Engine out of the car on a stand, theyre swapping my coyote for an Aluminator.
Aluminator information needed.
- Thread starter D.T.R
- Start date
Engine out of the car on a stand, theyre swapping my coyote for an Aluminator.
What other mods have you done to support this power ?
Ati balancer, pulley, idler, fuel....?
I am still debating between an MMR build block or the Aluminator swap. The fact that i need to open the Aluminator to put billet gears doesnt make me too happy. I know everyone says dont forget the gears but are they really needed at 700rwhp..
The failures are rpm related not horsepower related. Oil pump gears are only needed if you spin the hell out of the motor. If you keep the stock rpm limit in your tune there is no reason to run the oil pump gears other than a bit more piece of mind. So if you make 750 rwhp at the factory rpm limit there is really no need for the gears. But if your making 500 rwhp at 8000 rpms you better be running the gears amoungst other things. Valve springs ect.
I am definitely will be hitting 7300-7500 since my rev limiter is at 7500.
Also the Aluminator has the Boss valve springs so it should be enough for me. I want reliability and 700rwhp...for now
I will drag race the car as well as track day where ill be running high rpm for much longer period than drag racing.
I read somewhere that Ford idea for putting the gear only in the sc version of the aluminator was that this engine would be used more for drag racing and thus endure more when the car would launch thus increasing the risk of shattering the gears..
I will probably get them anyway but i still find that 500$ of labour is a lot especially when the engine is out.
If i go with MMR i wont have this issue since the block will be disassembled anyway. My issue will then be do i trust my local installer to do a great job of putting it back together.
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500 to install is because there is more to just pulling the front cover off to replace the pump gears. The oik pump has to be taken apart ,You have to remove the timing chains off the cams re seal everything as well as make sure the timing is set right. Also make sure who ever is doing the install they get a new crank bolt.. the ones installed and factory ones are torque to yield ..
Thanks for the input.
So it could take 4-5 hours is that what you say ?
I'm far from being an expert i was just surprised that it could be so demanding to swap the gears.
Would it make the just much easier if i was getting the pump with gears alltogether instead of just the gears.
If i do it it would be Brenspeed that does it for me as i would trade my engine.
Looking at MMR also...decision, decision...
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I'm also doing a motor just not 100% sure yet but I'm leaning towards MMR.
I'm dealing with Mark he's been great over email and the phone. He has gone over everything with me which makes me feel very comfortable. I have always stayed local for my builds but here in Fl I don't know anyone enough to trust there ability. Mike and Larry @ L/M built all my motors back in the day when I lived in Philly I was pretty lucky to have one of the best builders in my back yard.
I also have a couple problems with the Aluminator. The 11:1 motor doesn't have the gears and the forged pistons are made out of 4032 alloy not the 2618 alloy that all the top piston manufactures use. (Diamond, Manley, JE, CP ect)
The gears aren't my problem because that's an easy swap but after u swap the gears u just kissed any possible warrenty good bye.
Even know there are many cars going fast with the 4032 alloy (high silicon) it still scares me. If u talk to any of the top engine builders they all use 4032 Forged.
I'm dealing with Mark he's been great over email and the phone. He has gone over everything with me which makes me feel very comfortable. I have always stayed local for my builds but here in Fl I don't know anyone enough to trust there ability. Mike and Larry @ L/M built all my motors back in the day when I lived in Philly I was pretty lucky to have one of the best builders in my back yard.
I also have a couple problems with the Aluminator. The 11:1 motor doesn't have the gears and the forged pistons are made out of 4032 alloy not the 2618 alloy that all the top piston manufactures use. (Diamond, Manley, JE, CP ect)
The gears aren't my problem because that's an easy swap but after u swap the gears u just kissed any possible warrenty good bye.
Even know there are many cars going fast with the 4032 alloy (high silicon) it still scares me. If u talk to any of the top engine builders they all use 4032 Forged.
8 rib drive, fuel system, an ice box. Still running stock headers, stock resonators and over the axles, GT500 mufflers and an X pipe.
It should only take a couple of hours, engine out, for someone who has done it a couple of times.
The structural integrity of the block itself comes into question long before the pistons do, to me anyways.
Hmm
I hear you on that but that doesn't mean the block will give out before the pistions. Detonation is a big problem for pump gas guys and I'm pretty sure the 2618 alloy holds up better.
I see your going fast and your combo is working for u but u must know there's a diff in material. No dout Ford uses those pistons because there cheaper and emission friendly. If u didn't do the Aluminator you would have went with a 2618 piston.
I hear you on that but that doesn't mean the block will give out before the pistions. Detonation is a big problem for pump gas guys and I'm pretty sure the 2618 alloy holds up better.
I see your going fast and your combo is working for u but u must know there's a diff in material. No dout Ford uses those pistons because there cheaper and emission friendly. If u didn't do the Aluminator you would have went with a 2618 piston.
Same here, i spoke to some other guy at MMR and his recommandations were all over the place. I pm'd mark and he will get me a proper quotation for my need as well as the real selling price..!
I wish i lived in the states close to one of the big guys...tough to hit the road for 12h with a family so shipping my stuff makes it more expensive.
MMR seems to be fair price wise, i only need to ensure my local shop can re assemble the engine fine after..lol
Barring detonation from poor tuning, I'd be willing to bet the block fails before anything in the rotating assembly.
Detonation is a big problem regardless of what material you use, and will destroy pistons. The solution to detonating is not to use different pistons. The solution is to not detonate. These cars have knock sensors. Detonation is a tuning problem, usually brought on by "tooners" shutting off or desensitizing the knock sensors.
I am aware of most of the different alloys used in piston construction.
Or because they don't require the increased piston-to-bore clearance needed with a higher expansion piston, reducing blow-by and eliminating cold start piston slap.
I would have?
Hmm
I'm not knocking the aluminator it seems to be awesome.
I just think there's possible better choices out there.
Good luck with your ride.
I'm not knocking the aluminator it seems to be awesome.
I just think there's possible better choices out there.
Good luck with your ride.
There certainly are better engines, I agree. If I could justify the cost, and the Aluminator wasn't doing what I needed it to do, I would have an L&M Tornado block setup.
Happy 4th!
The way i see things an Alluminator is a drop in ready crate engine that needs nothing but to be hooked up and run...a long block on the other hand still requires using alot of tour oem parts...i think i did a great thing with my setup...i sold the oem motor complete for $4200 i added $3500 to that and got an Alluminator 11:1 from Steve at Tousley Ford...i dont see how anyone could go wrong with this method its a much cheaper option then an all out build and if tuned well can last aslong as any "built" motor....got mine in January for $7560 shipped from Tousley...sure mine doesnt have oil pump gears but it has better pistons,rods,rod bolts, and valve springs....im at 633rwhp on 10psi pump gas at low timing(17)...factory built motor with better internals for around $3500 + install cost is something i couldnt pass up in te end....
Youre in Canda like me, how did you get the Aluminator here for that price.
Its one thing to import small stuff from the Champlain border but an engine...uhhh.
Im interested in knowing since im going that route too.
Better pistons, rods etc than what motor?
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