That's the same clutch I am looking at getting.The RST I think it is. the 800hp clutch.
That's the same clutch I am looking at getting.The RST I think it is. the 800hp clutch.
I can tell you that the RST will hold the power 525+ hp when setup right. Get a billet throw out bearing sleeve and a ford racing TO bearing. It is also a good time to put in the LDC cooling mod.
I have a McLeod Twin and it chatters like crazy. The steel flywheel helped the chatter but it's still there.
I have had 2 Mcleod twin discs RST & RXT both with aluminum flywheels and neither one ever chattered, make sure its installed right.
I have decided to go with the stock aluminum flywheel resurfaced. Sounds like that is going to be the best suited for my setup. Thanks again for the opinions and advise. What is the proper break in procedure for the RST twin disc to the guys running them?
That is totally false.
That I suspect is the norm.
If you don't NEED the extra inertia for hard drag launches (which also helps break parts) then I really do not understand the attraction of the heavier steel flywheel.
We used to KILL for a light weight aluminum flywheel, now that we have a nice one stock, some guys are going all NUTZ with old school drag tricks all over the place and putting heavy ass fly wheels in.:nonono:
I fail to see the need or advantage on a mostly street car.
The lighter fly wheel car will go up through the gears quicker, the only thing given up is a little launch inertia.
On a car that sees lively cornering the reduced Gyro is highly beneficial.
A fly wheel has some of the largest diameter rotating weight on the car, it will rob a good amount of power.
It's a no brainer to me. Give me a new insert for the stock flywheel(also Mcloud) and plug in that twin disc.
Just bed it in correctly, which applies to any clutch.