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How to catch a GTR, need advice on which way to go
- Thread starter Splatter
- Start date
Thanks, I was surprised to see that the weight of the BFG rivals was 31 pounds for 275/35-18. The Michelin PSS are 25 pounds in the same size. No idea why the Rivals are so heavy. Amazing that with light wheels and tires you can save at least 10 lbs a corner. 40 lbs unsprung!
g-Force Rival | BFGoodrich Tires
Be careful with tire rack's posted specs. If you check the BFG site above, you'll see that the 275/35-18 Rivals are specified at 26.4 lbs.
Thanks! I guess the Rivals are back on track for my program. I was getting my spring order lined up. Any recommendations comparing the Ford racing Boss 302 springs (15mm front, 35mm rear) vs the Steeda Boss 302 springs?? Steeda lowers the car a lot less (5mm front, 22mm rear). I was a bit worried that with 18 wheels and lowering 3.5cm in the rear I would not be able to drive the car to the track. That would be a total of over 3.4inches in the rear! Both of the tracks nearby have pretty bad access roads with a gravel and speed bumps
My brake duct kit is finally supposed to arrive tomorrow and I was thinking if it was better to get the DBA 4000 discs all the way around or just the fronts. Seeing that the 302R just has racing pads in the rear with stock discs. Maybe the cash is better put into some other part?
While waiting for more cash...for my 18 wheels and DOT race tires etc, I was going to slap on a front pair of Bridgestone Potenza S04's in 275/35-19 with 2 degrees neg camber. My front left 255/40-19 S04 is nearly gone after three events.
My brake duct kit is finally supposed to arrive tomorrow and I was thinking if it was better to get the DBA 4000 discs all the way around or just the fronts. Seeing that the 302R just has racing pads in the rear with stock discs. Maybe the cash is better put into some other part?
While waiting for more cash...for my 18 wheels and DOT race tires etc, I was going to slap on a front pair of Bridgestone Potenza S04's in 275/35-19 with 2 degrees neg camber. My front left 255/40-19 S04 is nearly gone after three events.
You're not doing the right math for the lowering. With a 35mm spring drop and a 25.5" tall tire, your total drop will be about 2.1" from stock.
I'd be careful with the steeda springs and getting much camber using plates. Others have had issues with clearance to the strut tower before their plates are maxed out. Not sure I'd use the FRPP T springs until somebody measures the front spring rates. But between the two, I'd go with the T springs.
I'd be careful with the steeda springs and getting much camber using plates. Others have had issues with clearance to the strut tower before their plates are maxed out. Not sure I'd use the FRPP T springs until somebody measures the front spring rates. But between the two, I'd go with the T springs.
Splatter, If you're going with a race tire setup, I would suggest you do the suspension right. Get something with higher spring rates, besides sportlines lowering springs you will bottom all the rest easy. If you want a budget set of good coilovers get eibach r1 or r2's. Maximum Motorsports will allow you to order either with custom spring rates.
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The dbas are nice to have, but they aren't going to shave time off.
Like others have suggested, higher spring rates and better dampers will help to some extent, but I doubt as much as others claim. Main things you need on are better tires, pads, and your cooling ducts...and go get more seat time and instruction. Your money is better spent at the track than on the car. Save the rest of the money for more tires and pads and instruction.
Last time you went, were you able to use 2nd gear for the last turn? Do you have more videos to compare? Were you using the whole track width? Are you heel-toe downshifting?
Spending money is easy. Becoming a better driver is not.
Like others have suggested, higher spring rates and better dampers will help to some extent, but I doubt as much as others claim. Main things you need on are better tires, pads, and your cooling ducts...and go get more seat time and instruction. Your money is better spent at the track than on the car. Save the rest of the money for more tires and pads and instruction.
Last time you went, were you able to use 2nd gear for the last turn? Do you have more videos to compare? Were you using the whole track width? Are you heel-toe downshifting?
Spending money is easy. Becoming a better driver is not.
Running 27 in daimeter now, if I went to 18in wheels would drop 1.4 inches. The springs would drop me another 1.4 inches. So your right not 3.5, but 2.8 inches. Maybe I could fill out with a 285 or 295 35-18 tire. Will look up the other threads to understand the problems with the MM camber kit I already have. I guess it has 1.6 degrees of play, with lowered springs I should be able to get to 2 degrees?? I will install it once I get the new rotors on (along with my cooling kit that just arrived at last!). Living at the other end of the world means shipping takes for ever...
