Help with my BAP install

NateTermi

BF3- NateTermi (ps3)
Established Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
2,227
Location
Jefferson City, MO
Alright, I've spend way too long trying to wire this thing up. Car won't start and I can't hear the fuel pumps priming when I turn the ignition on. I followed the "how-to" as best as I could as I think my wire upgrade kit from lethal is different than the older ones. I've tried switching the yellow and blue wire from the wire upgrade kit and that still didn't work. I've also tried turning around the 30 amp fuse coming from the BAP, and that didn't work either. I currently have the BAP wired to where it will run all the time. I had everything nice and cleaned up, but obviously had to undo everything and back track/try other ways. Car is also throwing p1233 code. Any help is appreciated. Red- PIN 30 Yellow- PIN 87 Blue- PIN 86 Black- PIN 85

Here are some pictures:
IMG_1634.jpg

IMG_1631.jpg

IMG_1632.jpg

IMG_1635.jpg
 
Last edited:

Wicked46

Under Pressure
Established Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
3,174
Location
Palm Bay, FL
The p1233 code is the FPDM code... Your problem seems to be there.. Do you have this wired Pre FPDM or after? Sounds like theres no output from the FPDM to the pumps. Did you buy the BAP new? Can you hear the relay click on and off?
 

TRBO VNM

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
23,095
Location
Maryland
The p1233 code is the FPDM code... Your problem seems to be there.. Do you have this wired Pre FPDM or after? Sounds like theres no output from the FPDM to the pumps. Did you buy the BAP new? Can you hear the relay click on and off?

he is using the green/yellow, so it is pre fpdm.

OP, you can't go off of the wire colors on the relay harness because lethal has changed that a few times now. But in the how-to, the one I helped write, it has the pin numbers from the relay listed and what wire it goes to and that is all you should be concerned with.

It looks like the fused wire on the BAP was cut out. Are you sure that fuse is on the correct red wire out of the bap?

I would pull the relay off the adapter so you can see the pin numbers and then write down what pin number is what color wire.

Is that wire upgrade kit from lethal? It looks like 10 or 12 gauge. They used to be 8 gauge and have a nice fuse holder in the engine bay.

That fuse wire goes to pin 30 on the relay
Pin 85 on the relay is ground, same with the black wire on the BAP
Pin 86 on the relay goes to the green/yellow on the harness side. This would be the section of green/yellow you have connected to the yellow wire in your first pic. I don't know if the yellow wire from the relay is correct, but just take that section of the green/yellow and make sure it is connected to Pin 86
The other side of the green/yellow gong to the connector in the FPDM goes to the non fused red wire on the BAP. Based on your picture this is correct, but again, previous comment about the BAP fuse being on the correct red wire???
The wire from the fuse box in engine bay goes to Pin 87.
 
Last edited:

NateTermi

BF3- NateTermi (ps3)
Established Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
2,227
Location
Jefferson City, MO
he is using the green/yellow, so it is pre fpdm.
Correct
OP, you can't go off of the wire colors on the relay harness because lethal has changed that a few times now. But in the how-to, the one I helped write, it has the pin numbers from the relay listed and what wire it goes to and that is all you should be concerned with.
I have the PIN numbers in my original post, but like I said my wire upgrade kit is defiantly different.

It looks like the fused wire on the BAP was cut out. Are you sure that fuse is on the correct red wire out of the bap?
It was connected to that wire with tape when I got it, but I'll try switching those. Good idea.
I would pull the relay off the adapter so you can see the pin numbers and then write down what pin number is what color wire.
PIN numbers are in original post, but doesn't make sense if I use the PIN numbers in the write up.
Is that wire upgrade kit from lethal? It looks like 10 or 12 gauge. They used to be 8 gauge and have a nice fuse holder in the engine bay.
Yes it's from lethal, but the fuse holder that is suppose to be in the engine bay is about 6-8 inches away from the relay, so the is no way it's supposed to be in the engine bay.

That fuse wire goes to pin 30 on the relay ----- pin 30 on the relay is red. Look at the pic and tell me how that makes sense, maybe I'm overlooking something.

Pin 85 on the relay is ground, same with the black wire on the BAP---- correct

Pin 86 on the relay goes to the green/yellow on the harness side.----This is how I originally had it, and it didnt work, but I'll put it back that way.
This would be the section of green/yellow you have connected to the yellow wire in your first pic. I don't know if the yellow wire from the relay is correct, but just take that section of the green/yellow and make sure it is connected to Pin 86
The other side of the green/yellow gong to the connector in the FPDM goes to the non fused red wire on the BAP. Based on your picture this is correct, but again, previous comment about the BAP fuse being on the correct red wire??? ----I'll check it
The wire from the fuse box in engine bay goes to Pin 87.---- this would be the yellow wire for me, but if you look at the picture that's not going to work unless I cut the red wire(pin 30) coming from the fuse box and splice it with the yellow (pin 87) wire.
Replies in the quote.
 

