Mods are in my sig, I just got a retune done and was aiming for around 21degrees of timing(this is on 93 pump gas). My old tune something was wrong causing me to only have 16 degrees, so anyways i get this tune on and it was around 19.5-20*'s. I added 1 degree of wot timing with my handheld and now it's at 20-21*'s except past 6200 it gets up to 22*'s, nothing higher than that tho. is that too much timing for the car to safely run? afr's are nice and safe at around 11.4 area.
how much timing for 03 cobra
- Thread starter ctgreddy
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You need to look at how much timing is being pulled when you ait's are over 100*. You could only have 16* if your ait2's are over 150*. With the sct tuner you can do a pass thru datalogging that will show you how much timing is comamnded, actual timing and the timing source also known as the timing retard.
My tuner told me that it was saposed to be commanding around 20* and my car was cool when I tried it so it seemed spot on to me as far as what it could be. I can't figure out how to datalog iat2's on my sf3, is there a pid for it?
Ok I think I get what you're saying now, the reason my original tune was at 16* is due to my car havin higher load then usual, it's at 1.6 at wot which usually these cars are around 1.5, and over 1.5 load my old tune was set to 16*'s. now I just have to figure out what's causing the load whether I have a wheel hanging up somewhere or what.
I ran 23 deg on my old 03 on 16lbs ported eaton on 93 octane. Trapped 129mph in the 1/4
The load is a calculated measurement by the computer. I can't remember everything involved, but a hanging wheel won't cause the load to read higher. If the displacement was altered in the tune or the MAF transfer isn't 100% that could cause the load to be off a little. I learned a long time ago to adjust everything properly and the load will be whatever it is. Never tune for a certain load amount.
If you download Livelink it should have a PID for watching your IAT2's.
so should i add another degree or just keep it as is? what all was done other than the port/boost to trap that? weight reduction/rear end/nitrous?
My upper only ported eaton with a 2.80 pulley was 21* but that's on 91 octane.
I don't know why the old tune was set at 16* with a 1.6 load. With less load the timing won't be that different maybe a degree or two. So if your load was 1.5 timing only would've been 18*.
I would not blindly add timing. It's a sure way to destroy an engine. Timing should only be added safely on the dyno where you can monitor for knocking and MBT.
I cant add anymore, when i got my retune the tuner sent me the tune and said if timing was under 21 to add 1 more, he locked it more than that and said that the 1 degree extra was plenty safe if the tune was a tad low, which it was. i'm happy with how it is so i'm just going to leave it, she pulls good enough for me at the moment 
I would shoot for 23 deg when the car is cool with iat2 under 120deg. If it's heat soaked your not going to see the full 23 deg because it will start to retard the timing with more than 100deg downstream air temps. I just had a ported posi blower running 16psi with supporting fuel mods(mafia, bap), solid axle with 3.73 gear, and some upper and lower control arms and drag shocks. Slicks and skinnys too of course. I self tuned my car, ran 23deg of timing at the track with ice in the intercooler tank. My IAT2s stayed below 100deg during a run, so I did not pull any timing.
for what ? 10rwhp ? not worth it to run it that close to the edge IMO , I have had several KB cobras come in with 22-23 degrees and dyno 565 rwhp , pull them back to 19-20 degrees and bam 585-600
so what are you really gaining ?
Yup that's exactly why I stated above add timing on the dyno while watching for knock and MBT. There will be a point, when adding timing, where either the motor will start to knock because of not enough octane for that combo or it'll start making less power because you've passed MBT.
Engines don't just keep taking timing and making power. There is a sweet spot where adding more timing gets diminishing results. That's why I say blindly just adding timing with your handheld is not a good idea.
DontKe
I guess every car is different, i know i would loose 3 to 4 mph and around 2 tenths in the 1/4 dropping down to 20 deg from 23. Proof for me is at the track not on the dyno. Who says 23 deg is on the edge anyways? Lots of people have been running that for years. Posi was even recommending that amount of timing with his ports at one point in time.
I guess every car is different, i know i would loose 3 to 4 mph and around 2 tenths in the 1/4 dropping down to 20 deg from 23. Proof for me is at the track not on the dyno. Who says 23 deg is on the edge anyways? Lots of people have been running that for years. Posi was even recommending that amount of timing with his ports at one point in time.
he still does recommend that, i pm'd him last week to ask him if he thought 23 was safe. i'm just going to leave it how it is and aim for good power when i get the 4lb lower/dyno tune.
I not going to blow someones car up because so and so on the internet says 23 degrees is OK , when I have had 3 out of 4 cars make more power with less timing , google spark hook test and you will find out why I would rather stay on the left side of that
I'm not trying to be a jackass or anything because I'm still learning myself. But isn't the only way to make more power with less timing is to tune the engine to a leaner air/fuel ratio?
Posi ISN'T so and so on the internet, that's a Funny reply:nonono:
No. Every engine will have a maximum timing point where it makes its max HP. You can't just keep adding timing endlessly for more power. As stated above google spark hook test and read up on it.
no need to lean it for 3 extra HP either I think you guys are missing the point again GOOGLE "SPARK HOOK TEST" and read up as already stated , but as I have come to learn most of you won't because you already know everything and when your car blows up you will be the first one to probably blame the engine builder or something else for why you are dropping money on a new engine
and for the other reply , Posi can do or recommends what he wants , I have never needed to run that much timing to get cars to make great power , so why in the hell would you risk blowing a motor for 10 HP
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