Battery's Keep Dying

[TerminatorCobraJP]

It was way harder than it should have been but I got it out. I don't really have time to do a multimeter test right now but will update how everything goes now that this wire is removed.

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[Vinnie_B]

Parasitic Battery Drain test
​

NOTE: No factory-equipped vehicle should have more than a 25 mA (0.025 amp) – 50 mA (0.050) draw depending on the vehicle's accessories. Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 25 mA (0.025 amp) – 50 mA (0.050) with all the electrical accessories off and the vehicle at rest for at least 75 minutes (depending on region). Current drains can be tested with the following procedure.

NOTE: Many electronic modules draw 10 mA (0.010 amp) or more continuously.

NOTE: Typically, a drain of approximately 1 amp is attributed to an engine compartment lamp, glove compartment lamp or interior lamp staying on continually. Other component failures or wiring shorts are located by selectively pulling fuses to pinpoint the location of the current drain. When the current drain is found, the meter reading falls to an acceptable level.

NOTE: To accurately test the drain on a battery, use an in-line ammeter between the negative battery post and its respective cable. Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method.

1. If equipped, disable the approach detection feature.
2. Make sure the fuse box(es) are accessible without turning on the interior lights or the underhood lights.
3. Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes over 48 km/h (30 mph) to activate the vehicle systems.
4. NOTE: If equipped with an automatic transmission and the vehicle has an IPC PRNDL indicator, verify the gear selector lever is in the park position and is operating correctly. A fault in the park position indicator circuit can prevent modules from transitioning to sleep mode.

Allow the vehicle to sit with the ignition off for at least 75 minutes (depending on region) to allow the modules to time out/power down.

1. Connect a fused jumper wire (30A) between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the negative battery post without breaking the connection of the fused jumper wire.
3. NOTE: It is important that continuity is not broken between the battery and the negative battery cable when connecting the meter. If this happens, repeat the time out/power down procedure.

NOTE: The meter must be capable of reading milliamps and should have a 10 amp capability.

Connect a meter between the negative battery cable terminal and the negative battery post.

1. NOTE: If the meter settings need to be switched or the test leads need to be moved to another outlet, reinstall the fused jumper wire to avoid breaking continuity.

Remove the fused jumper wire.

1. If equipped with auxiliary battery(s), ensure that the auxiliary battery(s) are disconnected when measuring current draw at the primary battery, to ensure the meter or inductive amp probe measures all current draws present. Disconnect the auxiliary battery(s).
2. Note the amperage draw. Draw varies from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. Compare to a similar vehicle for reference.
3. NOTE: If the vehicle sits for an extended period of time and the battery drains, there is the possibility of a control module staying alive and not going into sleep mode. If a control module stays alive, it can result in battery drain. If a control module is suspected, isolate individual modules by disconnecting them one at a time and note if the excessive draw goes away.

NOTE: For vehicles equipped with aftermarket equipment containing electrical connections, disconnect the aftermarket to factory connections to isolate the body from the chassis.

NOTE: Vehicles may be equipped with multiple fuse box locations.

If the current draw is excessive, remove the fuses from the main fuse box one at a time and note the current drop.

1. When the current level drops to an acceptable level after removing a fuse, the circuit containing the excessive draw has been located. Reinstall the fuse and allow the vehicle to sit with the key out of the ignition for at least 75 minutes (depending on region) to allow the modules to time out/power down again.
2. The excessive draw can be isolated by continuing to pull subsystem fuses and disconnecting components. Do not reinstall the fuses or connect components until testing is finished. To correctly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed, then install one fuse and note the amperage draw, remove the fuse and install the next fuse. Continue this process with each fuse.
3. If excessive current draw is isolated to a specific module, verify if a module input is the cause of the concern. Refer to the corresponding workshop manual system operation and component description section to determine the inputs (hardwired or network messages) received by the module in question.
4. Check the Wiring Diagrams manual for any circuits that run from the battery without passing through the main fuse box or other fuse box(es). If the current draw is still excessive, disconnect these circuits until the draw is found. Disconnect the generator(s) electrical connections and retest if the draw cannot be located. The generator(s) may be internally shorted, causing the current drain.
5. If equipped with window one-touch up, perform the window motor initialization after the negative battery cable terminal is connected to the negative battery post.