NateTermi

BF3- NateTermi (ps3)
Established Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
2,227
Location
Jefferson City, MO
The p1233 code is the FPDM code... Your problem seems to be there.. Do you have this wired Pre FPDM or after? Sounds like theres no output from the FPDM to the pumps. Did you buy the BAP new? Can you hear the relay click on and off?

Pre. BAP is used. I can hear a click, but I can't hear the pumps.
 

Wicked46

Under Pressure
Established Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2006
Messages
3,174
Location
Palm Bay, FL
I'd bypass the BAP and make sure the FPDM still has output to the pumps. I still think it might be a relay issue.
 

NateTermi

BF3- NateTermi (ps3)
Established Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
2,227
Location
Jefferson City, MO
I'd bypass the BAP and make sure the FPDM still has output to the pumps. I still think it might be a relay issue.

When I reconnect the Green/Yellow wire I can hear the pumps prime and the car will start right up. I called Lethal and they are gonna try to email me the instructions to this kit.
 

earico

It's 4:20 somewhere...
Established Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
5,168
Location
SA TX
IMG_1631.jpg


Based on that picture it looks like your blue and yellow are backwards. They looked swapped to me.

The blue wire gets energized from the OEM green/yellow wire going back to the front of the car. This activates the relay and completes the power connection between the red and yellow.

Also on a side note Lethal is making these kits wrong IMO. Look how the relay harness and fuse block are only 5 inches away from each other. This is exactly how they send it to you. IT NEEDS TO BE FUSED AT THE BATTERY! If there is a short along that wire between the trunk and the battery you are looking at a possible fire.
 

TRBO VNM

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
23,095
Location
Maryland
I think they are using a fuseable link that the battery. I know that is what they are using on the return fuel system kits instead of the glass fuse and fuse holder like they used to.
 

earico

It's 4:20 somewhere...
Established Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
5,168
Location
SA TX
I think they are using a fuseable link that the battery. I know that is what they are using on the return fuel system kits instead of the glass fuse and fuse holder like they used to.

Negative Ghostrider. LOL

What you see in that pic is exactly what they send you. A fusible wired within inches of the relay harness. There is nothing else in the kit except the ring terminal for the battery connection. I cut mine and pulled the contacts from the relay harness and rewired the fusible to the battery end of the power wire like it should be done.

OP, Now that I have looked at it more I am certain that your blue and yellow wires are swapped. Switch them and it should work.
 

NateTermi

BF3- NateTermi (ps3)
Established Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
2,227
Location
Jefferson City, MO
IMG_1631.jpg


Based on that picture it looks like your blue and yellow are backwards. They looked swapped to me.

The blue wire gets energized from the OEM green/yellow wire going back to the front of the car. This activates the relay and completes the power connection between the red and yellow.

Also on a side note Lethal is making these kits wrong IMO. Look how the relay harness and fuse block are only 5 inches away from each other. This is exactly how they send it to you. IT NEEDS TO BE FUSED AT THE BATTERY! If there is a short along that wire between the trunk and the battery you are looking at a possible fire.
I originally had the blue and yellow wire how you said, but that didn't work either.
I think they are using a fuseable link that the battery. I know that is what they are using on the return fuel system kits instead of the glass fuse and fuse holder like they used to.

yep
 

NateTermi

BF3- NateTermi (ps3)
Established Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
2,227
Location
Jefferson City, MO
Negative Ghostrider. LOL

What you see in that pic is exactly what they send you. A fusible wired within inches of the relay harness. There is nothing else in the kit except the ring terminal for the battery connection. I cut mine and pulled the contacts from the relay harness and rewired the fusible to the battery end of the power wire like it should be done.

OP, Now that I have looked at it more I am certain that your blue and yellow wires are swapped. Switch them and it should work.

They do send a fusible link in the kit. You attach it to the red wire that you run to the battery and attach it at the end of it and it has a ring terminal on it.
 

earico

It's 4:20 somewhere...
Established Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
5,168
Location
SA TX
IMAG1501.jpg


This is a pic of my BAP install. I have 2 red wires in my relay harness instead of a red and yellow. I removed the yellow and added the thicker red wire instead. Seemed dumb to me to run all that heavy gauge wire (red) to just have it go back to a smaller gauge (yellow) for a few inches and back to heavy gauge (OEM BAP wire).
 

earico

It's 4:20 somewhere...
Established Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
5,168
Location
SA TX
They do send a fusible link in the kit. You attach it to the red wire that you run to the battery and attach it at the end of it and it has a ring terminal on it.

Interesting because my kit from them didn't have that. It only had the fuse at the relay and a ring terminal for the end at the battery. As long as you have it fused at the battery it's good. Most people don't know about the fire hazard it would cause without a fuse at the battery.
 
Last edited:

earico

It's 4:20 somewhere...
Established Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2011
Messages
5,168
Location
SA TX
I originally had the blue and yellow wire how you said, but that didn't work either.

Then maybe you have the input and output on the BAP backwards too. I know for sure the yellow and blue are backwards in the pics you posted.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top