Changed the alternator and now she won’t start

[MG0h3]

Picture was tricking me.

I thought a separate ground cable from the battery was running through the trunk to a real ground location

A. The body ground from the battery being the only ground is unacceptable. Surprised you haven’t been having major electrical problems like dimming lights etc.

B. As mentioned, it’s not even crimped. Bet you can pull that cable right out of that lug. Lucky you haven’t had a fire.

Fix that crimp for the body ground.

Run a separate cable to a major ground spot. You can tie in at the body mount if you want as it will still be a run to the battery post.


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[dwest731]

Starting has been off before so maybe it was that ground vs the starter all along.

I took the cable to the napa and they crimped it, didn’t have a measure for a new line running to the frame. Got a new connection for the battery end and going to cut to fresh wire and replace it. For the time being. That said that cable is getting continuity from end to end.

I picked up a tester to start doing those tests.

 

[kazman]

Is there a buss bar somewhere near where the battery was up front? How does the power get split off the positive battery cable in the engine bay?
Can you take a pic and post it?

 

[MG0h3]

Testing continuity for an open with no load is fine.

Load 150a to crank through a circuit and then see what happens.

If the circuit (cables and connections) have a weak point, it’ll show up under load as a voltage drop.

Throw the repaired cable back in and let us know.

Take a look at the bolt, lug, and area where it’s contacting the body for any signs of heat.


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[dwest731]

Crappy pic but I may have found my problem

 

[dwest731]

Ok so the starter is spinning now but the engine isn’t urning over. It’s progress none the less

 

[03cobra#694]

Bendix isn't making the starter hit the flywheel?

 

[dwest731]

Correct, the flywheel isn’t spinning

 

[dwest731]

I’m going to put the old starter back on and see if it will work

 

[Bullitt1448]

Possible the throw on the bendix is shorter on the new one, it doesn’t take much of a difference. Sorry to hear this is giving you such a hard time and congrats on finding the short

 

[dwest731]

I appreciate you guys l!

 

[hotcobra03]

I connected the 2 things I disconnected, the plug and the nut. I’m guessing the nut was the ground

Alt has positive line .

Ground is other,,


Originally battery spot.
Negative cable only went to drivers side engine mount on a stud. And from here a braided line is ran to chassis.

On Negative terminal had a second wire running to radiator support..

Positive runs to fuse box ,starter ..
Alt has a positive line to positive post to charge

Who ever moved battery may be at fault.

Did you test old starter when off car, or new before,

 

[dwest731]

I did have the old and new starter both bench tested prior to leaving the store both passed. I know the one I took off engages the flywheel so I’m going to put it back in tomorrow. I would have tonight but the family came first.

 

[MG0h3]

What’s the pic of that cable?


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[03' White Snake]

Definitely need to look at the battery relocation wiring. I wired mine a little different because I was having slow crank when it’s hot. When it’s cold she would crank right over. I have since fixed the slow crank by running the battery wire straight to the starter.

I run 1/0 wires, battery ground to trunk stud (part of my IRS stiffener plates) then another ground from that stud to engine mount. Then I have a ground from the backside of the alternator to the frame rail and the engine mount to frame rail. My brackets are powder coated so I wanted good ground for the alternator. Stock it is using the mounts to the engine. My positive wire goes from battery to disconnect switch, switch to starter and starter to alternator power. I then run a 2 GA wire from the disconnect switch to the fuse box on the battery side of the switch. This passes NHRA rules.

 

[dwest731]

The latest pic is of the ground going from the frame to the motor. The motor side didn’t have a nut holding the cable to the ground. How in the world it has lasted this long I don’t know. I had to manipulate the ground wire to get the alternator out, so I’m guessing that broke the slight connection it was making.

 

[kazman]

Do you race the car? If not, I would consider placing the battery back in the stock location and eliminating all that half-assery wiring.
j/s

 

[dwest731]

I don’t, that may be a solid option. I think I’m going to redo the ground from the battery like you guys have said and call it a day. I don’t drive it too much, she has just a touch over 28k miles so I’d like to keep them low is why

 

[03cobra#694]

Do you race the car? If not, I would consider placing the battery back in the stock location and eliminating all that half-assery wiring.
j/s

I was thinking the same.

 

[Bullitt1448]

The battery is better off in the trunk, just wire it properly and you will have no more issues. The engine bay is so much cleaner with a trunk mounted battery. There is plenty of good information on this site and on the net in general on how it should be done. Do it right, do it once.