Fuse #39 5amp Generic Electronic Module (GEM)


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[olympic]

I took inspiration from this thread and finally dug into my cars electrical system to find the phantom draw. Here's what it looked like before. This draw would kill the battery in a bout a week.

The culprits I found were:

Dual Aeroforce Interceptor gauges: 35 mA
Voltage display on the battery terminal: 20 mA
Aftermarket TPMS plugged into the 12v socket: 10 mA

After unplugging everything:

 

[MG0h3]

I took inspiration from this thread and finally dug into my cars electrical system to find the phantom draw. Here's what it looked like before. This draw would kill the battery in a bout a week.

View attachment 1787356

The culprits I found were:

Dual Aeroforce Interceptor gauges: 35 mA
Voltage display on the battery terminal: 20 mA
Aftermarket TPMS plugged into the 12v socket: 10 mA

After unplugging everything:



View attachment 1787358

I need to do the fix on the aero force as well. Car sat for up to six months no problem until I installed those.


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[TerminatorCobraJP]

I need to do the fix on the aero force as well. Car sat for up to six months no problem until I installed those.


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Well when you fix your start up a thread on it so I'll know what to do in the future when I get those gauges

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[MG0h3]

Well when you fix your start up a thread on it so I'll know what to do in the future when I get those gauges

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I think the info is actually on the aero force site now.

You just need to clip a wire that runs to the OBDII port for power and run it to key on power at the fuse box.


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[DSG2003Mach1]

i started unplugging the aeroforce when I know it's gonna sit for a couple days

 

[TerminatorCobraJP]

Update: Since removing that wire the cars battery has gave me zero issues. It has not died once. It seemed like removing the wire didn't affect anything in the car either, just got rid of the draw, until tonight and now I'm not so sure. It could be unrelated but my high beams no longer work like they should. This was not a problem before. If I pull the stick back towards me the high beams do come on and the light indicator on the dash does as well but when I push the stick forward the high beams do not come on and the indicator doesn't pop up either.

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[RX1Cobra]

Update: Since removing that wire the cars battery has gave me zero issues. It has not died once. It seemed like removing the wire didn't affect anything in the car either, just got rid of the draw, until tonight and now I'm not so sure. It could be unrelated but my high beams no longer work like they should. This was not a problem before. If I pull the stick back towards me the high beams do come on and the light indicator on the dash does as well but when I push the stick forward the high beams do not come on and the indicator doesn't pop up either.

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Glad to hear that removing the wire fixed the draw. I'm thinking the two are unrelated but you could try putting it back and see what happens. My high beams still function like normal after I pulled the wire.

Since they still work pulling back I'd start with the multifunction switch if the above didn't fix it. But that's just a guess.

No high beams!

www.moddedmustangs.com

 

[TerminatorCobraJP]

Glad to hear that removing the wire fixed the draw. I'm thinking the two are unrelated but you could try putting it back and see what happens. My high beams still function like normal after I pulled the wire.

Since they still work pulling back I'd start with the multifunction switch if the above didn't fix it. But that's just a guess.

No high beams!

www.moddedmustangs.com

I have since tried my high beams again. They work perfectly fine, just like they should. I don't know what was going on before. New Edges lol

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[98 svt]

I have since tried my high beams again. They work perfectly fine, just like they should. I don't know what was going on before. New Edges lol

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Sounds like the multifunction switch.

 

[thatdude305]

I had an incident Saturday night. I was driving, my ABS light came on and about 200 yards later my car just shut off. I towed it. The next day I brought a jump box and it started and ran perfect. The charging system is charging at a little over 11 volts, but no warning lights and the car starts right up and runs. I have it parked waiting for a new alternator, but it's just very strange. battery is 12 volts.

Anyone had a similar situation?

 

[TerminatorCobraJP]

I had an incident Saturday night. I was driving, my ABS light came on and about 200 yards later my car just shut off. I towed it. The next day I brought a jump box and it started and ran perfect. The charging system is charging at a little over 11 volts, but no warning lights and the car starts right up and runs. I have it parked waiting for a new alternator, but it's just very strange. battery is 12 volts.

