How to catch a GTR, need advice on which way to go

[86Fbody]

Thanks a million guys, very much appreciated. I am off to the track this saturday to take a performance drivers class again. I am sure your right that the biggest hold up is me!! Will try the late braking and lower gear on the corner before the straight. My brake coolers are in the mail, cost more to ship them then to buy them!! The dark video behind the Porsche was with Hawk hps pads and 4 event old ATE brake fluid. Pedal was squishy and made me fear a Out of Track experience! I liked the original pads better. New ATE fluid is in.

Would like to be able to drive to the track, hoping a set of Rivals would fit the bill intead of the Hoosiers, but have seen very little about them so far. I would be delighted to get to 50 sec on my track some time in the future.

Once again thanks for all the positive input!

Make sure to bleed your brakes after every track event to make sure you don't have an uh oh moment on the track. I had a scare after going to a track day and driving a few thousand miles without bleeding the brakes, needless to say having the peddle give way even a few inch in the straight at Summit Main is not fun.

 

[86Fbody]

great advice from JohnW#88.

My daughter has a GRT (her husband has a CTS V with 820 RWHP). I've driven the GTR and it's an awesome car and with AWD it's almost impossible to beat on a road course without considering making your car a full race car.

I get to drive the Nissan all the time, but I prefer my Boss. I like the muscle car feel over the Godzilla. My car will never beat a GTR, and it doesn't matter.

That has to be the best of both worlds. I would love a GTR but I like the feeling in the Boss, I don't feel like a GTR would be able to scare you, and if it did you wouldn't be able to recover like in a Boss.

 

[JohnW#88]

great advice from JohnW#88..

Thanks, but I think I missed the mark a little. I should of asked more questions.

If the OP wants to bolt on a couple parts, keep the streetablity and be a "weekend HPDE warrior" then that's a whole other plan.

If he really wants to run down the GTR- seriously wants to- I think it could be done. It'll take huge money, plenty of track time/ pro coaching and an equal amount of dedication.

The plan I'd propose would take a couple years, starting with $10K worth of safety equipment. Any BOSS capable of running down a GTR needs serious driver protection as priority one.

 

[JohnW#88]

Make sure to bleed your brakes after every track event to make sure you don't have an uh oh moment on the track. I had a scare after going to a track day and driving a few thousand miles without bleeding the brakes, needless to say having the peddle give way even a few inch in the straight at Summit Main is not fun.

Hi,

Question.

What fluid were you using?

Could you have been boiling the fluid causing the brakes to fail? I always had good fortune with Motul- even if it's French. ;-).

I rarely bled brakes on any of my race cars. Maybe once a year before the first event. If anything, I simply cleared the lines by cracking the valve and applying light petal pressure. Never to the floor! I hated putting the master cyl through that much unnecessary stress.

FWIW.

Yep, T1 at Summit doesn't offer much run-off at warp speed.

 

[Splatter]

Well as I said in my post, my goal would be to get my times closer to a GT-R. I did not think I would be able to beat one unless the driver had no real interest in speed.If I could get down to 50 sec I would be pretty happy. Thats better then Ferraris, Lambos and R8s are getting ( I think they are more worried then I am about denting some metal!! $$$).

One of the things I feel is holding me back is the brakes, Once I changed too the HPS pads I had some scarybrake fade within 2 laps. Turning off all the abs etc helped a bit. and I got my 51.7 time. The next day after driving home I had almost no brakes, I looked at the brake fluid and it was very dirty and had boiled over, it was less 5 months old. I have changed the brake fluid and will see what it is like this weekend, if its still weak, I can switch to a spare pair of PFZ I have. Ferodos are once I improve a bit and get my new rotors.

 

[Splatter]

Just in case,, it was ATE Blue, which has a pretty high boiling point!!!

 

[86Fbody]

Hi,

Question.

What fluid were you using?

Could you have been boiling the fluid causing the brakes to fail? I always had good fortune with Motul- even if it's French. ;-).

I rarely bled brakes on any of my race cars. Maybe once a year before the first event. If anything, I simply cleared the lines by cracking the valve and applying light petal pressure. Never to the floor! I hated putting the master cyl through that much unnecessary stress.

FWIW.

Yep, T1 at Summit doesn't offer much run-off at warp speed.

I believe it was something Motorcraft, 5.1 also which will never be done again, switched to Stoptech 600 which is awesome. I have just been told to do it and read it on several sites, just figured that it can't hurt/cheap insurance.

