Almost looks like your car has dropped motor mounts that are used in the big KB blowers and larger Whipples.
Whipple TB 68mm DB - Fitment Issue
- Thread starter moncho
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BJ is trying to relo his as he has the same issue. I think his k-member is lowered.
BJ, thank you sir for chiming in. I've been for the last 45 minutes focusing on the throttle body. The TB motor now sits lower on the Whipple 68mm dual bore. From the top view it's expected to see the motor overlapping the reservoir as Steve (@SCGallo2) provided some pics that support this. However from the side view he has a lot of room between the motor and the reservoir. Note he is using different TB with the motor located higher in the TB assembly.
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Here are better pics of the "arch" I believe you are referring to:
Here is a pic of my CJ Twin 65mm TB gear case showing a width of 1.5"
And here is a pic of how much the TB gear case and motor protrude from the S/C inlet, right at 3.25"
It not a gen2 vs gen3 issues, it is a the difference in the different years of GT500s. My 07 is just as bad or worse, with the Gen2 2.9 and Whipple Elliptical. As other have said you can adjust the mounts and K-member to have some clearance. I have poly engine mounts, so things don't move around much.
Steve, thanks for all the pics & the measurements you have taken. I do have the arch on the crusher inlet as you do, I've been informed that there hasn't been any change in this regard or the inlet for that matter. Now my focus has shifted some towards the brake master cylinder, reservoir & it's location on the firewall. More & more it seems to be pointing towards us '07 guys. And as 69b302 states he's had this issue all along on his '07 with his Gen2 2.9 & elliptical TB. BJ has the same on his '07 as well. The question starts to become can you live with it as 69b302 is doing. I'm going to try and pull/research some p/n's off the reservoir and the cylinder. Compare these between the '07 & '08/'09. What I can say at this time is Whipple has been supportive to this point.
@69b302 Your input is really appreciated as it helps piece this puzzle & tells me that it's possible to live with this. I have a piece of masking tape between the reservoir & the TB motor. I'll look @ it after a while to see of any evidence of the 2 touching.
Thanks!
KB recognized this issue on some of their blowers also and released an addendum. Here's a partial pic.
The new connector has three wires. The old has two. If anyone decides to go this route and pick up these replacement parts, I can describe how to wire the new connector.
The new connector has three wires. The old has two. If anyone decides to go this route and pick up these replacement parts, I can describe how to wire the new connector.
Glad to assist. I did this and it works. If you are careful drawing out the brake fluid and refilling, you will not need to bleed the brakes or the hydraulic clutch.
When i swapped out the manual reservoir with the auto reservoir, I siphoned as much brake fluid as I could using a mityvac. I made a "tray" out of heavy duty aluminum foil to put under the master cylinder when I separated the reservoir from the master. Just stay away from the brake pedal while they're separated and you'll be fine. I thought using the later reservoir might be a solution, but not knowing if the diameters were the same or not, could have been a bust.
Well, I am about to be in the same boat. Is it possible to swap the sensor out of the old reservoir and keep the wiring intact with the new reservoir?
Hopefully Willie can chime in and answer your question.
What year do you have?
What TB are you going with?
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Wanted to update everyone on my TB motor to reservoir clearance. To date there is no noticeable contact between the 2, as I mentioned earlier there is about a 1 millimeter clearance. I put a piece of blue masking tape & there isn't evidence of any rubbing or contact @ all. The engine seems very stable when running, although I'm in the middle of dialing in my tune I've done several WOT's. This should've more then likely shown some contact. According to @69b302 it's been that way since day 1. If @ a later point the 2 come in contact I'll go by what Willie provided. Here's a pic:
Thanks!
Thanks!
Looks like the car side is an USCAR connector, and the new sensor is a pt-118 connector, can probably make a slick adapter without chopping up oem harness
First of all, this connector is a low fluid warning indicator, that's all. So you really don't even need to connect it. I ran weeks without connecting it, but decided just to do it. The connector itself is integral to the reservoir, so changing it out is impossible. If you don't want to cut off the existing connector, it would be pretty simple to fab a harness to the new connector. It's only two wires.
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