while its true that you can build two short blocks for what an aluminator cost. you have to remember that the aluminator is a complete long block that only needs an alternator to run.
Aluminator information needed.
- Thread starter D.T.R
- Start date
while its true that you can build two short blocks for what an aluminator cost. you have to remember that the aluminator is a complete long block that only needs an alternator to run.
And transferring heads while the motor is already out of the car takes um all of an hour .. so look t not valid.. remember the stock motor comes out , to me the aluminator is for people or shops that do t have the capability or the resources to build a short block. But than to me find I a shop to build a basic motor ( that's all they are) and saving a few thousand bucks to me is worth it.
thats not the point. i know what it takes to transfer the heads from one block to another. but what im saying is that you pretty much have a complete motor with the aluminator. thats why it costs that much. you can sell your stock coyote long block for around 4 grand and for an extra 3700 bucks you can have an aluminator. in the end you wont really save much by building your short block. the low compression aluminator already has billet oil pump gears. if you put a $$ figure on the time you will spend on the tear down and add the cost of machining and the rotating assembly and head gaskets and oil pump gears the amount of money that you will spend building your short block will be about the same or more than what you can get an aluminator for which it all could be done in less than a day. ofcourse you can build your short block to be stronger than the short block on the aluminator but it will cost more than 4 grand. this is all assuming that you have a healthy coyote but usually when you built your short block is a healthy one because most of the time when they pop the block is history.
Assuming you can sell the engine if its blown sure I guess. But usually a blown bottom end the block is re usable. Also if its only a piston that cracked or rings that went bad like most of the 5l do than the block is fine e and 9/10 so are the heads so it is cheaper to have a short block and than transfer the heads and now you will have a motor that is stronger and built with better parts .. In the end its all whatever the shop wants to do or the user has the capabilities to install or build. Just different preferences for people.. the aluminator is good but not as good as stated other options.
Isn't the title of this thread Aluminator information needed? Or did it change to Who here thinks they can build an engine at half the price, twice as good, in their garage, with dad's 88 piece craftsman tool kit, in under two hours?
Ha ha this guy ^ .. guess your right buy aluminator because it is a turn key engine but have take apart to add parts because its so great and void that awesome warranty... buy aluminator because it has the same heads as a factory gt . And $70 valve springs ...
On and your paying ford for the labor so in the end its still more expensive than a built short block for those that popped a stock 5.0
There are pro and cons but for people asking weather or not to build a motor or just drop more coin for a long block we are only stating other options.. I mean shit there are so many aluminators in so many of the fastest cars ??? No... but built motors with stronger , better , more reliable pieces.. that's all not ruffling the guys running aluminators....
On and your paying ford for the labor so in the end its still more expensive than a built short block for those that popped a stock 5.0
There are pro and cons but for people asking weather or not to build a motor or just drop more coin for a long block we are only stating other options.. I mean shit there are so many aluminators in so many of the fastest cars ??? No... but built motors with stronger , better , more reliable pieces.. that's all not ruffling the guys running aluminators....
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Your right. I'm going to run down right now and start pulling my piece of shit Aluminator out so I can keep up with you :loser:
don't be all pissy with me because I am stating facts.
put oil pump gears in the 11:1 motor that some opt for you should/need to put the oil pump gears in, requiring the removal of parts Ie: front cover, timing chains, oil pump etc.. which means that warranty that people often buy the motor for is voided... so if it was or is going to be voided why not just build a block for under $7500+?
funny thing is I bet you know that that aluminator is just a step up from stock but it is in no league of built motors .. FACT
put oil pump gears in the 11:1 motor that some opt for you should/need to put the oil pump gears in, requiring the removal of parts Ie: front cover, timing chains, oil pump etc.. which means that warranty that people often buy the motor for is voided... so if it was or is going to be voided why not just build a block for under $7500+?
funny thing is I bet you know that that aluminator is just a step up from stock but it is in no league of built motors .. FACT
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CPRsm
Active Member
Please explain how the same crank, block, heads, cams, and H beams make a "built" engine any different than custom. H beams by damn near anyone have been proven to over 1000rwhp+ in mod motors. I only know of one person to claim to break a set of gears. And last I saw was they thought so. But didn't see any comformation. Have you seen any broken aluminators? FACT is, lots of guys are going fast with them and until they come in a better block their only real downside is piston alloy. But again, any broken motors yet? Think Ford will really warranty anything broken from excessive power?
