Official GT 5.0/Boss 302 UOA thread

JDos1

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Nice results.
I have a 2013 GT. First oil change was at 4500 miles and went with mobile 1 5w-30. Was this a good choice? I plan to send a sample in next change. Adding a tvs pd soon and want to keep maintenance best I can. Any suggestions welcome.

Notice you're from Greenville...I live in Seneca.
Not a bad choice. I prefer running the -30 in the 5.0...I've noticed it's a lot quieter than the spec'd 5w-20.
PM me, we should meet up sometime for a mountain run.

I've got Valvoline SynPower 5w-20 in it at the moment because it's going in for a little warranty work soon. Don't want any "oh that's voided" issues especially since my hometown dealership that I use for a warranty work just changed owners and idk if they've retained the same level of care in the service dept.
 
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ArtVandalay16

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That'd be a good time, maybe get a few people together for a run. My car should be put back together mid September-tvs and a lot of suspension mods(only have Wednesday and Sunday off to work on it).
I'll try 5w-50 next oil change. I've always used mobile 1. Father does also in all his vettes.
Must be a reason ford puts -50 in the boss :)
 

SILV03MustangGT

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I just put the 0-30 Amsoil in my car. Ill be changing it out probably next year around April since ill be putting quite a bit of miles on the car before I head to Bahrain. Ill make sure to get the kit and do the test.
 

Krace

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That'd be a good time, maybe get a few people together for a run. My car should be put back together mid September-tvs and a lot of suspension mods(only have Wednesday and Sunday off to work on it).
I'll try 5w-50 next oil change. I've always used mobile 1. Father does also in all his vettes.
Must be a reason ford puts -50 in the boss :)

From my understanding why Ford picked the 5W-20 oil for the 5.0 gt. Is from the lower 7000 rpm and the use of oil squirters. And when you push this motor over that 7000 rpm the oil has a harder time getting to the heads because of the lower oil pressure the squirters are producing at higher rpm.

Now if you run 5w-50, the oil is to thick for the squirters to cool the pistons at the higher rpms. But the heads will be getting the right amount of oil it needs.
Thats why Ford removed the oil squirters from the Boss and added better rods, pistons and 5w-50 to accommodate the heat from not having the squirters. And now have the ability to run it at higher rpm's to produce more hp.

Now if you are like me and run the Boss302 intake manifold and run this motor up to 7500 rpm. Keep the 5w-20 and run the boss 302 oil cooler and radiator. (You have to run the bigger radiator also with the oil cooler to take on the extra heat from the oil or you are just transferring the extra heat from the oil to the coolant and not getting anywhere) This will help with keeping the oil cool and it will run a bit thicker because of it. Thus having the right velocity oil for the squirters and getting enough oil to the heads at the higher rpm range.

When modding a motor to do something it was not meant for, I think about longevity as well not just what power i can pull out of it for the time being.
 
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me32

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From my understanding why Ford picked the 5W-20 oil for the 5.0 gt. Is from the lower 7000 rpm and the use of oil squirters. And when you push this motor over that 7000 rpm the oil has a harder time getting to the heads because of the lower oil pressure the squirters are producing at higher rpm.

Now if you run 5w-50, the oil is to thick for the squirters to cool the pistons at the higher rpms. But the heads will be getting the right amount of oil it needs.
Thats why Ford removed the oil squirters from the Boss and added better rods, pistons and 5w-50 to accommodate the heat from not having the squirters. And now have the ability to run it at higher rpm's to produce more hp.

Now if you are like me and run the Boss302 intake manifold and run this motor up to 7500 rpm. Keep the 5w-20 and run the boss 302 oil cooler and radiator. (You have to run the bigger radiator also with the oil cooler to take on the extra heat from the oil or you are just transferring the extra heat from the oil to the coolant and not getting anywhere) This will help with keeping the oil cool and it will run a bit thicker because of it. Thus having the right velocity oil for the squirters and getting enough oil to the heads at the higher rpm range.

When modding a motor to do something it was not meant for, I think about longevity as well not just what power i can pull out of it for the time being.

Good info an explaination. But if you get a 2013 mustang 5.0 with track pack all of them use 5w-50 which even says on the oil caps.
 

UnleashedBeast

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The purpose of this thread is to see what works the best. That's why we need samples from all grades for comparison. Time will tell what this engine likes best.

Alright guys, Beast put a good bit of effort into this to give us a valuable resource. Let's revive this idea.

