Any interest in a Group Buy on a Killer Chiller?

Willie

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58 degrees out the vent? Sounds like the system really is taxed by adding something else in the loop- 40-42 degrees outlet temp would be ok, 58 would suck!

Buy the valve from Joe like I did. This allows you to turn the KC off and on.

Willie
 

que4dog

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My cabin temps don't have to be freezing as long as I'm comfortable. The performance advantages of this kit outweigh a few degrees of cabin temps and my cooling may not change at all due to increased air flow because I'm planning to eliminate the heat exchanger that blocks the ac condenser.
 

slagburn

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Wasn't bashing, just on the fence about the whole thing. No doubt the system works but what if your compressor failed? Sky high IAT's without a heat exchanger and larger reservoir to fall back on. I'd hate to pop a motor because of a compressor failure.
 

Doug1227

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The 58* at the vent was sitting in my driveway idling in 92* weather. I'm sure that under different conditions, it would yield different results. I'm really looking forward to everyone's experiences as you get the kit installed. We can even share notes and ideas on how to make the kit even more effective. I'm all for that. Regarding losing a motor due to an A/C compressor failing, my Aeroforce constantly displays what I consider the two most critical things. Water and Air temps. And if the a/c fails, I'm pretty sure I'd not only see it on the gauge, but also at the vent. I turned mine off the other day just to see how volatile the fluid temps were. I got a good 5-10 minutes of city cruising before the temps were where they used to be before the KC. And that was in 90+ temps.
 

que4dog

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Wasn't bashing, just on the fence about the whole thing. No doubt the system works but what if your compressor failed? Sky high IAT's without a heat exchanger and larger reservoir to fall back on. I'd hate to pop a motor because of a compressor failure.

I understand, but also the pump could fail and the same thing would happen the way the car is set up from the factory. I just have to monitor the car as usual to catch any issues as they arrive before they cause any major problems.
 

que4dog

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...And if the a/c fails, I'm pretty sure I'd not only see it on the gauge, but also at the vent. I turned mine off the other day just to see how volatile the fluid temps were. I got a good 5-10 minutes of city cruising before the temps were where they used to be before the KC. And that was in 90+ temps...

Good point and helpful information!
 

slagburn

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I understand, but also the pump could fail and the same thing would happen the way the car is set up from the factory. I just have to monitor the car as usual to catch any issues as they arrive before they cause any major problems.

True, the temps would probably stay lower longer with a failed pump in a conventional setup because of all the extra water. I'm probably splitting hairs though..

Seems like a really neat product, I'd probably have ordered one but am busy melting the wallet with a motor build. Will be watching for everyone's results.
 

Doug1227

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I would imagine a pump outage would be even worse than an A/C outage. At least with an A/C outage, you're still circulating water as opposed to it just sitting there.
 

Buster

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Wasn't bashing, just on the fence about the whole thing. No doubt the system works but what if your compressor failed? Sky high IAT's without a heat exchanger and larger reservoir to fall back on. I'd hate to pop a motor because of a compressor failure.

A good fail safe for this is pulling timing based on IAT, I pull 10 degrees at 200 degrees, could even go more if needed.
 

Doug1227

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I haven't confirmed with MY tuner, but I've heard that most are beginning to pull timing at IAT2's around 150*. I'm sure it gradually pulls more and more though like you mention.
 

Willie

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The stock 2008 GT500 tune starts pulling timing at 125* F. It's interesting how Ford uses a two-dimensional table with a multiplier. The maximum timing pulled is 18 degrees.

I write my own tunes. I have changed to start pulling at 140* F. And to simplify things, my entire multiplier table is set to 1.00.

Willie
 
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Willie

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The stock 2008 GT500 tune starts pulling timing at 125* F. It's interesting how Ford uses a two-dimensional table with a multiplier. The maximum timing pulled is 18 degrees.

I write my own tunes. I have changed to start pulling at 140* F. And to simplify things, my entire multiplier table is set to 1.00.

Willie

Let me clarify my prior statement. Ford uses a two-dimensional table with a multiplier, effecting making this a three-dimensional table that includes air temp, volumetric efficiency (Ford calls this "load"), and rpm. Timing retard due to air temp at 125 degrees is actually zero but it's a linear graph that from this point. From there on, timing is pulled. The maximum is 18 degrees at 200* F.

On my tune, retard is zero at 140* F but starts pulling from this temp with a maximum of 15 degrees at 200* F. Hope this makes sense.

Willie
 
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stang910

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The killer chiller is a great product! I had one on my 03 cobra with an overdriven eaton and the car never felt down on power even when it was 100* out. Without the killer chiller you could really tell the car was heat soaked. As for cabin temps the killer chiller did tax the AC on hot humid days, but the trade off was well worth it. The one thing I wish I could of done was bypass the killer chiller completely with a switch for those hot and humid days and that would of made it perfect.
 

Kid Smitty

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I'm in.

We're on a diet right now. Any idea of weight gains, or loss if I shitcan the HE?

Thanks,

Jack
 

Doug1227

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I added your name to the list in the original post. As far as weight, it's probably a wash between the KC and the HE. Maybe even a loss. I didn't weigh mine, but there's not much to it.
 

Doug1227

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If it's any consolation, this morning on the way to work it was 85* and city driving over a 20 minute period the A/C at the vent got down to 46*. Obviously, it was cooler out in the morning than it was during the 58* degree vent test several posts further up.
 

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