Don't tell people that. They will tell you that you and the man with the plan are wrong lol. But all these facts haunting the mt makes me glad I got the a6.
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- Thread starter 2014Mustang5oh
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Don't tell people that. They will tell you that you and the man with the plan are wrong lol. But all these facts haunting the mt makes me glad I got the a6.
Hahaha yeah I just can't have an auto muscle car. Takes away the fun of driving them. MT has some advantage over auto. You lose less HP thru drive train and are lighyer.
Okay, let me get this straight...you paid $525 to have a custom tune done by thie guy at Tru Dyno, of which the car was never one the dyno for the tuning, he just flashed a tune on the car, and said "You should run this fast, and these times with my tune..." and you went off expecting to do so?
Does anyone else notice the stupid there? You paid for a custom tune that never saw the rollers to get everything dialed in correctly.....
Does anyone else notice the stupid there? You paid for a custom tune that never saw the rollers to get everything dialed in correctly.....
I paid 300 not 525. And I EXPECTED it to run better than on the Bama tune considering I was already running a 7.8 (yeah that's real stupid to expect to run better) and I end up with the EXACT same results which means something is wrong. I noticed the buzzing on both tunes. I guess if I pay Shaun 250 to fix it and make it run better I MUST BE STUPID to expect my car to run faster huh? Does anyone notice to STUPID in his post? And once AGAIN nothing in your comment is contributing to fixing the problem so why are you trolling the thread?
I said my 330 ft was a tenth slower. Overall ET is exactly the same
IMO 1/4 mile is more about the driver and setup than tune.
Even with this same issue my car was running sub 7.5's at 96+ in the 1/8th with less mods.
If you can't shift the Trans going down the 1/4, you will not see ET/MPH improve.
Even with this same issue my car was running sub 7.5's at 96+ in the 1/8th with less mods.
If you can't shift the Trans going down the 1/4, you will not see ET/MPH improve.
I launch off a 2 step at 5k. Pull a 1.7 60 ft. In first as soon as it hits 7500 I shift into 2nd and it's clean. Then in 2nd when it hits 7500 again I shift into 3rd quick with no delay and in the 1/8 that's the last shift. I honestly don't think it's my driving. I know fox body aren't the same but I can drive my fox running 6.8s all day and my coyote is consistent 7.9 all day over and over with an occasion 7.8 when I get a better 60 ft.
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I'm pointing out the fact you said the car was just flashed with his tune, which to me, sounds like he just wrote a tune, and stuck it on the car. You said the car was never dynoed, so more than likely that means he did not tune the car on the dyno, to iron things out, check values and such, hence he would have probably caught the issues with the VCT and the other things you are experiencing. If you would've gone to Shaun in the first place, he clearly says he knows how to get around the issues you are having, so you would have had none of the problems you are having now. :idea:
Well sadly due to some injuries I cannot drive a manual for extended periods of time, and since I deal with stop n go traffic a lot its simoly not feasible.
Earlier you posted this:
Does not sound like clean shifting to me. I would also expect better 60's with a 2-step 5K launch, unless the car is bogging off the line or spinning.
Yes the car is hard to shift from 2nd to 3rd sometimes. If I don't get clean shifts idk what the car runs Bc I don't finish the run except for that one run stated above. I'll just coast the rest of the way. If I get clean shifts then the car runs 7.8 7.9 at 88 89 mph. And yes off the 2 step the car does spin slightly with the 1.7 60ft
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Whiteline bushing and energy suspension bushing helped my cars shifting issues. Try it out. :rockon:
Barton 2 post bracket it also a good option but a little bit more coin.
MGW will fix it too. Just depends on what you have to spend...
Well I guess I'm happy to be a voice of reason.
OP, did you get your car fixed? I'd honestly stop dragging it for a while until you do. It's got to cost at least $100 per track visit including fuel. Skip a few weeks and have Shaun get your tune dialed in. I don't even remember what I paid Shaun for my N/A tune but I guess that's why I'm posting a recommendation in the first place. I don't benefit at all from recommending AED. Quite frankly I'd rather be the only guy running his toon if us catch my drift.
Nah I haven't got it fixed. I'm going to do some datalogging and send it to Shaun today. I wasn't planning on taking it back until it's fixed Bc it's pointless anyway. No need to keep beating on it just to watch it run 7.8s over and over lol. Yeah it does cost alot to run it too. Gas milage hits all new lows lol
AED tunes are money spent wisely for me 3 tenths faster than the other guys tune!
Working on it bud
Can I ask something no one else has asked here? Why are you revving it so high (7750)? Is the rest of the motor built for this kind of rpm? If it's a factory GT with factory intake manifold, headers, valvesprings, etc. I think you are pushing to too hard.
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