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I like gatorback because they don't make noise. The best place to buy belts is rock auto. I've gotten them for as little as $3

Centerforce dyad if you want a trouble free install.

There were 2 listed and one was $300+ and the other was $500+, do you know the difference? I assumed one was the KM and the other mph

I never had any luck with KMJ ones. I bought his original 3g and couldn't get much over 12v. I reached out to him and he upgraded me to the 200amp for just the cost difference between the two and told me to keep the original. The 200 still didn't do any better so I swapped on my PA 200 amp 3g...

Wow what a disaster. The fuel system isn't the problem, watch your fuel pressure at start up. I assume it's rock solid which is all the Fore can do. You assume the shop set the fuel pressure to stock so all you have to do is log the pid fuel pressure drop across injectors, it should be 39-40lb...

You might hit up Malcolm and get his thoughts. He had a heavily modifed Porsche and obviously a Terminator. I THINK the Porsche is gone but old yellow is still around.

Once I had the car cover on my car and while trying to be lazy I only partially removed the cover and tried to open the door on the car and the cover was catching the window but I pulled the door open enough to get into the car and do whatever I was trying to do. After that my window motor...

If you research cluster swaps there is a circuit board on the back of the cluster that stores the mileage and it can be swapped over to another cluster. FYI National Parts Depot still has brand new Ford clusters at very reasonable prices. I was thinking about grabbing a spare as either an...

I bought one from Motion Raceworks to put on my IC tank just like that. Its not vented, but seems to be working. I used my daughters play dough to check hood clearance and I had plenty of room with my TF hood vents.

The Whipple instructions for my old 2.3 had the belt lengths listed in it. Have you reached out to Whipple?

I wonder if I should go RST since power isn't a concern for me.

I haven't heard of much at take off but most of the noise I've heard of was lugging at cruise but you kind of have me thinking. You'd think take off would make a lot of noise too. So is it safe to say you only hear the marble noise if you drive in to high of a gear when you shouldn't be? or it...

The short answer is the car I'm building for her is an original v8, 4 spd car and I'd like to keep with that. It becomes slightly more important to me because the car was actually owned by my dad 50 years ago and he sold it in 1973. I stumbled across it winter of 2021 on facebook half way across...

Some of you may know I have a DYAD in my 03 Cobra and I love it and I have no plans to ever change it. I'm building a 64 Falcon for my daughter and the car is receiving a 7.3 Godzilla motor which for people that don't know runs Mod Motor clutch/flywheel/bell housing. The car will be basic bolt...

They should be better my experience was not that way. My L&M heads leaked like the Titanic with the viton. I ordered a set of new viton from MHS and had a set of the felpro. When doing my seals I found a socket that fit the felpros but they were a snug fit. I then tried one of the vitons off...

https://www.freedomracing.com/4v-v8-2v-v8-and-4-0l-v6-valve-spring-compressor-st-126.html?___store=default&gclid=CjwKCAjwysipBhBXEiwApJOcu2zAMti6VshSQIVkZrw7Fnevm1HJt3dnJOBQBk90PicvBGmAv7w6LhoCGXEQAvD_BwE

I needed a shorter intake manifold for my 64 Falcon Godzilla swap, naturally this came out a few weeks after I bought my BTR intake. It did make me feel better about the coolant running through the intake and the water neck setup. I think Holley could have made a special water neck or something...

Freedom racing makes a tool and I did the entire pass side in the car, it was a nightmare. Some valve locks I'd get back in under a minute others I'd battle an hour. I think the one in the toughest spot went the quickest thank God. I put a new DC head on the drivers side and had a used DB head...

Got a link....I think I need to see this.

Last I knew they didn't sell the hat separately because they want to assemble them to insure they're correct. That's what the added cost of Fore buys you.

The best suggestion is to get a Fore hat, unless they've changed the pump fits into the hat and seals with an o-ring.

I've always heard you should have the pressure plate/flywheel combo balanced. My DYAD came balanced and has marks on it to make sure you keep it aligned. Another + of the DYAD over the McLeod

They use to have a forum but they eliminated that. I used their webform as well. I mean I left a voicemail on the owners cell phone lol. It's a shame because I had the thing for years and would have bought another if that's what was needed but with no tech support I wasn't touching another one...

Man I had aeroforce issues and I emailed them and got nothing. I even found an old post on another board with the owners cell phone number and called it and left a message..... nothing. I yanked it in favor of a speedhut.

I wouldn't put wiring/interior in until the body is repaired. If you end up doing welding on the car you probably don't want things that can burn. At one point I think you mentioned removing everything from the firewall forward, don't put anything in the car until the front clip is repaired and...