Cause of the #8:

#8 Cylinder:


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SVT_4_me

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I always thought it was LS"x" as in generic since there are so many numbers. :shrug:

As in he ran a 10.xx...

this, LSX is LS and what ever nubmer GM throws up that day.

you are both wrong. the LSX is a different block, only available in aftermarket (no production cars come with the LSX block)...
 
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SVTStampede

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you are both wrong. the LSX is a different block, only available in aftermarket (no production cars come with the LSX block)...

Oh no, I'm familiar with the LSX. I didn't think we were discussing it.:shrug:

I know I've seen people use lsx for generic LS engines. Specifically on F-body forums.

Some dude on camaroz28.com said:
LS little x as Mike stated refers to any Gen III-IV motor the x is a variable.

LS big X is used in the brand name of some speciality parts for those engines as in LSX intake or LSX cast iron blocks

We sidetracked the hell out of this thread.:beer:
 
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SVT_4_me

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you guys are both back peddling now...

manolith was obviously talking about the LSX performance block, only available in aftermarket applications as i stated earlier.
 

SVTStampede

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you guys are both back peddling now...

manolith was obviously talking about the LSX performance block, only available in aftermarket applications as i stated earlier.

Not at all sincerely, and I hate word games. I now see he possibly meant that. I was confused at first that either 1) GM had changed something or 2) LS3 isn't an lsx(as in not all modular fords are interchangeable). He was replying to someone saying there are a lot of lsx engines in salvage yards.

:beer:
 
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CPRsm

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Only did the driver bank. Plugs are kinda pricey from ford. And since I'm paying, my ass is going to be cheap lol.
Left to right is 5-6-7-8
This shows the cyl heat favoring 6 and 8. The same as the 6k original plugs I pulled out. Although the dyno, unloaded showed less load than the customer had put the engine through while on the street. Normal. The timing marks were about the same on the original plugs, just with MORE heat. Marks were to the base on 5 and 7 on the original plugs. 6 and 8 favored again, but they were about down to where you see #7.
2011stockengineandtune0.jpg


In order from left to right, these were taken. This is #5
2011stockengineandtune0.jpg


2011stockengineandtune0.jpg


2011stockengineandtune0.jpg



2011stockengineandtune0y.jpg



Headers, exh and tune soon. New plugs and more pulls. I'll get some pics up afterwards.



Lets try not to derail this thread if we can
 
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ubeenbit

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Are you doing the tuning? If so what max timing can you get to?


Sent from my iPhone on an overpriced data plan
 

CPRsm

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I'm not sure. I'm sure that is needs a colder plug yet. Heat range on a plug does have a little to do with cyl, but a colder plug will not necessarily make less cyl temp. The heat range keeps the plug clean. Too cold and it fouls. If it is too hot, if can retain too much heat and cause the cyl to fire without spark. As long as it's not doing that, the heat range is fine. I see no signs of detonation or anything wrong, so I wouldn't go colder.


Are you doing the tuning? If so what max timing can you get to?
Sent from my iPhone on an overpriced data plan
No, I'm not doing to tuning. Honestly, I'm not trying to compete with 300 dollar mail order tunes. I don't have any idea what the total timing is or will be. I have been tuning for some time, just not these engines specifically. Or Mod engines for that matter. But an engine is an engine. Each one likes something a little different and if you know what you are doing you can figure that out on any engine. Will take me longer than someone who knows them. They will have a better idea of where to start, where I will creep up on it and try different things. I have tuned one mod motor and it's turbo'd. What I have seen is this things have very efficient combustion chambers and really just don't respond to timing like pushrod engines at all. Truth is with most fuel you have to go about 4-6 degrees past peak cyl pressure to start seeing detonation. I'll be tuning the 2011 that comes in here to be turboed for sure.
 

phack

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I'm not sure. I'm sure that is needs a colder plug yet. Heat range on a plug does have a little to do with cyl, but a colder plug will not necessarily make less cyl temp. The heat range keeps the plug clean. Too cold and it fouls. If it is too hot, if can retain too much heat and cause the cyl to fire without spark. As long as it's not doing that, the heat range is fine. I see no signs of detonation or anything wrong, so I wouldn't go colder.



No, I'm not doing to tuning. Honestly, I'm not trying to compete with 300 dollar mail order tunes. I don't have any idea what the total timing is or will be. I have been tuning for some time, just not these engines specifically. Or Mod engines for that matter. But an engine is an engine. Each one likes something a little different and if you know what you are doing you can figure that out on any engine. Will take me longer than someone who knows them. They will have a better idea of where to start, where I will creep up on it and try different things. I have tuned one mod motor and it's turbo'd. What I have seen is this things have very efficient combustion chambers and really just don't respond to timing like pushrod engines at all. Truth is with most fuel you have to go about 4-6 degrees past peak cyl pressure to start seeing detonation. I'll be tuning the 2011 that comes in here to be turboed for sure.


It looks like the second picture I posted back on the first page has a similar appearance to yours. The demarcation on my #8 ground strap is in a pretty similar place as your #8. No?
 

CPRsm

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Noooooo. Look at my first pic, the plug all the way to the right. You still see the color above the threads ? That is plating that hasn't burnt off. That plating on yours is gone, all the way to the base of the strap.
 
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phack

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Noooooo. Look at my first pic, the plug all the way to the right. You still see the color about the threads ? That is plating that hasn't burnt off. That plating on yours is gone, all the way to the base of the strap.

I looked at the original hi-res pictures on my computer and I think I also spy some peppering on the porcelain. I dont know how I missed that when I had the plug in my hand. I'm not driving the car until I can figure this out :nonono:

Here is a link to the hi-res: http://imageshack.us/f/10/img0649pf.jpg/
 
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