Help with my BAP install

[TRBO VNM]

Negative Ghostrider. LOL

What you see in that pic is exactly what they send you. A fusible wired within inches of the relay harness. There is nothing else in the kit except the ring terminal for the battery connection. I cut mine and pulled the contacts from the relay harness and rewired the fusible to the battery end of the power wire like it should be done.

OP, Now that I have looked at it more I am certain that your blue and yellow wires are swapped. Switch them and it should work.

As you have learned from Nate, I was right with the fusible link. I have installed 5 or 6 budget return kits in the past couple of months and they come with fusible links to go in the engine bay at the distribution box and then fuses for the trunk. Only difference between the BAP wire upgrade kit and the budget return kit harness is 1 wire for the BAP and 2 wire setup for the return kit.

Nate's pic of the wire in the engine bay shows a grey wire going to the box, which is the fusible link you crimp to the power wire going to the trunk.

Nate, as earico and others are saying, the pins side to side are interchangeable. The relay just acts as a safety switch. It needs power, ground, trigger and then the 4th connection goes to what you want to turn on/off. Like stated, forget the wire colors on the relay adapter harness.

Pull the relay out of the adapter and look on the bottom. You should see numbers next to each pin. Then you just follow the instructions.

 

[TRBO VNM]

See if this helps

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/842748-lethals-new-wiring-upgrade-bap.html

 

[earico]

As you have learned from Nate, I was right with the fusible link. I have installed 5 or 6 budget return kits in the past couple of months and they come with fusible links to go in the engine bay at the distribution box and then fuses for the trunk. Only difference between the BAP wire upgrade kit and the budget return kit harness is 1 wire for the BAP and 2 wire setup for the return kit.

I got cheated then. There wasn't a fusible link for the battery connection in my kit when I bought it about a year ago. :fm: :shrug:

 

[Brutal Metal]

I would fuse it. If the insulation on that wire becomes compromised enough to short out the wire on chassis ground it will catch fire....not an if....it will catch fire if shorted out. That's exactly why the OEM Fuse panel is right next to the battery.

Catch 22 if the fuse blows under boost you have a grenaded engine?:nonono:
Also my car is a garage queen 1500-2000 miles a year, not a DD But I do have a high quality car audio fuse holder still in the package that I can put it..

 

[Brutal Metal]

I've tried everything. I think my BAP is ****ed.

Borrow a friend's voltmeter man, see if your getting the spike after the Bap to know if it's functioning properly..

 

[GSPsnFORDs]

It's late and I haven't read through the whole thread so I appologize if this has already been solved or off topic for your install. But take a look at this as I just recently installed a BAP.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...hals-new-wiring-upgrade-bap.html#post12113036

EDIT: Nevermind...TRBOVNM already posted this link. However, I think that thread resolved A LOT of the questions regarding the new wiring upgrade fro Lethal. Hopefully my comment about including that diagram will sink in and Lethal will start including it in their kits.

 

[earico]

Catch 22 if the fuse blows under boost you have a grenaded engine?:nonono:
Also my car is a garage queen 1500-200 miles a year, not a DD But I do have a high quality car audio fuse holder still in the package that I can put it..

If the fuse to wire upgrade which goes to the BAP blows won't the fuel pumps completely shut off? Isn't that the sole source of power to the pumps? If so the motor would only be lean for a second before it died due to the fuel source being cut completely off. Shouldn't blow an engine. Right?

 

[NateTermi]

As you have learned from Nate, I was right with the fusible link. I have installed 5 or 6 budget return kits in the past couple of months and they come with fusible links to go in the engine bay at the distribution box and then fuses for the trunk. Only difference between the BAP wire upgrade kit and the budget return kit harness is 1 wire for the BAP and 2 wire setup for the return kit.

Nate's pic of the wire in the engine bay shows a grey wire going to the box, which is the fusible link you crimp to the power wire going to the trunk.

Nate, as earico and others are saying, the pins side to side are interchangeable. The relay just acts as a safety switch. It needs power, ground, trigger and then the 4th connection goes to what you want to turn on/off. Like stated, forget the wire colors on the relay adapter harness.

Pull the relay out of the adapter and look on the bottom. You should see numbers next to each pin. Then you just follow the instructions.

I've had it hooked up that way from the start. Didn't work. I'm really thinking the BAP is garbage, but I'll check out that link. Thanks for the help

 

[NateTermi]

Those instructions are exactly how I have had it wired up numerous times. The bap has to be the problem.