Anyone had a similar situation?

My cars negative battery terminal was slightly loose and it caused my car to die after I hit a bump and so I had to replace my battery terminals, I replaced my alternator, pulled my Mach 460 amp fuse, went through like 3 or 4 battery's and my problem still wasn't solved until I removed that little wire under the dash. Sounds like your car has something different going on though, I never had any ABS lights come on.

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[thatdude305]

My cars negative battery terminal was slightly loose and it caused my car to die after I hit a bump and so I had to replace my battery terminals, I replaced my alternator, pulled my Mach 460 amp fuse, went through like 3 or 4 battery's and my problem still wasn't solved until I removed that little wire under the dash. Sounds like your car has something different going on though, I never had any ABS lights come on.

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Yeah, the ABS light is the weird part. I mean i touched it with a multi meter and it was running like 11 volts or amps lol. I'm not sure

 

[olympic]

Yeah, the ABS light is the weird part. I mean i touched it with a multi meter and it was running like 11 volts or amps lol. I'm not sure

The ABS light is just s side effect of the battery going dead. It should clear up once you have everything working again. It is curious though that the battery/alternator light didn't come on.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Just adding onto this thread.

Purchased a 2000 GT that was cheap because it kept killing batteries. Got it home and put my meter on the terminals and had a 0.36 amp draw. Pulled fuse 39 and it was gone.

I went right to the mach 460 amps. Pulled the rear seat (convertible) and unplugged the amps one at a time. One of them being disconnected resulted in the current draw dropping to 150 milliamps.

150 milliamps is about what the GEM draws until it goes to sleep. So i set up my meter to attach it to the battery terminal and lead, and closed the door and walked away. 40 mins i came back and saw the GEM had gone to sleep and the current draw was now 20 milliamps.

So it WAS the amp.

Opened it up, and Resistor 807 and 808 were cooked.

 

[98 svt]

Just adding onto this thread.

Purchased a 2000 GT that was cheap because it kept killing batteries. Got it home and put my meter on the terminals and had a 0.36 amp draw. Pulled fuse 39 and it was gone.

I went right to the mach 460 amps. Pulled the rear seat (convertible) and unplugged the amps one at a time. One of them being disconnected resulted in the current draw dropping to 150 milliamps.

150 milliamps is about what the GEM draws until it goes to sleep. So i set up my meter to attach it to the battery terminal and lead, and closed the door and walked away. 40 mins i came back and saw the GEM had gone to sleep and the current draw was now 20 milliamps.

So it WAS the amp.

Opened it up, and Resistor 807 and 808 were cooked.
View attachment 1803702
View attachment 1803703

I as well had a battery draw on my 98 for a couple years. Same thing, ended up being the Mach amps. I swapped out all the audio gear last spring and no more drain on the battery.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I as well had a battery draw on my 98 for a couple years. Same thing, ended up being the Mach amps. I swapped out all the audio gear last spring and no more drain on the battery.

I'll likely go that route as well down the road. But in researching this problem, 9 times out of 10 when folks had a battery drain it ended up being the amps in the rear. SO that was the first thing I disconnected and it solved the problem.

 

[TerminatorCobraJP]

I'll likely go that route as well down the road. But in researching this problem, 9 times out of 10 when folks had a battery drain it ended up being the amps in the rear. SO that was the first thing I disconnected and it solved the problem.

I believe my Mach 460 amps got wet which is what caused mine to pull a draw. My car is also a vert, the rear glass unfortunately leaks some water down into the little space behind the rear seats and I think it got to my amps from there.

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[Mustang5L5]

I believe my Mach 460 amps got wet which is what caused mine to pull a draw. My car is also a vert, the rear glass unfortunately leaks some water down into the little space behind the rear seats and I think it got to my amps from there.

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Yes. My car is also a convertible. The top was recently changed prior to me buying it, but I also saw evidence of water intrusion in the rear right on the amps. Once i pulled the backseat, my confidence unplugging the amps would solve the issue increased.