car tomorrow and try and figure this out. It is my understanding that the lc1 yellow ana1 out is default narrowband and the lc1 brown ana2 out is default wideband (0v = 7.35 afr, 5v = 22.39 afr). I believe the brown ana2 is going to his speedhut gauge that seems to work fine....while the yellow ana1 is the wire he soldered with the appropriate mini din colored wire. I'm going to load the lm programmer software and check the settings on analog1 to make sure it's setup as afr and not lambda, then set the range to 10.0 - 16.0, and change the response speed to 1/3 per 04sleeper's recommendations. Really hoping this fixes the issue.

 

[04sleeper]

Let me know what you come up with.

Here is the manual for the LC-1.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...PWFNpyINP1qg3khX0mJP8iQ&bvm=bv.42965579,d.b2U

Here is some good information about setting it up to datalog as well.
LC-1/LM-1 Integration into SCT’s Xcal 2:: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes

 

[04sleeper]

Oh, I had to buy some special adapter at Fry's Electronics to hook the LC-1 up to my laptop since it didn't have the proper connector. The LC-1 uses an old "Pin Type" plug and my laptop only had USB. The connector converts the "Pin Plug" to USB.

A pain for sure.

This is why I recommend using the NGK AFX now. Much easier.

 

[c6zhombre]

Good call on the USB to serial db9 connector, Kevin...sure enough, my toshiba laptop is going to need it. Gees, foiled at every turn lol. No fryes down here...I hope wallyland has one or I might try RadioShack.

After looking at Joe's datalogs from last summer and the issues he had with capturing a solid ana1 reading, it dawned on me that it was similar to Thaddeus' issues. I know for a fact both of those lc1 vehicles have never had the lc1 reprogrammed with the lm software for the ana1 setup. Crossing my fingers this fixes Joe's today and Thaddeus's on Friday

 

[04sleeper]

I actually have the cable still and software installation disc. I don't even use it any more.

If you don't find one let me know and I wil ship it to you.

 

[c6zhombre]

I actually have the cable still and software installation disc. I don't even use it any more.

If you don't find one let me know and I wil ship it to you.

I struck out at wallyworld, radio shack, and bestbuy....but found it at some place called Altex. I have the software on the laptop already.

Appreciate the offer tho! I'll let you know what happens tonight. :beer:

 

[04sleeper]

I struck out at wallyworld, radio shack, and bestbuy....but found it at some place called Altex. I have the software on the laptop already.

Appreciate the offer tho! I'll let you know what happens tonight. :beer:

Sounds good. Let me know.

 

[c6zhombre]

A few things of note I've learned the last few days...some by the hard way lol

-Make sure the key is off, the rca to db9/ubs adaptor cable is plugged into your laptop before keying the power on. This is the serial "out" from the LC1

-Nothing, I mean no changes will "save" on LM Programmer without the 2.5mm terminator plug securely fastened to the serial "in" off the lc1. Leave this attached at all times.

-When entering in the LM Programmer "analog 1" and "analog 2" tab screens...there are selections for "use Lambda" or "use air fuel". This is for demonstration purposes ONLY. Once you save the settings you choose by selecting "program", turn the key off, unplug the db9/ubs and serial "out" line, and then turn the power back on to run the lc1.....the next time you go back into LM Programmer, the range will be reverted back to Lambda! Just for reference....using air fuel range min 7.35 to max 22.39 is the Lambda equivalent of spreading the voltage over Lambda min .500 to Lambda max of 1.523. If you decide to "tighten" the range a bit, such as air fuel 10.0 to 16.0.....the Lambda equivalent is .680 to 1.088. This is all assuming you are using a wideband range of 0.00 to 5.00 voltage.

-If you are instructed or "accidentally" hit the selection on the entry page of LM Programmer called "reset calibration"...it means just that LOL! You will have to pull the bung sensor, do a heater calibration and free air calibration just like a new or replacing sensor setup. Don't press that button unless you really mean it...there's no secondary warning screen...it will be done.

Hope this info helps some people. The manual and tech line help to innovate is somewhat vague.

Best of luck :beer: