Factory deck or aftermarket?
Just got a Terminator, and 68 Miles later it's broke.
- Thread starter Corbic
- Start date
Factory deck or aftermarket?
Never heard one but honestly I actually don't think the 460 sounds terrible.
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Pulled the wheels off to see what was going on.
That don't look swell,
Was the car wrecked?
Clean Carfax and asked Robert that specifically. He said no.
theres quiet a bit of supports bent up down there and the pinch weld, might be from how they lifted it up and or supported it while doing some work, idk though. if everything is working good and alignment checks out your good not easy on the eyes from a bottom view
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Every used mustang's been wrecked at this point.
true
My car's been smacked, last one was smacked a few times. No biggie. It happens. Especially with these cars. Mine drives straight and leaves black marks on the pavement just fine 
haha
haha
I had the Mach 1000 in my 03 GT back in 2003 and I can confirm it was amazing. Had two subs in the back with six amps on display. There was a mach button that you could press to turn on/off the subs, mine was always on :thumbsup:
Mach 1000
So after some more research I found the two RCA wired for the Subs on the Metra harness are not left and right.
The Mach system is actually a mono unit. So the rear 10" subs are one wire and the interior 5x7" woofers are another wire.
You can't run them both on the same output channel because they need different settings. From what I read 80hz for the Sub, 250 for the woofers.
The best solution is to plug the subs into the sub-pre amp and the woofers into the rear pre-amp.
I also found out my blue tooth Alpine is actually not that great a head unit. It's missing a lot of basic functionality. I had it laying around so no loss.
I tossed the stock unit back in and it's a billion times better.
I'll continue to look for some sort of iPod integration or maybe I'll just grab something like the JBL Legend CP100.
So after some more research I found the two RCA wired for the Subs on the Metra harness are not left and right.
The Mach system is actually a mono unit. So the rear 10" subs are one wire and the interior 5x7" woofers are another wire.
You can't run them both on the same output channel because they need different settings. From what I read 80hz for the Sub, 250 for the woofers.
The best solution is to plug the subs into the sub-pre amp and the woofers into the rear pre-amp.
I also found out my blue tooth Alpine is actually not that great a head unit. It's missing a lot of basic functionality. I had it laying around so no loss.
I tossed the stock unit back in and it's a billion times better.
I'll continue to look for some sort of iPod integration or maybe I'll just grab something like the JBL Legend CP100.
One problem fixed another found!
So my Supercharger res. is now hissing during cool down.
Looking at it the gasket on the cap is shot and the inner rim has corrosion. Anyone know who made this unit so I can contact them for a replacement gasket?
Fluid levels are good so I just added some extra distilled water to keep it safe.
Installed the SS fill plug.
Weird suspension issues persist as well as a soft thunk from the rear.
I kinda want to raise the car a hair and replace the shocks anyways... But I don't want to blinding throw money at it.
Gonna order some quality pads from RA this weekend.
Made an appointment with Whalen to get the O2 bung welded up. That's happening on the 11th.
So my Supercharger res. is now hissing during cool down.
Looking at it the gasket on the cap is shot and the inner rim has corrosion. Anyone know who made this unit so I can contact them for a replacement gasket?
Fluid levels are good so I just added some extra distilled water to keep it safe.
Installed the SS fill plug.
Weird suspension issues persist as well as a soft thunk from the rear.
I kinda want to raise the car a hair and replace the shocks anyways... But I don't want to blinding throw money at it.
Gonna order some quality pads from RA this weekend.
Made an appointment with Whalen to get the O2 bung welded up. That's happening on the 11th.
Took the beast to Firestone.
Alignment is straight. Tie-Rods, Ball Joints, everything is in great shape and tight. Checked all the wheel bearings and brakes. Nothing dragging, nothing loose. Drive shaft is tight with no play.
Rear shocks are older then the front.
He did test drive the car and did notice the "torque vectoring".
Since the car is heavily modified and nothing appears to be wrong, they didn't charge me and recommend having a speed shop take a look.
Video of the LSD and axle, no sounds.
[video]https://youtu.be/uSP0U4l4x8s[/video]
Free mods! Wideband Bung already (poorly) installed!
Coilovers!! Now I can raise my front 1/4" so it stops scrubbing!!
It also have a tubular K-member,
Alignment is straight. Tie-Rods, Ball Joints, everything is in great shape and tight. Checked all the wheel bearings and brakes. Nothing dragging, nothing loose. Drive shaft is tight with no play.
Rear shocks are older then the front.
He did test drive the car and did notice the "torque vectoring".
Since the car is heavily modified and nothing appears to be wrong, they didn't charge me and recommend having a speed shop take a look.
Video of the LSD and axle, no sounds.
[video]https://youtu.be/uSP0U4l4x8s[/video]
Free mods! Wideband Bung already (poorly) installed!
Coilovers!! Now I can raise my front 1/4" so it stops scrubbing!!
It also have a tubular K-member,
Looks like the LSD is shot. I got the car home and jacked it up again. With the trans in first gear I turned each wheel. The opposite side wheel turns in the opposite direction. I also have a good 4" of play before the turning wheel engages the drive shaft and gets some resistance. Supposedly it is a Yukon LSD.
I hope in the end you'll be happy with this car. Never fun to find issues that you have to fix.
Oh I'm very happy with it.
It's a 13 year old, 600whp, heavily modified car... Issues are bound to happen. Gotta pay to play.
Regarding the "rear steer" you have going on, take a look at all the control arm bushings and your torque boxes. It almost looks like they are starting to tear out already. May need to gusset/weld them up. A good prybar on the control arms @ the bushing should tell you if they are worn or not. I was getting a little rear steer under accel before I did the FTBR kit, its even more common on a straight axle in my experience.
Id suggest moving your fuel line. Its the lowest point on the car at one spot.
Id suggest moving your fuel line. Its the lowest point on the car at one spot.
With an LSD it wont be locked up unless its under torque so the other wheel turning the opposite direction is ok. Its an open diff. until the clutches lock up.
Not sure if I really ever paid much attention when spinning the wheel/tire and getting ds movement, but you have alot of items that create play before the pinion will move. It will seem excessive. I definitely wouldn't use spinning the tire and checking when the DS moves as a test.
I'll take a look. I was already looking at torque box reinforcements. Will the generic bolt in types actually do anything? Or should I be looking at the Wild Rides S-boxes?
For the S-boxes, where would I even start to find someone to install these? WS states its a 4-10hr job, so $60 an hour, I'm looking at what, $500 to $1000 installation + parts.
I saw that when I first got the car, I was just going to get a lightweight magnesium plate and make a shield with it.
Team Z also has this kit, a different approach.
I honestly cant comment as I never did that on any of my cars. Hopefully someone else has some experience with it.
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