Looks great with the black shrouds. When you mentioned sanding to get rid of the double cutoff, I thought you were planning to sand off the horizontal ribs that go across the inside of the outer lenses. Have you ruled out that this could be a factor?
Took my headlights apart today. Man what a pain lol. Parts should be here tomorrow.
Jay, can you elaborate more on the wiring? I'm not sure what that one wiring picture shows. I already have a hi/lo setup so i will be using that with the H1 bulbs.
Took my headlights apart today. Man what a pain lol. Parts should be here tomorrow.
Jay, can you elaborate more on the wiring? I'm not sure what that one wiring picture shows. I already have a hi/lo setup so i will be using that with the H1 bulbs.
your standard hid kit uses bulbs that control hi low, not a projector with a solenoid, excuse me if I am wrong here I have not touched a cheap pnp harness in a while but they do not have extra wires needed for the solenoid like the TRS harness has...
The DDM harness does indeed work, all you need to do is swap out the small black connector for the high beam solenoid. The Morimoto kit will come with everything that you need. Post a pic of your harness to be sure but its real easy.
The ring terminal with the fuse goes to the battery +.
Ring terminal without goes to the battery -.
The 3 loose wires go into the blue connector, that connector plugs into your old headlight harness where the bulb use to go. *NOTE* Only one connector is on your harness and this is correct, you will only need to use one side to control both headlights.
The last 2 wire bundles will go to your ballasts and the high beam solenoid on your projector. Remove the small black connectors that are connected and replace them with the ones that come with your projectors.
Now from your ballasts you install the new H1 bulbs that go into your projector and your done.
The DDM harness does indeed work, all you need to do is swap out the small black connector for the high beam solenoid. The Morimoto kit will come with everything that you need. Post a pic of your harness to be sure but its real easy.
The ring terminal with the fuse goes to the battery +.
Ring terminal without goes to the battery -.
The 3 loose wires go into the blue connector, that connector plugs into your old headlight harness where the bulb use to go. *NOTE* Only one connector is on your harness and this is correct, you will only need to use one side to control both headlights.
The last 2 wire bundles will go to your ballasts and the high beam solenoid on your projector. Remove the small black connectors that are connected and replace them with the ones that come with your projectors.
Now from your ballasts you install the new H1 bulbs that go into your projector and your done.
What headlights do you recommend to do this retro fit I've heard the factory ones are almost impossible to pull apart? Also, how much did this retrofit cost you in parts?
I thought about it but that would be a TON of work so I started with the easy stuff.
I would be surprised if what you did solved the problem.
It's most likely those 2 flutes on the inside, or just the thickness of the lens itself.
If you still have your headlights apart you can experiment with this by holding the lens in front of the projector and moving it up/down/toward/away the projector. You will see the output change.
I've never used the mini projectors, but I get the FX-R's mounted pretty low in the reflector(I cut it up). You may need to do that.
What headlights do you recommend to do this retro fit I've heard the factory ones are almost impossible to pull apart? Also, how much did this retrofit cost you in parts?
I have a few other headlight covers I can experiment with if and when I decide to play with it some more. I think your probably right about it being the thickness of cover lens. While I moved the bulb around it changed the output a little but I dont think its the cause of the problem since I got clean projections outside of the housing and it only shows up in this headlight and not the other.
The factory headlight was exactly the same difficulty to bake open as the aftermarket one I used (unsure of brand) but having a spare set is always better in my book. Again opening up the headlights was the hardest part and very intimidating but is seriously easy once you grow a pair and just do it, it can be done in under 30 minutes with 20 of them being in the oven. Click on the links, the prices are on the websites.
play with projector positioning. You may need to move it closer to the lens. The angle of the plastic and/or thickness can by the cuplrit.
I would have to disagree with this, if only to prevent people from using oem's for 99-04 headlights and finding out the hard way. The oem ford ones are a major pita to open up. They are sealed together with permaseal, and it does not become soft under normal operating temperatures. Your housing and lens will melt into a ball before permaseal does.
If it took you 20-30 mins, then you are using aftermarket ones.
I suppose i got lucky then. I had a set of trashed ford ones that opened right up for me. What color is the oem sealant??? All i have seen is shades of gray. Looks like i dont have an extra set to use then, all i have is the set of ford lights that im not messing with. Thanks for the heads up so i dont ruin my good stock set.