Clocking the MAF

[Screamin_Heaton]

Just wondering how to properly get my MAF back into position. I feel as if it's not as the top of the sensor sits flush with the hood (steeda RAI with shield+stock intake tube). It has had a minor stalling problem when coming to a stop when you push the clutch in. Now in the past 2 weeks, it's gotten worse as it will more than likely stalling at LEAST once in an average trip (25 miles).
I was just wondering where the stock position is for the MAF. I have searched and people have said the 10 o clock posistion. But what part of the MAF points to 10 o clock? A little help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Jomo1994z71]

1030 here...the placement of your MAF is very important, you can run lean if you mess with your positioning after a tune, etc...

 

[96stanggt]

If the car has been tuned then you're going to want to put it back in the position it was when you tuned it. If you're still on the stock tune then put the electronics on the outside of the MAF at 10 o'clock

 

[69gt4speed]

You figure it out, use a paint marker same color as factory uses, looks stock then. I've taken mine off so many times isn't funny to access the solenoids, lines, fogger.

 

[Screamin_Heaton]

Thanks 96stanggt, thats exactly what I was asking. The car has been tuned, back in may 08 on the dyno. I have not moved the MAF, so it's been in the same position since the tune.
Now I'm just wondering whats causing the stalling so frequently now. The car is being driven the same amount as it always has, now it just has a tendency to stall a lot more. After the tune I didn't see it stall for about a month or two and I thought it was random. Then it would stall maybe 1 time in about 2 weeks for the next 3-4 months. Now every single time I drive it I have trouble keeping it alive when coasting to a stop with the clutch in or out of gear. And sometimes it's not at the moment I push the clutch in, it will sit at 1000-1100 rpms for about 2 seconds....then as I am slowing down more, it will drop off to like 200 and it's very rare that it comes back. I have to stab the gas to keep it going. Anyone else have the exact same problem and found a solution.
I know it's been talked about before but rarely does it seem like someone states their problem, then tells of a solution to it after it gets fixed.

 

[69gt4speed]

I'd try cleaning the maf sensor doubt that's it but that's cheaper than anything. The iac could also be sticking now that it's colder out. Another thing mark it and rotate it a bit at a time worst case. If you got a wb then check it at wot, mine at wot never changed just I helped stall a bit. I'm running a 4" ram tube close to the hole from brake cooling hole. That tube did mess up idle maf 25 mph coasting signal, I saw it on my predator. I suppose like taking out ur pass headlight.

 

[Screamin_Heaton]

I'd try cleaning the maf sensor doubt that's it but that's cheaper than anything. The iac could also be sticking now that it's colder out. Another thing mark it and rotate it a bit at a time worst case. If you got a wb then check it at wot, mine at wot never changed just I helped stall a bit. I'm running a 4" ram tube close to the hole from brake cooling hole. That tube did mess up idle maf 25 mph coasting signal, I saw it on my predator. I suppose like taking out ur pass headlight.

Thats interesting. I had no idea there was so much involved. I am used to the old mass air in 89 and up fox body mustangs, and I never had a problem like this. The closest thing to it was stalling because I moded the car and it was still speed density, then I had to convert to mass air and everything was fine. I guess technology is amazing. Thanks for the info.

 

[Qwk GT]

Thats interesting. I had no idea there was so much involved. I am used to the old mass air in 89 and up fox body mustangs, and I never had a problem like this. The closest thing to it was stalling because I moded the car and it was still speed density, then I had to convert to mass air and everything was fine. I guess technology is amazing. Thanks for the info.

I had a similar issue with my 95 5.0. It ran the best right at around 10 also. I would also try cleaning the maf, and clocking to see if your problem straighten's out. After I installed the vortech, I didn't have any basis to start out with, so I just let it idle or took it for a short test drive with the maf at different positions.

Good luck.

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

Now I'm just wondering whats causing the stalling so frequently now. The car is being driven the same amount as it always has, now it just has a tendency to stall a lot more.

How about try changing the plugs? My car started stalling a lot more all of the sudden and a fresh set of TR7IX cured it.

 

[69gt4speed]

Thats interesting. I had no idea there was so much involved. I am used to the old mass air in 89 and up fox body mustangs, and I never had a problem like this. The closest thing to it was stalling because I moded the car and it was still speed density, then I had to convert to mass air and everything was fine. I guess technology is amazing. Thanks for the info.

