DIY Projector retro...

*Jay*

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*UPDATE*
Since my headlight covers were pretty trashed and could have possibly been causing my double cutoff problem I decided to clean them up some. Wet sanded them down with 800/1000/2000 grit and then coated with a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and clear polyurethane spar.

I still have the double cutoff but after a few WTF moments I started playing with the bulb position in the projector. Some twisting changed the projection so I may try a different brand of bulbs, I had the same issue with 2 sets of DDM bulbs.

Here are some pics of my recoated headlights with the flat black projectors. The pics dont do them justice, it was well worth the 45 minutes I took on them from start to finish. The covers are very clean now and looking great, only problem is now I can see all the little bits of gray sealant that oozed out inside the housing. Just another lesson learned, I will go back in and clean them up someday but for right now Im calling this project done.

Crappy headlight cover.
2012-03-19194618.jpg


Sanded down.
2012-03-19200707.jpg


Recoated!!!
2012-03-19201013.jpg



2012-03-19201021.jpg
 

black 10th vert

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Looks great with the black shrouds. When you mentioned sanding to get rid of the double cutoff, I thought you were planning to sand off the horizontal ribs that go across the inside of the outer lenses. Have you ruled out that this could be a factor?
 

*Jay*

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Looks great with the black shrouds. When you mentioned sanding to get rid of the double cutoff, I thought you were planning to sand off the horizontal ribs that go across the inside of the outer lenses. Have you ruled out that this could be a factor?

I thought about it but that would be a TON of work so I started with the easy stuff.
 

keith89

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Took my headlights apart today. Man what a pain lol. Parts should be here tomorrow.

Jay, can you elaborate more on the wiring? I'm not sure what that one wiring picture shows. I already have a hi/lo setup so i will be using that with the H1 bulbs.
 

yuke175

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Took my headlights apart today. Man what a pain lol. Parts should be here tomorrow.

Jay, can you elaborate more on the wiring? I'm not sure what that one wiring picture shows. I already have a hi/lo setup so i will be using that with the H1 bulbs.

A generic harness the likes of ddm etc will not work with the projectors to retain hi/lo if you were planing on reusing that wiring. PM me if you need assistance or need a correct harness I can hook you up with one..

Chris
Yuke's HID Retrofits
 

*Jay*

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Took my headlights apart today. Man what a pain lol. Parts should be here tomorrow.

Jay, can you elaborate more on the wiring? I'm not sure what that one wiring picture shows. I already have a hi/lo setup so i will be using that with the H1 bulbs.

The DDM harness does indeed work, all you need to do is swap out the small black connector for the high beam solenoid. The Morimoto kit will come with everything that you need. Post a pic of your harness to be sure but its real easy.

The ring terminal with the fuse goes to the battery +.

Ring terminal without goes to the battery -.

The 3 loose wires go into the blue connector, that connector plugs into your old headlight harness where the bulb use to go. *NOTE* Only one connector is on your harness and this is correct, you will only need to use one side to control both headlights.

The last 2 wire bundles will go to your ballasts and the high beam solenoid on your projector. Remove the small black connectors that are connected and replace them with the ones that come with your projectors.

Now from your ballasts you install the new H1 bulbs that go into your projector and your done.
 
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yuke175

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your standard hid kit uses bulbs that control hi low, not a projector with a solenoid, excuse me if I am wrong here I have not touched a cheap pnp harness in a while but they do not have extra wires needed for the solenoid like the TRS harness has...
 

*Jay*

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your standard hid kit uses bulbs that control hi low, not a projector with a solenoid, excuse me if I am wrong here I have not touched a cheap pnp harness in a while but they do not have extra wires needed for the solenoid like the TRS harness has...

The HI/LO kit does have a bulb with a magnetic shroud that does both hi and lo beams. That function is controlled with a small 2 wire connector that connects to the hid bulb. This wire is NOT the one that goes to the ballast. My directions above are correct.
 

keith89

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The DDM harness does indeed work, all you need to do is swap out the small black connector for the high beam solenoid. The Morimoto kit will come with everything that you need. Post a pic of your harness to be sure but its real easy.

The ring terminal with the fuse goes to the battery +.

Ring terminal without goes to the battery -.

The 3 loose wires go into the blue connector, that connector plugs into your old headlight harness where the bulb use to go. *NOTE* Only one connector is on your harness and this is correct, you will only need to use one side to control both headlights.

The last 2 wire bundles will go to your ballasts and the high beam solenoid on your projector. Remove the small black connectors that are connected and replace them with the ones that come with your projectors.

Now from your ballasts you install the new H1 bulbs that go into your projector and your done.

