Help with my BAP install

Bdubbs

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Negative Ghostrider. LOL

What you see in that pic is exactly what they send you. A fusible wired within inches of the relay harness. There is nothing else in the kit except the ring terminal for the battery connection. I cut mine and pulled the contacts from the relay harness and rewired the fusible to the battery end of the power wire like it should be done.

OP, Now that I have looked at it more I am certain that your blue and yellow wires are swapped. Switch them and it should work.

Interesting guys, because my kit also came with a fusible link which is connected to the big red power wire running up to the fuse box in the engine bay. earico might be right op with your blue and yellow wires. Here' a picture of mine for reference.

009-18.jpg
 
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NateTermi

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Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words.

modified_fpdm_wiring_with_bap.jpg

Red- PIN 30 Yellow- PIN 87 Blue- PIN 86 Black- PIN 85
Your diagram is old.
Interesting guys, because my kit also came with a fusible link which is connected to the big red power wire running up to the fuse box in the engine bay.
Have any pics of the way you have yours wired? Sounds like we have the same kit. Nevermind, no we don't.
 
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Bdubbs

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Red- PIN 30 Yellow- PIN 87 Blue- PIN 86 Black- PIN 85
Your diagram is old.

Have any pics of the way you have yours wired? Sounds like we have the same kit.

Just put one up, I can try to take more if you'd like. Here's how my relay looks. Also my kit is from lethal, not sure maybe they changed relays?

004-29.jpg
 
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NateTermi

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Interesting guys, because my kit also came with a fusible link which is connected to the big red power wire running up to the fuse box in the engine bay. earico might be right op with your blue and yellow wires. Here' a picture of mine for reference.

009-18.jpg

I originally had the blue and yellow wire the way earico said, but that didn't work so I changed it and that didn't work either so I changed it back. I also swapped the red fused wire to the other red wire coming from the BAP and still nothing. And as fate would have it the guy at Lethal that has the instructions on his computer is at a meeting or some shit. They should have just stuck with the old kit.
 

NateTermi

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Just put one up, I can try to take more if you'd like. Here's how my relay looks. Also my kit is from lethal, not sure maybe they changed relays?

004-29.jpg

Yea, my relay only has 4 wires, and the pins are different than those on the write-up by Ironterp.
 

Bdubbs

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Yea, my relay only has 4 wires, and the pins are different than those on the write-up by Ironterp.

Ok gotcha. Yeah not sure why they changed the kit. I wonder if you happen to buy a relay like I have and hookup per Ironterp's write-up if that would work?
 

earico

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Relay wires can be swapped and it will still work as long as the ones that are swapped are directly across from each other.

In other words you can have the yellow pinned out on 30 or the red. You can have the yellow or the red pinned out on 87. It won't matter because pins 30 and 87 are across from each other. I could go into deep detail why but trust me it doesn't matter.

I bet you had the input and output on the BAP backwards when you had the blue and yellow installed correctly. I see that the fuse for the BAP was cut off and spliced. So how do you know which leg is the correct one on the BAP now? The 2 OEM BAP wires can not be switched. At this point you may have caused damage to the components or blown some of the fuses. So even if it gets wired correctly it may not work.
 

earico

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Ok gotcha. Yeah not sure why they changed the kit. I wonder if you happen to buy a relay like I have and hookup per Ironterp's write-up if that would work?

4 wire relay is fine. You don't need a 5 wire.

Edit: Just reread this and realized I misunderstood what you said. Yes a 5 wire can be wired just like Ironterp's diagram and it will work. You just eliminate the center wire on the relay (pin 87a). It will act like a 4 wire relay when 87a is disconnected.
 
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earico

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OP,

Based on the diagram below you should have this:

Red and yellow go to pins 30 & 87 on the relay...doesn't matter which one goes where.

Yellow Green (from the side that goes to the front of the car not to the FPDM) to Blue pin 85 or 86....whichever one is the opposite side of black.

Yellow Green that goes to the FPDM goes to the output on the BAP.

modified_fpdm_wiring_with_bap.jpg
 

earico

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Could you expand on this?

Because if you don't have a fuse at the battery the wire could become chaffed and short out between the trunk and battery onto chassis ground. This would cause a fire.

