If you're worried about your warranty, you should have the dealership do all your oil changes.
Official GT 5.0/Boss 302 UOA thread
- Thread starter UnleashedBeast
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If you're worried about your warranty, you should have the dealership do all your oil changes.
and make ZERO changes or modification to your engine/transmission/etc.
I received many days of laughs from GT500 owners worried about their warranty when not using the 5W-50 that Ford recommended. They sure were not worried about warranty with that super small supercharger pulley and custom tune....were they. Oh no, not until the lubricant did they freak out about warranty.
You will have a better warranty using my recommendation, let me explain.
If your engine ever failed internally, Ford may chose to perform a used oil analysis. Using a recommended formulation by me, you will pass with flying colors. Things in the UOA Ford will look for.
1. Viscosity
2. TBN
3. ZDDP
All three of these areas on a UOA will far surpass the minimum standard required to rule out oil failure. Therefore, it would be impossible for Ford to void your warranty blaming the lubricant.
Currently I am running the recommended factory weight in Royal Purple. I think that is 5w20. I have a 12 GT. Anway I am interested in this and would more than gladly get you an oil analysis on my stuff. I actually am about another gas tank away from changing my oil. I have always used RP and changed at 6k miles. I am however very interested with Amsoil. I love my purple stuff and if I can get better longevity / performance with Amsoil I am all ears. I am also interested in changing my tranny fluid to something better as well. So I am all ears about Amsoil.
It really depends on your climate, the primary use of the car, and what months of the year the car is used.
If driven year round, Amsoil AZO 0W-30 in a northern climate is a great choice. Despite the viscosity spread, it's still very shear resistant as proven in a few Ford modular engines.
Southern cars that are mostly warm weather driven with temps rarely in the 30's, I'd recommend the robust 10W-30 ATM
Amsoil ASL 5W-30 seems to be the compromise in the middle of both formulation, giving you a little bit of both worlds.
Some northern owners store their cars in the winter. Since they are only using the car when temps are higher than 40*F, they can use Amsoil ATM 10W-30 for aggressive driving and high HP applications. My goal in choosing a formulation dependent on climate is a viscosity spread that works with the temperature variations the car will be used in while minimizing NOACK volatility. The good news is, even AZO 0W-30 (with the highest NOACK @ 8.75%) is still lower than Mobil 1's, Rotella's, Motorcraft's, and Pennzoil's best formulations.
*Pennzoil Ultra may be excluded from that statement. Their new Ultra GTL (gas to liquid) formulation claims a NOACK of only 5 to 6%. However, I have yet to see this proven in third party testing.
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My latest UOA using Valvoline Synpower 5w-20 and a Motorcraft FL500S filter. The top lines are this oil analysis (Sample ending in 3103). The other two lines are with Amsoil Sig Series and OE series. Just goes to show that Amsoil Sig Series is a better performer. Note that a 1/2 quart of so of filler Synpower 5w-20 was used, they didn't list that.
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Even though you do not have TBN testing from CAT, you can tell the additive package of Amsoil Signature Series is far superior in detergent additives compared to Valvoline.
Calcium (Ca) is almost double what is found in your latest sample and ZDDP (Zn & P) are also a bit higher. Both fall under API SN guidelines.
I can't give a win to Amsoil for wear metals, as your engine seems to be very easy on any lubricant used in it. However, I can say that Amsoil will last twice as long as Valvoline when used for extended drain intervals.
I'm curious why the 5.0 engine is hit or miss on engine oil consumption. 1/2 quart for 5436 miles is excellent, but some consume a quart every 1,000 miles.
Must be faulty piston rings. Your consumption appears to be very low. With so little wear metals present, you should be performing once a year oil changes with Amsoil Signature Series up to 15,000 miles. Your previous sample of SS was wasted.
Calcium (Ca) is almost double what is found in your latest sample and ZDDP (Zn & P) are also a bit higher. Both fall under API SN guidelines.
I can't give a win to Amsoil for wear metals, as your engine seems to be very easy on any lubricant used in it. However, I can say that Amsoil will last twice as long as Valvoline when used for extended drain intervals.
I'm curious why the 5.0 engine is hit or miss on engine oil consumption. 1/2 quart for 5436 miles is excellent, but some consume a quart every 1,000 miles.
Must be faulty piston rings. Your consumption appears to be very low. With so little wear metals present, you should be performing once a year oil changes with Amsoil Signature Series up to 15,000 miles. Your previous sample of SS was wasted.
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Thanks Troy for updating and feedback.
Twice a year oil changes, I drive ~30k a year.
I had one fill up of Synpower 5w-30 in my shop left so I went ahead and refilled with that and am running a Napa Gold (Wix) filter. I'll probably run it for 6,000-6,500 which should get me into May before the next oil change which will be OE series as I have one change of it left from a customer I sold some to, who never picked it up. After that it's Signature Series for at least 12,500 miles (I'll get a UOA with TBN on that change just to have piece of mind that there's sufficient TBN left to go to 15k+, as I'm sure there will be).
IIRC someone who disassembled their 'yote after blowing it up found a couple of upside down rings. It was either on one of the Stang forums or one of my CB750 forums, I can't remember which.
I've been getting a fair amount of oil in the JLT Oil Sep on the SVTP, even with just simple highway cruising. You can grab the UOAs from the SVTP GT off the Blackstone article from the front page.
Exactly what I expect. This happened to Jeep in the 2007+ 4 door Wrangler. A friend owns one, consumes ~1 quart every 1,000 miles. Reading on Jeep forums confirmed improperly installed piston rings. The OEM says it's normal consumption, but this is a simple ploy to prevent spending millions of dollars on a TSB to fix the issue. They are not required by federal law to do a recall because it isn't a safety issue. I think it's lame, honestly. They should repair their screw up.
Thank you for the heads up, I missed it. I will post it here so it gets updated to the list on the next pass. This is the first known sample of HPS from a Coyote.
At first glance, it appears HPS sheared to a heavier 20 grade lubricant. I'd guess due to fuel dilution since the lubricants flash point was less than 400, but dilution rates in at less than .5%. I will have to wait to see more trends to know if it's the formulation or fuel dilution.
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It's not normal in my opinion. That's the manufacturer refusing to fix their own mess.
I'd trade any vehicle that consumed that much oil.
I'd trade any vehicle that consumed that much oil.
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It gets around/through the piston rings and is burned in the combustion process. This will leave deposits on the top of the cylinder and exhaust manifolds.
Like Beast said, it's burnt. It won't necessarily foul o2 sensors or the cats. Depends completely on how thoroughly it's burnt before reaching them.
Still not good. My 82 CB750 burns 1/2 quart every 1000 miles but that's on a vintage air cooled bike which cruises at 4k rpms and are known for oil consumption issues but that's besides the fact. 1qt is a lot per 1000 miles. Granted when I first got my 5.0 I was burning 3/4 quart but it was still in break in and on 5w-20. After switching to 10w-30 oil consumption has dropped tremendously and so has the amount caught in the oil separator. Now it's rare for me to get more than 2-3 tablespoons per 5k miles whereas I was catching a tablespoon every 1k miles or so.
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