 

[Brutal Metal]

If the fuse to wire upgrade which goes to the BAP blows won't the fuel pumps completely shut off? Isn't that the sole source of power to the pumps? If so the motor would only be lean for a second before it died due to the fuel source being cut completely off. Shouldn't blow an engine. Right?

Oops sorry I wasn't taking the BAP into consideration when a gave that reply, I ran the inline fuse when I had one on my car..I'm no longer using the Bap. Presently my 8 gauge runs from the dist box to a 40A relay in the trunk then to the modded fpdm. I know plenty do the inline fuse as well with the wire upgrade..

 

[NateTermi]

Borrow a friend's voltmeter man, see if your getting the spike after the Bap to know if it's functioning properly..

Will do. If not I'm out $180

 

[TRBO VNM]

Will do. If not I'm out $180

If it is the BAP, you might be able to send it to KB for repair. Not that it helps much, but I am pulling a bap from a car next week and will be selling it for the guy. If KB can repair yours, then you can always sell it when you get it back if you bought another.

keep us posted.

 

[TRBO VNM]

I got cheated then. There wasn't a fusible link for the battery connection in my kit when I bought it about a year ago. :fm: :shrug:

Yeah that sucks. I am not sure when they changed it or why. I might just start doing my own bap wire upgrade because I like the 8 gauge and nice holder with glass fuse.

 

[earico]

Yeah that sucks. I am not sure when they changed it or why. I might just start doing my own bap wire upgrade because I like the 8 gauge and nice holder with glass fuse.

It was no big deal really. I just thought if the kit came that way I should warn people to fuse near the battery.

 

[earico]

Oops sorry I wasn't taking the BAP into consideration when a gave that reply, I ran the inline fuse when I had one on my car..I'm no longer using the Bap. Presently my 8 gauge runs from the dist box to a 40A relay in the trunk then to the modded fpdm. I know plenty do the inline fuse as well with the wire upgrade..

Even in your case that long wire running to the rear is the sole source of power for the pumps. I would still highly recommend you fuse that wire at the end closest to the power source. Wires can get chaffed and short or even worse if there is an accident and the wire is compromised then there could be a fire with someone trapped in the car.

 

[earico]

I've had it hooked up that way from the start. Didn't work. I'm really thinking the BAP is garbage, but I'll check out that link. Thanks for the help

OP,

Hook a test light to the red and yellow leads on your relay. Go turn the key on (same as priming the pumps).....does the test light come on and then go off? If so you have the relay done correctly and we can move on to the BAP itself.

Now the BAP. How do you know which lead is the input and output now because you have cut the fuse off the leads? It's possible that you had it hooked up backwards and cause damaged to it. I would take the screws out the end and look inside the BAP. Look for burnt components and maybe there is also a fuse inside the BAP that may have blown.

 

[Brutal Metal]

Even in your case that long wire running to the rear is the sole source of power for the pumps. I would still highly recommend you fuse that wire at the end closest to the power source. Wires can get chaffed and short or even worse if there is an accident and the wire is compromised then there could be a fire with someone trapped in the car.

Will do I'll be at the shop Monday gotta drop the tank AGAIN to figure out why the new level sender isn't working and I'm installing a wideband gauge too. I'll put the fuse holder in the same spot as the red car pictured earlier in the thread!

 

[NateTermi]

Well I still have no clue what was wrong... Went out bought a test light. Everything lit up. Went to start it and it cranked right up... Is the BAP supposed to make a humming noise? Noise varies by turning the knob, which shouldn't matter since I have it wired to run all the time anyways right? Also, the afr isn't any richer idling... Is this correct?

 

[Bdubbs]

Well I still have no clue what was wrong... Went out bought a test light. Everything lit up. Went to start it and it cranked right up... Is the BAP supposed to make a humming noise? Noise varies by turning the knob, which shouldn't matter since I have it wired to run all the time anyways right? Also, the afr isn't any richer idling... Is this correct?

Looks like you got it working! You should hear a constant humming sound, and yes it get louder the more turn the knob. This shouldn't change your a/f, the bap merely gives the fuel pumps more voltage. Think of it like an amp for a stereo system.

 

[NateTermi]

Looks like you got it working! You should hear a constant humming sound, and yes it get louder the more turn the knob. This shouldn't change your a/f, the bap merely gives the fuel pumps more voltage. Think of it like an amp for a stereo system.

Ahh, gotcha. Thanks for the help fellas