We do not do installs as a rule. We've done a couple installations for fitment and R&D purposes only.
IIRC we charged $750 which is well below the 'going' rate.
FWIW
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
HOW TO: IRS Subframe bushings at home
- Thread starter NJredfire03
- Start date
We do not do installs as a rule. We've done a couple installations for fitment and R&D purposes only.
IIRC we charged $750 which is well below the 'going' rate.
FWIW
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
I did Bruce's kit by myself working on it off and on for about 3 weeks. Bushing removal tools helped out a ton. Just take your time and make sure everything is right. Toughest part for me was putting the IRS back in, it was a really tight fit. But a bolt hole line up tool and pushing down on the trunk helped.
I also want to make it clear that I do not have the FTBR IRS Bushing kit. I bought the Steeda IRS Subframe Bushing kit which does not require to completely remove the IRS from the vehicle. So any of you who are asking me about how I'm going to do this, I can only speak for the subframe bushings. I don't think I would drop the entire IRS myself. The subframe bushings only require you to swing the IRS down a bit and rest the subframes on jackstands. It's really only a matter of 4 bolts and enough jackstands to support it all. I also bought a 2in. wire wheel for a drill to clean out the bushing shells. That will also speed up the process. Honestly, if I wasn't doing the springs and brakes at the same time, this job shouldn't take more than 5-8 hours. That's being on the high side of time.
it is tough getting those factory ones out, the rubber is vulcanized. so either way i think it is gonna be tough just dropping it and doing it two at a time. but best of luck with it if you do man :beer:
I called a local performance shop to get an idea of a cost for everything im looking to get done. For subframes, new springs, shocks, caster/camber plates, bushing kit, diff cover, tires mounted balanced, and an alignment, i was quoted for 25 hours...which comes out to be $1600, but the price could go up or down..not sure which way it may go. It just seems crazy that its gonna take a shop that long.
honestly it probably won't take that long. They probably went by the book hours, like how a dealership does it, and just charges you hourly that way. Sucks, but that's how it is. That's why I like to do as much as I can myself. Parts are expensive as is, I don't need to spend the extra on installation. I HOPE I HOPE I at least start this tomorrow, aka up on stands, cat-back off, wheels and brakes off, and possibly swing the IRS down on stands. That would ease my anxiousness.
I will actually be starting this today. I will take pictures and start a new thread so there isn't too much clutter. It won't get all done today or this weekend. My schedule this weekend and next weekend is packed full. So I might be working on it bit by bit throughout the week at night. But I will post updates and pictures in the new thread, which I will probably start tomorrow when I upload pictures.
Have you made any progress?
So far, wheels, brakes, and cat-back are off. Weekend was busier than I thought. One issue so far, an extended lug nut from the lethal spacer and lug nut kit was cross threaded, and destroyed the stud and lug nut. Used a sawsall to cut the cat-back off, it was so old and rusted, it didn't matter. Did notice that the diff looks like it leaked a tiny tiny bit. There's no dripping just moisture on the bottom of the diff. Not a whole lot though. Depending on how long this takes to complete, I might go ahead and get a new diff cover(sob). After getting it up and stands and actually looking at everything. It won't be that bad at all. I will tell you, DD this car in the mid west and then having it sit in the salt air of south Florida for 4 years, corroded quite a bit of the under carraige. Sucks, but whatcha gonna do right? Some pictures were taken, but nothing of too much importance, so I'm not posting up a new thread yet. I'd like to get further into the work before i do that
Checking up to see the progress your making. Any more issues?
not yet cause I haven't worked on it since. I bought the Moroso wheel studs and open ended lug nuts to do away with the extended lugnuts.
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01cobravortech
Banned
OP please provide your "driving impressions and review" when you finally get the kit installed and driven on. I like reading people's descriptions of how its radically changed the feel of the car.
Will do, I have a good feeling, once the subframe bushings, springs and sway bar are installed it's going to be night and day.
Well, I got to work on the cobra for about two hours yesterday. I swung the IRS down, got the springs out no problem. I got one of the rear subframe bushings out, kind of a pain figuring how I was going to do it at first. Plus the bushing was pretty stuck in there. The MM removal tool has already paid for itself with just that one bushing. One of the disks that came with the tool wasn't properly made. Had to drill the center hole bigger to fit the threaded rod through it. No biggie, just expected better from MM with such a simply constructed tool. I also went to do the rear sway bar and the nuts on the end link that I was trying to remove just kept on spinning the bolt inside the end cap of the end link. I sprayed the end links with WD-40 to see if that would help. We'll see. I really don't want to have to get new end links, one because I really don't want to have to spend the money and two, I don't know what the hell I'm doing with adjustable end links. I also mentioned in an earlier post that the rear looked like it leaked alittle. Took a closer look and it looked like part of the rtv gasket was hanging down. Please tell me i do not have to take the diff cover off and replace the gasket. If I do, I might go nuts. I would just go with the ford racing cover and call it done, But I looked at the cover and it does not look like its an easy job at all!! I also can't afford a new diff cover. It's one thing after another with this job thus far, and I'm only about 3 hours into it. And that's with time between to find tools, dealing with the end link, grinding the little dimples inside the oem crush sleeve(used a dremel, once i figured out positioning, it was a snap) to get the threaded rod though to remove the bushing, and of course smoke and beer breaks.
01cobravortech
Banned
If you don't want to buy the Ford Racing cover, an absolute beauty btw, then you can also address this gasket issue by buying the one LubeLocker makes. Cheaper yet effective alternative.
Lube Locker Mustang 8.8 Differential Cover Gasket Reusable (86-13) at LRS - Free Shipping!
LMR offers a discount to SVTP members. They are a vendor on here and have all the details in their forum on how to get the discount.
You'll need longer bolts if you go with this gasket though. ARP sells the bolts you need. You need to order (2) packs. ARP bolts part # is: ARP 6121250
ARP Fasteners - 12Point Bolts - Lightning Motorsports - Made with bits of real lightning, so you know it's good !
Lube Locker Mustang 8.8 Differential Cover Gasket Reusable (86-13) at LRS - Free Shipping!
LMR offers a discount to SVTP members. They are a vendor on here and have all the details in their forum on how to get the discount.
You'll need longer bolts if you go with this gasket though. ARP sells the bolts you need. You need to order (2) packs. ARP bolts part # is: ARP 6121250
ARP Fasteners - 12Point Bolts - Lightning Motorsports - Made with bits of real lightning, so you know it's good !
awesome. thanks man! That's a much better option for me right now. Down the road(a very long road) I will eventually drop the entire IRS and do the FTBR bushing kit, plus powder coating and all the goodies, including a diff cover. Great recommendation! I submitted a thread in the driveline section about the diff leaking. there you will see a picture.
Also, for all who are following this thread, I am holding off on pictures until the job is completed. That's so I can have one entirely comprehensive thread on the entire build without cluttering up this one. Which would make it difficult for people to see all that has been done.
01cobravortech
Banned
While the Ford Racing cover looks fabulous, I too have a hard time justifying a non hp producing expense like that. I don't blame you for looking for a cheaper alternative to stop the leak.
Are you sure I'll need those ARP fasteners. Someone else said I won't need them with that gasket.
No you don't need longer bolts.
The stock endlink removal requires a hex socket to keep the bolt from spinning. I used a gear wrench and then a hex socket to remove/reinstall the endlinks. Sorry but I don't remember the size.
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