Not saying that they are breaking left and right!!! But have you on this platform seen or heard of breaking a built short block? and difference is most companies (livernois,MMR,etc) have a warranty on the short block after adding oil pump gears and etc etc.. An aluminator if not going 9.5:1 don't have the oil pump gears in them and if added well that voids that warranty.. And the build of the aluminator isn't bad that it's considered junk. It's that the Mahle rod and piston material is just not as strong as the Manley, Ross, Diamond, CP, JE etc.. If the pistons were say one of the previously mentioned than it would Just be the block being the weakness more than the materials of the internals.
CPRsm
Active Member
If they're not breaking left and right piston strength doesn't seem to be a problem. They would be in different leagues if you were comparing the Aluminator to billet cranks and tool steel rods.
all i know is that if you have a coyote in good conditions an aluminator would cost less than 4 grand and if you do the job your self it could be done in a weekend without having much downtime at all. and it will be more than enough for the power that most of us are hunting for.
I'm not pissy. I would have to take you seriously to get pissy.
Aluminator has MANLEY rods. The pistons are more than adequate, the weakness IS the block. You have no FACTS, you have some infatuation with saying "built motor"...
BUILT MOTOR! :loser:
Just to clarify NO vendor is covering a shortblock thats been boosted. Ive looked into this and ford has fine print that says any nitrous, turbo or s/c used on either 11:1 or 9.5:1 aluminators will void the 2/24 warranty.
Again a valid point. People are mixing up crate motors and longblocks. An aluminator saves you a lot of hassle because its just doing a motor swap. If you order a longblock from mmr, l&m or livernois you MUST provide your own valve covers, oil pan, etc or that will sky rocket the cost tremendously. Yes you can save a few bucks over an aluminator if you do the swap from your stock motor to it but at the same time selling a stock motor will almost always make going thr aluminator route more cost effective. You cant beat a built motor for 3000-4000 depending on what you clear on your stock motor.
Amen bro, Amen. The hate is strong in this one.
I'm not leaning towards the aluminator because i can't take apart my stock one, have a machine shop assemble the bottom end and then myself assemble the rest and throw it back in the car. I'm working 60 to 65hrs a week AND i have another car i constantly wrench on, so the time to wrench on the 5.0 isn't as much. With that being said, i rather continue to work 60+hrs a week, make really good money on OT... which helps pay for an aluminator that can be swapped in the same day. I ordered a new car and I'm not looking to have the car taking apart for 6 months.
That's what I'm saying. Why put billet rods in a motor where the block itself will be more of a limiting factor than H-beam rods ?
If people have made/are making 1000whp out of these aluminators, then they are serving their purpose. They're advertised as 1000hp-turnkey, ready to go motors... and that's what i need. I do not intend to make more than 1000whp, and I don't want the down time. I can look up the torque specs, and what not... but i'm trying to make this whole overhaul of the car as simple as possible even if that costs me more money.
ding ding ding dingggggg
Exactly
Seems like this guy is very opinionated over something he's not that well informed. If you ever looked up the Aluminator specs, you'd see everywhere that it has manley rods :nonono:
Exactly. I would love to actually take mine apart, take the heads off, and so on... I've done it on a 4.6L ... and about a million times in my Honda. It's fun.. and you learn a ton. But I don't have the time to do that, NOR can I rely on any of the machine shops around here. I simply don't trust them. They are all about pushrod motors... and they look at DOHC motors as some kind of alien motor... so I don't want to risk that.
Also i don't even want to get started with the "warranty" other vendors give on their shortblocks... I've seen a couple of horror stories locally... guess what they blame it on when they don't know what to tell you and don't want to pay to fix or replace your bottom end? "it's the tuning"
Where's all the sick crsx smilies when you need 'em :banana:
The aluminator does not come with boss cylinder heads correct?
-Thomas
-Thomas
It comes with stock GT heads with Boss springs.
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