With a fuse at the battery the fuse would simply blow if there was a chassis short along the length of the wire. You always fuse a power feed wire closest to the source or said power.....not at the other end.
 

earico

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Interesting guys, because my kit also came with a fusible link which is connected to the big red power wire running up to the fuse box in the engine bay.

So you have a fusible link right at the battery and it came that way from Lethal?

The OP's pics show a fusible link wired in right at the relay and that is exactly how my kit came from Lethal too. There was not an additional fusible link at the battery connection end included in my kit.
 

Brutal Metal

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Because if you don't have a fuse at the battery the wire could become chaffed and short out between the trunk and battery onto chassis ground. This would cause a fire.

With a fuse at the battery the fuse would simply blow if there was a chassis short along the length of the wire. You always fuse a power feed wire closest to the source or said power.....not at the other end.
I have my 8 gauge connected to the distribution box with no inline fuse...
 

Bdubbs

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So you have a fusible link right at the battery and it came that way from Lethal?

The OP's pics show a fusible link wired in right at the relay and that is exactly how my kit came from Lethal too. There was not an additional fusible link at the battery connection end included in my kit.

My power wire isn't connected to the battery itself. It's run to the terminal on the fuse box in then engine bay. And yes my wire upgrade kit from lethal came with the fusible link. You can see I have it mounted behind the strut tower area.

IMAG0059.jpg
 

earico

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I have my 8 gauge connected to the distribution box with no inline fuse...

I would fuse it. If the insulation on that wire becomes compromised enough to short out the wire on chassis ground it will catch fire....not an if....it will catch fire if shorted out. That's exactly why the OEM Fuse panel is right next to the battery.
 

earico

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My power wire isn't connected to the battery itself. It's run to the terminal on the fuse box in then engine bay. And yes my wire upgrade kit from lethal came with the fusible link. You can see I have it mounted behind the strut tower area.

IMAG0059.jpg

Yep mine didn't come with that car stereo style fusible link.

BTW: Your connection to the fuse box post is the same as being connected directly to the battery anyway. That fuse box post gets its power directly from a short unfused wire right off the battery terminal. This is where my BAP power wire is hooked up also.
 
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Black306

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Red- PIN 30 Yellow- PIN 87 Blue- PIN 86 Black- PIN 85
Your diagram is old.

Take another look at my diagram; it doesn't get "old." There are no indications to what color wire you need to make the connections on a relay pigtail. It's to help you trace what wire needs to go where.
 

NateTermi

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Take another look at my diagram; it doesn't get "old." There are no indications to what color wire you need to make the connections on a relay pigtail. It's to help you trace what wire needs to go where.

So all the pins on my relay should be the same as the old style relays in lethal's old kit? I don't understand why the made the kit the way they did if that is the case because then ill have to cut the red power wire coming from the battery to the relay and splice it with the smaller yellow wire coming from the relay.
 

earico

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So all the pins on my relay should be the same as the old style relays in lethal's old kit? I don't understand why the made the kit the way they did if that is the case because then ill have to cut the red power wire coming from the battery to the relay and splice it with the smaller yellow wire coming from the relay.

It changed because it doesn't matter. :nonono: I don't think you understand what I keep saying over and over.

Pins 30 & 87 are interchangeable. Red and yellow go to these. Doesn't matter if red is on 87 & yellow is on 30 or if red is on 30 & yellow is on 87. It will still work.

Pins 85 & 86 are interchangeable. Blue and black go to these.

All the above is at the relay.
After the connections at the relay are done it's as follows:

Blue ties into the green yellow on the side of the green yellow that goes to the front of the car.

Yellow ties into the INPUT on the BAP

Green yellow that goes to the FPDM ties into the OUTPUT on the BAP.

 

Black306

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So all the pins on my relay should be the same as the old style relays in lethal's old kit? I don't understand why the made the kit the way they did if that is the case because then ill have to cut the red power wire coming from the battery to the relay and splice it with the smaller yellow wire coming from the relay.


Yes, the pins are the same. I can't see the pin numbers from the pic you posted, but my guess is that:


Red wire - will go to battery +

Yellow wire - load (BAP's red wire with a fuse)

Blue wire - signal (DG/YE wire from the harness, not from the FPDM)

Black wire - ground



The BAP's red wire without a fuse will then go to the DG/YE wire from the FPDM.
 

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