 

[Splatter]

Had a full day with pro driving instructors yesterday, improved my driving quite a bit. After my final session, I asked the three instructors I had what I should do to go faster, they all recommend 1st) Brakes (had mega fade), 2nd) Tires and finally suspension/springs etc. They are all very impressed with the boss, they say its the only stock muscle car they have seen on this track that can actually turn! Had nothing good to say about the ZL1 (only automatics here in Chile, probably why).

I improved my time from a best of 51.7 to a consistent 51.4 but had no confidence in the brakes, had the pedal to the floor way before the brake lights came on the GT3, Carrera S and Cayman R that ran the course with me. I felt I could have gone faster but the brakes are really holding me back and limiting my track time (cooling in the paddock). The option of late braking with my present setup fills me with dread!!

 

[Grant808]

ITEM #1 NEEDS TO BE: Brake ducts. Get them on...Not sure if I can make that ANY clearer!!!

 

[Splatter]

Yup, I got your message loud and clear. The race classes are every two months, could not wait and did not want to lose the chance , Brake cooling kit is ordered and just waiting for them to arrive. Even paid air frieght...cost more then the dam ducts/

 

[5.Bro]

would read again.

 

[Boss949]

That has to be the best of both worlds. I would love a GTR but I like the feeling in the Boss, I don't feel like a GTR would be able to scare you, and if it did you wouldn't be able to recover like in a Boss.

First of all, my apologies to Splatter for adding this which has nothing to do with his project (and I'm hoping you do run down that GTR)

My son-in-law in the GTR last night was challenged by an Aventador; the GT-R "walked away" from the Lambo....LOL

Me? I'm just looking for Camaro's and Challengers.

 

[Splatter]

would read again.

What did I miss? Ducts are on the plane. Apart for that looks like I must have an air bubble in the brakes somewhere. The pedal still feels soft and goes all the way to the end of its travel when cold.... Will bleed again.

 

[86Fbody]

What did I miss? Ducts are on the plane. Apart for that looks like I must have an air bubble in the brakes somewhere. The pedal still feels soft and goes all the way to the end of its travel when cold.... Will bleed again.

I would also open the cap while bleeding and cover it with something so nothing falls in, then pump the clutch a ton of times to get that to bleed also, might be a bubble in there possibly?

 

[darreng505]

What did I miss? Ducts are on the plane. Apart for that looks like I must have an air bubble in the brakes somewhere. The pedal still feels soft and goes all the way to the end of its travel when cold.... Will bleed again.

Make sure you bleed both nipples on the front calipers - each has 2.
Get DTC-60 pads...

 

[LostPony]

Without knowing the skill level of those involved it is just speculation as to what it will take to catch another car. At the very least the Boss would need slicks and probably the best brake pad/fluid combo you can afford. Stock suspension on the Boss feels a little soft after a year spent tracking and driving it, so maybe a set of springs as well, at the very least, as this opens up a whole 'nother can of worms on limits of what you can do with just a spring swap.

@86Fbody: When were you at Summit? I instruct there for the FATT program and have also had issues with brakes on our main track. I installed the cooling kit and all seems fine now. I had my pedal go to the floor entering 10 earlier this year, before installing ducts. That was more fun than I wanted to have!

 

[Splatter]

Well, will not go back out on the track till.....
1)I have my pads changed (PFZ for now, something racier later).
2)Cooling duct kit installed,
3)MM camber kit (save on tire ware).
4)The DBA 4000 discs all around

Good tip about the clutch, forgot its the same fluid! did not pump it, will try this weekend. Need daughters assistance....

From there will get

a) 18x10 wheels and R888/ BFGrivals or something similer that can get me to/from the track. 285/35-18 or there about.
b)Boss 302 specific ford racing springs.

I guess no need for the 2013 GT 500 discs as they really limit the wheels you can get. Maybe once more tire options appear??

 

[86Fbody]

I guess no need for the 2013 GT 500 discs as they really limit the wheels you can get. Maybe once more tire options appear??

You should be fine if you stick with the Brembo's and use a better pad, if you're serious about scrubbing as much time as possible you would want to go with 18's so you have as little rotational mass as possible. Same with the rotors and driveshaft.

 

[Boss949]

This too??

Griggs Racing Products

 

[Highway Star]

Get a Cortex racing grip package of coilovers, torque arm, watts link, adjustable heim jointed rear lower control arms. CorteX Racing It is the best mustang racing suspension in the industry and you will drop 2-3 seconds with that alone. It will cost you about $5000.