**Killer Chiller GB**

GTpower01

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The new drag kit is kick ass... Bought one awhile back and the water is like ice.... thanks again
 

MrCaliKrome

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This is a "killer" group buy. :burnout:

I'm so on the fence.

I need to do some research to see what kind of gain others have experienced with just BPU mods?

If somehow I could squeak out 17 more hp with my current set up with this mod, I'd be in, for the drag kit.
 

J.Kincaid

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Bump, has to be more people that want one!

We're up to 6 on the list so far, so we're doing pretty good!

Hmmmmmm......... Should I or shouldn't I?

Can anybody answer me this? With my mods in my sig, how will I benefit from this? Is it worth the mod?

Thanks

By the way, early spring I will be installing a 3.25 upper pulley and a Metco 4lb lower and switching to Corn. Hoping to get into the 700Rwhp club.

Absolutely, this kit greatly reduces the power fade you'd normally feel once the IC gets good and heat soaked. Since you plan on spinning the blower harder and there by adding even more heat into the IC system, then I'd say yes this kit will greatly benefit you.

- Joe

I'm in for this! Email sent.

Received, thanks again!

- Joe

The new drag kit is kick ass... Bought one awhile back and the water is like ice.... thanks again

No...thank you!

This is a "killer" group buy. :burnout:

I'm so on the fence.

I need to do some research to see what kind of gain others have experienced with just BPU mods?

If somehow I could squeak out 17 more hp with my current set up with this mod, I'd be in, for the drag kit.

See my response to 1S1K. Also you can do a search here on the KC system, and see what other members have said about this kit.

Thanks,
Joe

Sent my email too, come on guys, take advantage of the GB

Received, and thanks again!

- Joe
 

MalcolmV8

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Do you have to replace the A/C accumulator by the firewall for the KC? or access it in anyway? Typically when you break into an A/C system you need to replace it anyways, even if it's a stock replacement because they house the material that absorbs moisture.

I ask because I've been pondering the idea of a KC to try out but that back spot of my firewall is so busy. Return fuel system with fuel pressure regulator is housed over there as well as nitrous and meth injection. Trying to get in there is going to suck.

photo.JPG


On the other hand if the KC kit replaces the factory A/C line there that may be a bonus. Currently mine is pinched between the firewall and the IAC valve on the 2.9.
 

J.Kincaid

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Are the benefits as great if you're running E85?

When running E85 you get the benefit of chemical intercooling. I wouldn't bother with the KC unless you're making a lot of power.

+1

I might be in for the drag kit

^^See above^^

Do you have to replace the A/C accumulator by the firewall for the KC? or access it in anyway? Typically when you break into an A/C system you need to replace it anyways, even if it's a stock replacement because they house the material that absorbs moisture.

I ask because I've been pondering the idea of a KC to try out but that back spot of my firewall is so busy. Return fuel system with fuel pressure regulator is housed over there as well as nitrous and meth injection. Trying to get in there is going to suck.

photo.JPG


On the other hand if the KC kit replaces the factory A/C line there that may be a bonus. Currently mine is pinched between the firewall and the IAC valve on the 2.9.

The drag kit comes with a modified accumulator.

You don't need to replace the accumulator with the standard gen-3 kit, unless you leave the A/C cracked open for more than 5~6 hours. If it's a dry climate then you can leave it open for much longer. If you need to leave it open for longer than 5~6 hours, than you would need to tape off the lines.

Both kits replace the A/C liquid line.

- Joe
 

sam92lx

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While making a 1/4 pass, what kind of temps you see after a full pass? Any logs?
 
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J.Kincaid

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When running E85 you get the benefit of chemical intercooling. I wouldn't bother with the KC unless you're making a lot of power.


What do you consider "a lot of power?"


Oh, and TTT:thumbsup:

Running E85, I think anything over 600 and you will see a benefit in the added cooling. I believe the kit to be most beneficial with pump gas vehicles. I talked with John Urist the owner of Hellion turbo about this, as he has a lot more experience with this subject. He believes the added cooling is beneficial with E85 at any power level, so he may be right.

We're now making KC kits for Hellion turbo, and so I thought I'd get his input.

- Joe

Any update on doing a gb on the upgrade to the drag pack? Pm me if you want to joe

Let me see what I can work out. I'll PM you next Mon.

- Joe

While making a 1/4 pass, what kind of temps you see after a full pass? Any logs?

Too many variables. The IATs will depend on several factors, like how much boost you're making, Ambient temps, HE or no HE, and most importantly what is the total IC fluid capacity? The more fluid capacity, the lower your IAT-2s will be.

When installed correctly your IC fluid temps will be around 45 degrees post IC on a 95 degree day.

- Joe
 

rusqtsi

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Which model do you recommend for a road racer? I normally run the car for about 20 to 25 min at high speed.. 40mph at a minimum all the way to 105mph. Speed is up and down with at as many as 15 turns but it is almost always above 40mph. Between 3rd and 4th gear with 4th gear used for the most part and revs as high as 6200 +/- depending on road course. Cars cool down for about an hour before you are back on the course for another 20 or so minutes. Outside temps can vary from 70 to 90 degrees.
 

supraman1990

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Which model do you recommend for a road racer? I normally run the car for about 20 to 25 min at high speed.. 40mph at a minimum all the way to 105mph. Speed is up and down with at as many as 15 turns but it is almost always above 40mph. Between 3rd and 4th gear with 4th gear used for the most part and revs as high as 6200 +/- depending on road course. Cars cool down for about an hour before you are back on the course for another 20 or so minutes. Outside temps can vary from 70 to 90 degrees.

Im betting you will want to step up to the drag pack option as im sure the tracks arent real fond of dropping water and such if people are on their dry weather tires. Not to mention the new drag pack setup apparently lowers temps even more
 

TruBlue

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Paid on Tues and just waiting for mine to get here.
 
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TruBlue

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He may have gotten people on other forums to sign up as I know this is not the only site he is on.
 

J.Kincaid

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Which model do you recommend for a road racer? I normally run the car for about 20 to 25 min at high speed.. 40mph at a minimum all the way to 105mph. Speed is up and down with at as many as 15 turns but it is almost always above 40mph. Between 3rd and 4th gear with 4th gear used for the most part and revs as high as 6200 +/- depending on road course. Cars cool down for about an hour before you are back on the course for another 20 or so minutes. Outside temps can vary from 70 to 90 degrees.

Sorry for the delay, as I just got back from our holiday break.

Do you run the A/C? If so I'd go with the parallel kit. If not I go with the drag kit. The parallel kit is an extra $100.00, so you'd be looking at $685.00 total.

- Joe

I thought he needed 10 confirmed before anything would happen?

Yep, we're almost there, and we're building the kits now. Also, I'm getting some Lightning guys on board, as they use the same kit.

- Joe
 

TruBlue

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Just got my kit in today, looks really good high quality, Joe even changed it over to AN fittings for the IC water lines for me. Just have to finish getting all the hoses and fittings then it will be time to install.

Thanks Joe
 

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