the only time dyno number's are semi-consistent is when the same dyno is used on the same day by the same operator. You already know this though.
Installing Cams in 01 Cobra with stock engine!!
- Thread starter DevilDog81
- Start date
the only time dyno number's are semi-consistent is when the same dyno is used on the same day by the same operator. You already know this though.
Im currently rebuilding my DOHC road race motor. Im running out of money so buying cams right now is out of the question. Its a 98 that im doing a c head swap to. Ive heard of b cams making power in c heads. Is it both cams or just the intake cams? The mods include flat top pistons (11.2:1), full length headers, and an OR X. The car dynoed at 302hp last year without the flat top pistons. What kind of power gains can I expect swapping the 98b cams and adding the pistons? Thanks
Ray
Ray
The exhaust cams are the same. The 96-98 intake cams are the ones to use but the 99/01 intake cams will make 98% of the power that 96-98 will provide.
What's the RPM range the engine sees during a race? Where does it spend most of its time? What's the shift point?
96-98 intake cams will provide a 20rwhp gain over stock Mach cams (190 deg) and only a couple more hp over what the 99/01 cams.
is it absolutely necessary to degree the cams?
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Only if you want to absolutely make sure they're installed correctly and want all the power they can give you.
The answer is yes. Degreeing the cam ensures they are where you want them. Additionally, advancing/retarding the cams puts the powerband where it needs to be to best suit your needs. Moving the cams from the stock position can do many things: add mid range hp/tq, raise or lower the rpm where peak power occurs, prevent the drop off power after peak, etc.
The stock lobe centers are 119/110, this is good for emissions and upper rpm power with low mid range hp and tq.
1. 108/114 is good for mid range hp, tq and will put peak power at 6000rpm, power will drop off rapidly after peak
2. 108/120, good for mid range hp and tq, peak at 6000, power will not drop off as fast as #1
3. 110/118 a little less mid range hp and tq and peak will occur just over 6000, power will not drop off as fast #1
4. 112/118 less mid range and tq than #3 but peak will occur higher, around 6200, less power drop after peak than #3, good for FI
5. 114/116, good for carrying power out past peak, works well with short runners, needs more gear than the other options, good for FI
Intake lobe centers higher than 114 are good for fuel mileage emissions, terrible for for n/a power.
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106100,serious problems
I installed the 106100's in my 99 Cobra engine and got only13 more rwhp plus the engine acts like it has a miss at idle AND if i try to punch it at low RPM'S
say around 2500 it stutters and the engine kinda lays down ,just doesn't want to take off.the tuner says he doesn't know whats wrong?the wierd part is that the motor makes less power than the stock cams below 5500 rpm.any idea's as to what the hell is going on?
I installed the 106100's in my 99 Cobra engine and got only13 more rwhp plus the engine acts like it has a miss at idle AND if i try to punch it at low RPM'S
say around 2500 it stutters and the engine kinda lays down ,just doesn't want to take off.the tuner says he doesn't know whats wrong?the wierd part is that the motor makes less power than the stock cams below 5500 rpm.any idea's as to what the hell is going on?
I assume you didn't degree them? Do a compression check and let us know the results.
Will do!ya did not degree them ,was hoping to get away without doing that as the engine was in the car when we installed the cams..
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checked the compression both sides equal!another note the car runs ok when it is cold but go's south when it gets warm!defective o2?
what's the compression? There's obviously a tune issue but there's also possibly a mechanical issue if you only gained 13rw.
So, I read the first page and that was it. Basically, I have thought about doing the same thing.. camming for sound. We all know on a NA you will see minimal gain. But here is the question...
***Will it hurt anything?***
Some people think spending 1500 on cams may be a dumbass idea, however they arent realizing maybe the person has the money, or saved for that particular reason. I honestly talk myself out of it once a year... and I know its only for sound but god dam its a beast of a sound huh??
I think what we all forget, is stop replying with YOUR wallet, and just answer in an objective way. If you want to add.. hey 'bud just so you know its not going to perform much better' well go ahead, but then your going to look like an ass because in this situation the OP said.. in the original post, 'I'm doing this just for sound'
OP, if you have the money, and you want to do it, find someone reliable who can tell you if your motor will be affected in any negative way shape or form by doing it. If not, ride down your street like a lion brother.
Just go to the Jegs or Summitt catalog and you'll get your answer. On cams that make the cammed sound, you need more cubes, more compression, a higher stall if you have an auto, more gears, ect. Yes, cams that will lope in a 4.6 will not hurt anything, other than the stock valve springs but I assume you'd swap those too, but, it will run and drive like crap. Hell, my 5.3 doesn't like to lug around less than 1500 rpm. On a stock motor, it would be way worse. I guess the real question is, how much lope do you want. I thought my FR500 cams sounded pretty nasty, enough lope to know it wasn't stock anyway. They would work with a stock motor, and work well in my opinion. As long as you don't go crazy with it, you'd probably be pretty happy.
I don't know how accurate the compression tester is but each cylinder 1 thru 8 was about 175.this engine put out 294 rwhp with only a few mods before the 106100's were installed so it is a healthy engine,it only has 48000 miles on it. we are going to check the o2 sensors and some other sensors as well ,i will let you know what we find out .
I have no idea where you came up with this. My car could creep though a parking lot at basically idle. It had perfect drivability with 9:0 comp and pulled hard all the way to 7600.
As for the fr500 cams, I agree you could tell they are not stock and I liked the way your car sounded with them, I'm not sure I would call that lope nasty though.
FR500s are very mild and will idle like stock.
Lopey cams won't hurt the stock valve springs.
Lopey cams won't hurt the stock valve springs.
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I'm pretty sure that's what was in my Mach 1.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRvR4OmisDo&feature=youtube_gdata_player
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRFTnD1oiN4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
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Probably cause my cams have over 10 degrees more duration than the 106300s. I sure as hell can't creep at idle. Maybe the nasty sound was more due to my exhaust, but it sounded good.
that's the comment I was referring to. Pretty general statement "cams that will lope" along with "will run and drive like crap". I tend to disagree, but I only have my car to compare, it happened to have almost stock like manners with the biggest off the shelf cams COMP makes. I'm sure some of that was the 2 solid days spent tuning my car.
I think I said it in this thread, but it may have been in another cam thread. I am comparing the lope of my current car, to my other Mustang. A 73 with a 351C. I have bigger cams in the Cobra, but the 73 lopes more. So I really don't think mine lopes that much. Plus, the lope in my Cobra has the benefit of higher compression, more cubes, and taller gears. I would just assume that a stock shortblock would be even worse.
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