It seems some reason these maybe because maf are bigger are prone for stall issues. The maf signal in these are the heart of the idle/running. Many complain and I agree it shouldn't be a issue. That is why a straight cai is popular, I'd say. I've got ford's stall fix, so "stall fix" to me means a issue. I had originally a qud2 cal. Oh btw I have taken the window screen out also, some say that evens out sensor flow at low rpms. I took off the k&n clamp on 4" and put on a 4" upr big mouth and it's been good imo. But who knows if good on urs.Heres a link of it. 4" dia x 9" long.
UPR Products Big Mouth Clamp Style Filter

 

[Co-brat]

so has anyone come to a consensus about the correct possition of the MAF? 10:00? Ive got mine so that the censor is dead center at the top of the intake.

 

[Jefe]

No tune here...And I am running a little rich up top...Would this be considered 2oclock?

 

[ttk53]

does this really affect anything. The JLT CAI moves the MAF and its clocking

 

[Tarball]

Yes it does, and the JLT RAI doesn't change the clocking at all, only if you assemble it wrong.

My friend had a stock+intake v8 SHO, clocked his MAF at 6, lost 5whp,6wtq, clocked it back to 12, gained the power back, went back to 6, the power left again.

 

[hawaiiancobra]

no tune here...and i am running a little rich up top...would this be considered 2oclock?

1:38
when mine did the stalling event, it was the air filter had come loose from the bottom and i couldn't see that till i removed it
when i put the knfipk cai kit on it, its at 12 o clock, it stalled a few times right after install, then computer learned its new position and all is well. biggest problem with different tunes is hanging idles, the computer can usually overcome events thru drive cycling. clean maf w/maf cleaner, reset and check connection, there can be no air leaks,reprogram puter and drive cycle the car

 

[hawaiiancobra]

Thanks 96stanggt, thats exactly what I was asking. The car has been tuned, back in may 08 on the dyno. I have not moved the MAF, so it's been in the same position since the tune.
Now I'm just wondering whats causing the stalling so frequently now. The car is being driven the same amount as it always has, now it just has a tendency to stall a lot more. After the tune I didn't see it stall for about a month or two and I thought it was random. Then it would stall maybe 1 time in about 2 weeks for the next 3-4 months. Now every single time I drive it I have trouble keeping it alive when coasting to a stop with the clutch in or out of gear. And sometimes it's not at the moment I push the clutch in, it will sit at 1000-1100 rpms for about 2 seconds....then as I am slowing down more, it will drop off to like 200 and it's very rare that it comes back. I have to stab the gas to keep it going. Anyone else have the exact same problem and found a solution.
I know it's been talked about before but rarely does it seem like someone states their problem, then tells of a solution to it after it gets fixed.

tps sensor going bad ?

 

[Screamin_Heaton]

Just to let everyone know, it was a combination of a bad/sticking IAC and a tune trying to cover it up or compensate for it. Fixed the IAC and got it retuned, it ran perfect. I sold the car not too long after I fixed it for something more family friendly.

 

[03cobra#694]

Just to let everyone know, it was a combination of a bad/sticking IAC and a tune trying to cover it up or compensate for it. Fixed the IAC and got it retuned, it ran perfect. I sold the car not too long after I fixed it for something more family friendly.

Thanks for the update.Sorry you had to sell it.

 

[Black Sex]

i had this problem on my 98 cobra and i woud take the IAC off and clean it out with carb cleaner then i would run/idle fine. After about 3 or 4 months i would have to do this again.

 

[Jefe]

1:38
when mine did the stalling event, it was the air filter had come loose from the bottom and i couldn't see that till i removed it
when i put the knfipk cai kit on it, its at 12 o clock, it stalled a few times right after install, then computer learned its new position and all is well. biggest problem with different tunes is hanging idles, the computer can usually overcome events thru drive cycling. clean maf w/maf cleaner, reset and check connection, there can be no air leaks,reprogram puter and drive cycle the car

Exactly. I had the BBK CAI before and it just didn't idle right and I had a cel light come on randomly all the time. Then I put the JLT on and within a week it felt better and I could tell the computer learned the new intake/maf position. Haven't had the cel light come back on since then. Ill move the MAF back to 10 when I get my tune done