The Eiback R1 and R2 kits look very nice, will have to do some creative financing and reading before I can jump into that! The Eibach pro spring kit has 1inch front, 1.5 inch rear
Oh well it looks like I have about 2 months before my next time trial. Time to get some goodies and get my crumpled driver side repaired from my previous trip into the tires. I guess I need to look at the Eibach site and check that.
The Eiback R1 and R2 kits look very nice, will have to do some creative financing and reading before I can jump into that! The Eibach pro spring kit has 1inch front, 1.5 inch rear
- Front spring rate is 159 lb/in (stock is 122 lb/in)
- Rear springs are progressive rate, 193 lb/in (stock is 154 lb/in)
Oh well it looks like I have about 2 months before my next time trial. Time to get some goodies and get my crumpled driver side repaired from my previous trip into the tires. I guess I need to look at the Eibach site and check that.
The drop from the tire diameter change is divided by 2. So it's 1.4" for the springs and .7" from the tires. Total drop would be 2.1"
I am sure your right. I was thinking that I probably would be better off getting any tire that would last a little longer so I can spend more time on the track. I will post another video tonight, any comments would be very welcome. My times did get down to a stable 51.4 with the instructor on board but I could not pull off a good exit in second gear in the corner before the short straight away. I tried a few times (with some over exciting tail action with the abs off). then my instructor told me to stay in third..
I was having mega brake fade that led me to start braking about 50m before the Porsche's on the track. I feel I could get 50 seg with the brakes back to where they where before the HPS pads. YES! I know, will not go out again till I have my brake ducts installed!! Actually the white WRX I was behind in the other video got a 50.9 on the track. I was debating handing over the keys to the instructor to see what they can do and compare.... hard to hand over keys...
Maybe I should hold off the Discs till I see how the pad/duct combo plays out (or just get a set of slotted Stoptechs up front for now). My hang up on braking is due to the unpleasant feeling in my guts as the peddle goes soft. Seat time is the most enjoyable upgrade anyways!
Jeezz forgot about the axle in the middle!! your very right
Last drivers class
https://www.youtube.com/edit?ns=1&video_id=33MjP_9kaJk
Better times then the last open track but braking was very soft so had to lift off a long way from the two slowest curves.
https://www.youtube.com/edit?ns=1&video_id=33MjP_9kaJk
Better times then the last open track but braking was very soft so had to lift off a long way from the two slowest curves.
Splatter I would reach out to Van of Revan Racing on the GT500 portion he does Texas Mile and Track Racing and can probably get your brake situation taken care of he's also a Griggs Dealer. He has some progression videos of his 13 GT500 and the the changes he made to get it ready for the track. I'd give him a call.
Thanks for the fix!
Thanks for the info, read the GT500 svt forum brake comments and found them very useful. Will install my brake ducts and PFZ pads first and see if i can get fix my scary mushy pedal (its still soft and seems slow to return). Its probably a more basic problem that will not be solved going to a better disc etc. My track is so small my braking must be much less then then the higher speed tracks you have in the US. I only really brake twice: once from 175km and the other from 145km. I saw a 2007 to 2013 GT500 brake booster, is this any better then what comes on the Boss already? any ideas anyone?
I know he changed out his Brake Fluid but not sure if he did lines or anything else. I'd give him a call though he's a wealth of knowledge.
I just watched your video, and that track does not particularly suit the Mustang. I would say as you get better so do the drivers of the GT-R's, given equal comparison. I would guess that an Exige could tear that track up though. Seriously Splatter, just have fun, I know you're not serious about catching GT-R's anymore, even if a Fiat passes you, who cares (that seriously better not happen).
too true! Actually the lotus on DOT slicks gets 48 sec. I am having a hoot in any case. Will take all the good advice to heart, Ordered a set of 275/35-19 tires up front (the 255/40's where nearly shot) and installing pads/brake ducts. Will see what happens with that before I do more mods. That way I can see what really made the difference. Probably me just getting more seat time!!!!
18in wheels and Rivals are the next step once I get better..... can't wait :banana:
18in wheels and Rivals are the next step once I get better..... can't wait :banana:
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