Ok so the 2 smaller loose connector need their connectors replaced with the projector kit. got it.
 

stangin99

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The DDM harness does indeed work, all you need to do is swap out the small black connector for the high beam solenoid. The Morimoto kit will come with everything that you need. Post a pic of your harness to be sure but its real easy.

The ring terminal with the fuse goes to the battery +.

Ring terminal without goes to the battery -.

The 3 loose wires go into the blue connector, that connector plugs into your old headlight harness where the bulb use to go. *NOTE* Only one connector is on your harness and this is correct, you will only need to use one side to control both headlights.

The last 2 wire bundles will go to your ballasts and the high beam solenoid on your projector. Remove the small black connectors that are connected and replace them with the ones that come with your projectors.

Now from your ballasts you install the new H1 bulbs that go into your projector and your done.

Correct.
 

SilverNotch

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What headlights do you recommend to do this retro fit I've heard the factory ones are almost impossible to pull apart? Also, how much did this retrofit cost you in parts?
 

stangin99

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I thought about it but that would be a TON of work so I started with the easy stuff.

I would be surprised if what you did solved the problem.

It's most likely those 2 flutes on the inside, or just the thickness of the lens itself.

If you still have your headlights apart you can experiment with this by holding the lens in front of the projector and moving it up/down/toward/away the projector. You will see the output change.

I've never used the mini projectors, but I get the FX-R's mounted pretty low in the reflector(I cut it up). You may need to do that.
 

*Jay*

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I would be surprised if what you did solved the problem.

It's most likely those 2 flutes on the inside, or just the thickness of the lens itself.

If you still have your headlights apart you can experiment with this by holding the lens in front of the projector and moving it up/down/toward/away the projector. You will see the output change.

I've never used the mini projectors, but I get the FX-R's mounted pretty low in the reflector(I cut it up). You may need to do that.

I have a few other headlight covers I can experiment with if and when I decide to play with it some more. I think your probably right about it being the thickness of cover lens. While I moved the bulb around it changed the output a little but I dont think its the cause of the problem since I got clean projections outside of the housing and it only shows up in this headlight and not the other.

What headlights do you recommend to do this retro fit I've heard the factory ones are almost impossible to pull apart? Also, how much did this retrofit cost you in parts?

The factory headlight was exactly the same difficulty to bake open as the aftermarket one I used (unsure of brand) but having a spare set is always better in my book. Again opening up the headlights was the hardest part and very intimidating but is seriously easy once you grow a pair and just do it, it can be done in under 30 minutes with 20 of them being in the oven. Click on the links, the prices are on the websites.
 
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stangin99

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I have a few other headlight covers I can experiment with if and when I decide to play with it some more. I think your probably right about it being the thickness of cover lens. While I moved the bulb around it changed the output a little but I dont think its the cause of the problem since I got clean projections outside of the housing and it only shows up in this headlight and not the other.

Play with projector positioning. You may need to move it closer to the lens. The angle of the plastic and/or thickness can by the cuplrit.


The factory headlight was exactly the same difficulty to bake open as the aftermarket one I used (unsure of brand) but having a spare set is always better in my book. Again opening up the headlights was the hardest part and very intimidating but is seriously easy once you grow a pair and just do it, it can be done in under 30 minutes with 20 of them being in the oven. Click on the links, the prices are on the websites.

I would have to disagree with this, if only to prevent people from using OEM's for 99-04 headlights and finding out the hard way. The OEM ford ones are a MAJOR PITA to open up. They are sealed together with PermaSeal, and it does not become soft under normal operating temperatures. Your housing and lens will melt into a ball before PermaSeal does.

If it took you 20-30 mins, then you are using aftermarket ones.
 

yuke175

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play with projector positioning. You may need to move it closer to the lens. The angle of the plastic and/or thickness can by the cuplrit.




I would have to disagree with this, if only to prevent people from using oem's for 99-04 headlights and finding out the hard way. The oem ford ones are a major pita to open up. They are sealed together with permaseal, and it does not become soft under normal operating temperatures. Your housing and lens will melt into a ball before permaseal does.

If it took you 20-30 mins, then you are using aftermarket ones.

+1
 

*Jay*

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I suppose i got lucky then. I had a set of trashed ford ones that opened right up for me. What color is the oem sealant??? All i have seen is shades of gray. Looks like i dont have an extra set to use then, all i have is the set of ford lights that im not messing with. Thanks for the heads up so i dont ruin my good stock set.
 
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keith89

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I suppose i got lucky then. I had a set of trashed ford ones that opened right up for me. What color is the oem sealant??? All i have seen is shades of gray. Looks like i dont have an extra set to use then, all i have is the set of ford lights that im not messing with. Thanks for the heads up so i dont ruin my good stock set.

+1 i got my stockers open. Took about 15 minutes at 250 degrees. It was still a pita though.
 

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