Here are some pics of how I ran my wires and made a ground for my LC1 and wide band gauge. This really isn't a specific How-To. It's just to help some people that have questions on running a good ground and where to hide there LC1. This is my first attempt at anything like this so cut me some slack. I had a muffler shop weld in my bung ahead of time. Here is where mine is located.(driver side 2 o'clock)
First thing I did was remove my shifter bezel. I cut a small slit in the rubber shift boot and pushed the end (with the O2 sensor) through the hole.
The O2 sensor can then be pulled from the top of the tranny and pulled down so that you have enough slack to screw it into your bung on exhaust pipe.(You will not screw the sensor in yet because the LC1 has to be calibrated first. Just let it hang there like in my pic.)
I took my LC1 unit and tucked it in the shifter bezel. Just make sure you are able to shift the gears without the unit or the wires getting in the way.
I then ran the wires of the LC1 right down through the console.
Here is the way I mounted my gauge, calibration button, and LED light.
Just drilled 2 holes the size of the push button an LED and fed the wires through.
Next, I took the red wire from the LED and connected it to one of the black wires from the push button. I then connected them to one 5ft 18 gauge wire. This will connect to the BLACK calibration wire of the LC1.
Then I took the black wire from the LED and connected it to the other black wire of the push button. I also connected these 2 wires to another SEPARATE 18 gauge wire. This will connect to your ground(Terminal strip)
This elongates your wires and gives you the freedom to reach all of the other connections. Quick pic of the 2 wires(yellow)
Now to create a ground.
I went to Radio Shack and bought a Terminal strip (part #274-670) and a jumper strip (part #274-650)
Pic of Terminal strip(top) and jumper strip.
I also picked up a loop connector to fit a 3/8 SS bolt, 3/8 bolt, 10-13ft of ground wire.(10-18gauge), and the heat protective covering for the wire.
I ran 13 feet of ground wire through the protective sheath and soldered on the loop connector. I then pushed the loop connector through the same slit the O2 sensor went through earlier. I then pulled it through from underneath the car(on top of tranny) and pulled enough through to reach the pre threaded hole in the engine block.( It is located right next to the rear engine mount. Then I took the 3/8 bolt, put the loop connector on and screwed it into the hole.
Pics of engine ground
fed through shift boot
Connected to engine ground
What was left after I attached the ground bolt an pulled the slack up. Ignore the yellow wire. That is my ground from my other Lunar gauges.
I soldered a connector to the other end of the ground to attach it to the terminal strip.
Now everything is in place and ready to be wired. You can mount the terminal strip wherever you want. Some people mounted them in the shifter bezel and some under the dash. I'm going to mount mine under the dash and tuck the wires away. Just personal preference.
Follow the directions from Innovate for wiring and calibration.
Here is how I had it wired. Pics of the wiring are in Post #13. DISCLAIMER- this is how I wired it. Follow Innovate's directions.
Wired it like this:
LC1
black-to wire created from the red LED wire and black push button
blue-ground
white-ground
yellow- taped off
red-power
brown-white(gauge
gauge
white-brown(LC1)
yellow- taped off
black-ground
red-power
push button/led
black from push button-black on LED------connected these to ground
Red from LED- other black from push button-----connected to BLACK calibration wire of LC1
There are 2 different ways I saw the yellow wires that were not used delt with. I've seen them taped up or grounded. I just taped them up. If you want to be able to dim the gauge, follow the included directions. I do not want to dim the gauge.
For power, I'm pretty sure you can tap into any 12v switched source. It has to be something that powers up when you turn the key on and has consistant power but has NO power when the key is off. It also should be at the least a 10 amp This is the 03/04 fuse panel diagram. You can get an add-a-fuse a tap into the 12v power source you choose to use. I've seen people use the defroster, cig. lighter, ignition
Each ground wire had it's own connection soldered on to it then connected to the Terminal strip.
If I made any mistakes please let me know so I can correct them.
HUGE thanks to venom1997, Zero SVT, HASFANGS, 03cobra#694 for all the help.:beer:
First thing I did was remove my shifter bezel. I cut a small slit in the rubber shift boot and pushed the end (with the O2 sensor) through the hole.
The O2 sensor can then be pulled from the top of the tranny and pulled down so that you have enough slack to screw it into your bung on exhaust pipe.(You will not screw the sensor in yet because the LC1 has to be calibrated first. Just let it hang there like in my pic.)
I took my LC1 unit and tucked it in the shifter bezel. Just make sure you are able to shift the gears without the unit or the wires getting in the way.
I then ran the wires of the LC1 right down through the console.
Here is the way I mounted my gauge, calibration button, and LED light.
Just drilled 2 holes the size of the push button an LED and fed the wires through.
Next, I took the red wire from the LED and connected it to one of the black wires from the push button. I then connected them to one 5ft 18 gauge wire. This will connect to the BLACK calibration wire of the LC1.
Then I took the black wire from the LED and connected it to the other black wire of the push button. I also connected these 2 wires to another SEPARATE 18 gauge wire. This will connect to your ground(Terminal strip)
This elongates your wires and gives you the freedom to reach all of the other connections. Quick pic of the 2 wires(yellow)
Now to create a ground.
I went to Radio Shack and bought a Terminal strip (part #274-670) and a jumper strip (part #274-650)
Pic of Terminal strip(top) and jumper strip.
I also picked up a loop connector to fit a 3/8 SS bolt, 3/8 bolt, 10-13ft of ground wire.(10-18gauge), and the heat protective covering for the wire.
I ran 13 feet of ground wire through the protective sheath and soldered on the loop connector. I then pushed the loop connector through the same slit the O2 sensor went through earlier. I then pulled it through from underneath the car(on top of tranny) and pulled enough through to reach the pre threaded hole in the engine block.( It is located right next to the rear engine mount. Then I took the 3/8 bolt, put the loop connector on and screwed it into the hole.
Pics of engine ground
fed through shift boot
Connected to engine ground
What was left after I attached the ground bolt an pulled the slack up. Ignore the yellow wire. That is my ground from my other Lunar gauges.
I soldered a connector to the other end of the ground to attach it to the terminal strip.
Now everything is in place and ready to be wired. You can mount the terminal strip wherever you want. Some people mounted them in the shifter bezel and some under the dash. I'm going to mount mine under the dash and tuck the wires away. Just personal preference.
Follow the directions from Innovate for wiring and calibration.
Here is how I had it wired. Pics of the wiring are in Post #13. DISCLAIMER- this is how I wired it. Follow Innovate's directions.
Wired it like this:
LC1
black-to wire created from the red LED wire and black push button
blue-ground
white-ground
yellow- taped off
red-power
brown-white(gauge
gauge
white-brown(LC1)
yellow- taped off
black-ground
red-power
push button/led
black from push button-black on LED------connected these to ground
Red from LED- other black from push button-----connected to BLACK calibration wire of LC1
There are 2 different ways I saw the yellow wires that were not used delt with. I've seen them taped up or grounded. I just taped them up. If you want to be able to dim the gauge, follow the included directions. I do not want to dim the gauge.
For power, I'm pretty sure you can tap into any 12v switched source. It has to be something that powers up when you turn the key on and has consistant power but has NO power when the key is off. It also should be at the least a 10 amp This is the 03/04 fuse panel diagram. You can get an add-a-fuse a tap into the 12v power source you choose to use. I've seen people use the defroster, cig. lighter, ignition
Each ground wire had it's own connection soldered on to it then connected to the Terminal strip.
If I made any mistakes please let me know so I can correct them.
HUGE thanks to venom1997, Zero SVT, HASFANGS, 03cobra#694 for all the help.:beer:
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