Battery's Keep Dying

TerminatorCobraJP

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Switch to the 2A setting and move the appropriate lead to the correct port.

FYI, when you attach the meter between the neg batt term and the neg batt post, you’re completing the ground circuit which is the same as putting the cable on the post/hooking the battery up.

This is when you’ll see a spike and then it’ll come down in a few minutes.

You don’t have an interceptor gauge or anything plugged into the OBDII port do you?

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No, I have no gauges. I was thinking about making the dual Aeroforce Interceptor gauges one of my next mods though, just for peace of mind. The car is basically bone stock, no pulley, no air intake. I'll try it on the 2A setting tomorrow and see what it does.

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MG0h3

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No, I have no gauges. I was thinking about making the dual Aeroforce Interceptor gauges one of my next mods though, just for peace of mind. The car is basically bone stock, no pulley, no air intake. I'll try it on the 2A setting tomorrow and see what it does.

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T4.

FYI the interceptors plug into the OBDII port which is powered all the time.

Unless you snip a wire on the interceptor harness and run it to fused key on power, you end up with a small draw.


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2003RedfireVert

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My car did that until I did the big 3 wire upgrade.

Already had a nations alt.


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Mine still does it even after a 185amp alt and the wire upgrade...par for the course on these New Edges...every New Edge I've ever owned or driven does it.
 

TerminatorCobraJP

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Pulled fuse number 39. This dropped the draw on my battery down to where it should be but I don't know where to begin to fix that. I don't think I can just leave number 39 out like I did with the Mach 460 amp fuse.

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BJCobra99

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Please keep this updated. I have a similar draw killing batteries on my 99. I just throw a battery tender on it every night lol. Good luck my friend!
 

JaCobro

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If it’s the 5 amp fuse 39 in the fuse box under the driver side dash it’s for fused battery power to the GEM. Pulling that fuse eliminates multiple interior circuits. It doesn’t look like stereo system is on fuse 39 circuit.
 

Black02GT

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This. I bet it's the Mach amps

Didn't see you already said it.

Barely drive mine so took the lazy way out. Detachable battery terminal. Not a real SVT car and drive it very rarely so what the hell.
 

Albatross

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I was just dealing with a similar issue. FYI my car took close to 45 minutes to go to sleep and get an accurate reading. The body control module will stay awake for a while.

My issue was with the alternator. Just because you see good voltage at the battery doesn’t mean the alternator is all good. My alternator, which was a brand new KMJ 250 amp unit, was leaking ac current past the diodes and rectifier. This actually causes the battery to drain while the engine is running. Got a rebuilt unit from KMJ that did the same thing. Bought a Mechman and now all is well.

An easy way to check for this is by hooking up a multimeter to the battery and checking for ac voltage there. If you have anything over 50 millivolts ac you have an issue with the diodes or the rectifier.
 

TerminatorCobraJP

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Today when I went out to test it the car hadn't been turned on since yesterday so it sat all night and I just went out, opened my door, popped the hood (made sure I shut the door) and then disconnected my negative terminal but it was still reading 150 milliamps.

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