just got my cobra back on the road today, at 95k miles did a full upper rebuild with a 106300 comp cam kit, ford racing parts (lifters, rockers, timing set) SCT chip + livewire TS monitor, and a dynotune. currently producing 281HP and 282fpt. She already featured a JLT cold air intake, Flowmaster catbacks, coilovers, and a T-56 six speed. The car sounds amazing with a fairly moderate lope u can feel in the drivers seat. the power increase on paper does not sync up with what i found, it exceeds it by far! the damn thing got waaaay faster. when she hits 4g all bets are off, it forces me into the back of my seat! if u have the money ($ is the important part) and crave that sound and power and forced air is not the way for you, this is all you. this car is NOT for sale. lol
Installing Cams in 01 Cobra with stock engine!!
- Thread starter DevilDog81
- Start date
just got my cobra back on the road today, at 95k miles did a full upper rebuild with a 106300 comp cam kit, ford racing parts (lifters, rockers, timing set) SCT chip + livewire TS monitor, and a dynotune. currently producing 281HP and 282fpt. She already featured a JLT cold air intake, Flowmaster catbacks, coilovers, and a T-56 six speed. The car sounds amazing with a fairly moderate lope u can feel in the drivers seat. the power increase on paper does not sync up with what i found, it exceeds it by far! the damn thing got waaaay faster. when she hits 4g all bets are off, it forces me into the back of my seat! if u have the money ($ is the important part) and crave that sound and power and forced air is not the way for you, this is all you. this car is NOT for sale. lol
Awesome! Enjoy.
Took her to another dyno place and she ran 316 hp, so i called up the first guy and said, "hey, whats the deal with this huge difference?'' he told me thats his specific dyno, that reads like that and that if i added 13% to the numbers off the sheet it would compare to what i might find on others... So i did the math 281x1.13= u guessed it, 318 hp. he asked me if the guys out front explained that before i left, and i was like "we were the only ones here." (it was like 8:30 PM) he said, oh my bad. sooooo, here we are about 1k miles later and there is still some kind of head tick. (i hoped it would go away with the break in) this was the reason for the rebuild in the first place... not very loud only makes it between 1500 and 2500 rpm. cannot hear it above the radio playing quietly. and im waiting for an open bay to take it back up to the shop. I'm on the fence as to how i feel about this shop, TCS Automotive. they are super nice people and seem to know what they're doing, but $6200 later and same noise. If they make it right without asking for more money for labor i'll be happy. (they had the heads off and i paid to have the engine yanked for a full in depth inspection to make SURE their was nothing else amiss) if they ask for more money i'll probably get pretty ill. am i in the wrong? im thinking one of the springs is dancing but i just dont know.
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106300's and you make 10rwhp over a basic bolt on? There's something wrong here. Your first numbers of 281 are what most dyno stock...
Agreed. Cam'd 01 cobra should be putting down anything north of 350.
The tick and low numbers sounds like the cam timing is off which would mean low compression.
The OP should do a comp test and a leak down to ensure the motor wasn't hurt.
I don't get some shops. This is their JOB and they can't get it right. I put cams in my car. I simply read the how to on it and viola. It worked. lol
-Mark
Agreed agreed.
Now that I'm finally in FL, I was excited about degreeing my cams myself...but now I find I can't do anything in the complex we live it...and I am stuck finding someone I can trust...who is reasonable priced as well.
It's like some of these shops will do anything for the experience..but could give a damn about the result....I.E. They actually learn nothing and **** you over as well....
That's one reason I ascribe malice first.
well i just ordered some livernois springs to go on as soon as they get here. im going to check the spring seats and retainers real well before i put them in, hopefully this will fix it. does anyone suggest a good dyno shop in the nc area? im willing to go a good distance to get this done right... im pretty sure its something to do with the tune seeing as its stalling out after it heats up and it takes forever to start if the engine is already warm. its still under warranty at the tune shop, im going to take it back once more, before i go somewhere else. im happy with the hp at 316-318 to the ground, wasn't looking for a more aggressive tune as its currently my DD. is there anything i should look for when i replace those springs? both heads went to a separate machine shop from the place that did the installation, they said everything checked out except some valve guides on the #7 cylinder which were fixed.
update is in
i guess an update is in store, figured im gonna drive the hell out of it till the sound either goes away or gets bad enough to track down... and it did get worse, much much so. spun bearing. well i figured in for a penny in for a pound so now im having the lower end rebuilt. and as of right now its just waiting on a retune. we installed a 4.75 eagle forged stroker, manley h- rods, and mmr dished and cut pistons. also had the cylinders and cooling ducts bored out. will try to post results soon. this has been a great forced learning experience, going from wtf to hey, i know what all this shit does now, lol, i think... also anyone know where i can find a replacement rear bumper? trying to return to stock appearance.
i guess an update is in store, figured im gonna drive the hell out of it till the sound either goes away or gets bad enough to track down... and it did get worse, much much so. spun bearing. well i figured in for a penny in for a pound so now im having the lower end rebuilt. and as of right now its just waiting on a retune. we installed a 4.75 eagle forged stroker, manley h- rods, and mmr dished and cut pistons. also had the cylinders and cooling ducts bored out. will try to post results soon. this has been a great forced learning experience, going from wtf to hey, i know what all this shit does now, lol, i think... also anyone know where i can find a replacement rear bumper? trying to return to stock appearance.
Bummer but great excuse to build it the way you want it. Just out of curiosity, what brand and weight oil were you running?
10-30 royal purple cause i like the color. lol
Not the issue. I have 115k on the stock longblock, rev it to 7k, 538hp, and abused every mile. Road raced and drag raced.
Running 5w-40, 15w-40, and I've ran 5w-50 as well.
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I didn't say it was the issue the OP is having. I 'm just saying that's too thick. I bet your bearings are taking a beating. With 115k miles I'm sure they have "worn" into a larger tolerance hence why you are having no issues. Bearing clearances dictate what weight of oil to use. Factory spec on the mains is .001-.0018 and .002-.003 on the rods. Ford recommends a thinner oil because the tolerances are less.
Ford went to 5w-20 to help meet CAFE standards. I ran 5w-30 in my big bore engine without issue. And I set the bearing clearances to stock.
Also consider I think the GT500 calls for something like 10w-40. Same with a GT track pack.
Also consider I think the GT500 calls for something like 10w-40. Same with a GT track pack.
i think it was a combo of over reving and hitting the dip between two hills at 140 that may have done it lol
Not sure what year your looking for?? I have a 99 Rio Red rear bumper cover that I replaced with a 01.
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