Here's my latest two UOA's. CAT keeps track with previous samples too so here's my two UOA's on my '11 GT.
Oldest UOA is with Amsoil OE Series 5w-20 and the newest is with Amsoil Signature Series 10w-30.

SCAN0022-1.jpg

Your sample looks excellent for 7,300 miles. Wear metals are extremely low, and the oil was only half used. Oxidation looks higher on paper due to the lubricant being a true synthetic. It's a hard metric to monitor when the measuring sticks are all different for all base stocks. Thank you for reviving this thread. I will add this to the master list soon.
 
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Krace

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Good info an explanation. But if you get a 2013 mustang 5.0 with track pack all of them use 5w-50 which even says on the oil caps.

Because the 2013 don't have oil squirters. And the track pack comes with an oil cooler and they assume you are going to run it harder then a normal gt. Also the pistons are slightly different in design to take on extra heat. That and plus the new vented hood of the 2013 for even more cooling.
 
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dohc32v

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have a question about changing oil. i own a 2012 boss 302 and i only have 130 miles on it. my ? is should i change it because its going into storage or wait till i put more miles on it next year ? car was built on july 2011 so its the factory oil.

thanks
 

nyjetsfan4lif3

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Because the 2013 don't have oil squirters. And the track pack comes with an oil cooler and they assume you are going to run it harder then a normal gt. Also the pistons are slightly different in design to take on extra heat. That and plus the new vented hood of the 2013 for even more cooling.

I thought the 13s still had the squirters ?
 

calgarybandit

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I always ran 5w-20 Royal Purple and I switched to 5w-30 Amsoil I was shocked how much quieter the motor ran on this oil.
 

JDos1

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Don't wanna come off the wrong way but came we keep the piston cooling jets issue to another thread so as not to jack this one?
 

JDos1

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so did I :shrug:

SO other than AMSOIL what is a good recommendation. I run PP 5-30

Valvoline Synpower seems to do pretty nice in UOA's. Check out Bobistheoilguy.com in the used oil analysis section and make a decision.
 

Krace

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Don't wanna come off the wrong way but came we keep the piston cooling jets issue to another thread so as not to jack this one?

Sorry my first post got a bit out of hand. I just wanted to explain why Ford use's 5w-20 in the GT5.0 and 5w-50 in the Boss 302.

IMO we should not over think what oil we need/use, when Ford did the hours of testing on the motor/oil/filter combo that is best to run in it for longevity and performance.

But the info in this thread is really interesting to read. I like the fact that we can see what the motor is doing just from the oil.
It will be really interesting to see what they read once someone hits 50k+ miles and running the same motor oil type since it was new. And then compare that with other oil's.

Anyway :beer:
 
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JDos1

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Sorry my first post got a bit out of hand. I just wanted to explain why Ford use's 5w-20 in the GT5.0 and 5w-50 in the Boss 302.

IMO we should not over think what oil we need/use, when Ford did the hours of testing on the motor/oil/filter combo that is best to run in it for longevity and performance.

But the info in this thread is really interesting to read. I like the fact that we can see what the motor is doing just from the oil.
It will be really interesting to see what they read once someone hits 50k+ miles and running the same motor oil type since it was new. And then compare that with other oil's.

Anyway :beer:

Not necessarily will the Motorcraft oil/filter be the best to use for that 10k mile change interval that the manual says you can run. It won't hold up like the true synthetics (RP, Amsoil SS, or Redline). I'd be about willing to bet $$ that the wear metals will be greater in the Motorcraft synblend with M/C Filter ran for 10k miles than it would with Amsoil Sig Series and an EA filter. I'd be willing to bet that even Synpower or Castrol Edge/Syntec would outperform the M/C oil.

If changed out at the proper intervals you can run just about any oil you want in it and be ok. I'm just running what I know are great oils, even though I'm not pushing them for as long as I could. I just think it's pretty sweet to see what everyone runs and how well it performs in their engines.

As far as the 50K miles goes, I'm almost there but have been using a variety of oil. First 3 changes received Napa Syn 5w-20 for 5k miles each, that took me to 20k miles (bought car with 5k miles on the odo), next 2 changes were OE series Amsoil 5w-20 for 5k each taking me to 30k miles, the following was Amsoil Sig Series 10w-30 for 7,300 taking me to where I'm at now. I currently have Synpower 5w-20 in it since I'm taking it in for some warranty work but will run it for 5k, then I'll run Synpower 10w-30 (already have in stock) for 5k, then back to Amsoil Sig Series for the remainder of the cars life.
 
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