I bought my car new. The original alternator was working fine when I had it replaced in 2021 with 51k miles, with a KMJ and big 3 cable up grade kit. I like it.
What did you do for your Terminator today?
- Thread starter mrose75
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I've already replaced my alternator before. I've put 10K miles on my car in the time I've had it so I'm finally just going to put a big alternator in there and hopefully be done with it.
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You might have a bad ground somewhere. Start with the big 3 and see if anything gets better.
Good call, I followed both battery cables all the way to their ends and found that my ground had been cut and spliced back together. Fixed my first charging issue (charge voltage drop with hot engine) back when my stock alternator was still alive.
I coughed up the money for a Nations alternator with the external adjustable regulator, I have it set at 14.2V when the engine is hot. Puts out around 14.4-6 when cold at idle. I have a gauge in the car I monitor it on.
Took a little while to figure out the correct shim stack to get it aligned, but after that no issues. No complaints.
I ran an EBAY alternator for a few years, worked fine during normal driving. During WOT pulls it would cut out around 5500rpm. Causing the fuel system to lean hard on the battery. Gave me issues for years on the dyno until the tuner started logging volts for me and pointed it out. I keep it as a backup anyway.
Took a little while to figure out the correct shim stack to get it aligned, but after that no issues. No complaints.
I ran an EBAY alternator for a few years, worked fine during normal driving. During WOT pulls it would cut out around 5500rpm. Causing the fuel system to lean hard on the battery. Gave me issues for years on the dyno until the tuner started logging volts for me and pointed it out. I keep it as a backup anyway.
I bought my car with a nations on it and still GTG.
I think it’s time for a battery tender.
What brand/model y’all run?
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I think it’s time for a battery tender.
What brand/model y’all run?
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You followed both the positive and negative starting from the battery? I actually started doing that the other day but didn't end up going to all the ends, I just looked around the ones that were near the battery and alternator.
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I have a CTEK on all my toys. Most are over 10 years old. No issues.
Just don't use them to charge a dual battery set up. They don't like that.
Been using a Battery Tender 4 bank with no complaints.
Yup, look for any hard kinks, wads of electrical tape, melty/burnt spots or corrosion. Cant recall the OEM ground point for the Negative battery cable but follow the Positive to the fuse block, alternator and starter.
iirc g105 attaches to a stud on the driver side motor mount
It’s honesty not as hard as people make it out to be. I think a lot of detailers make it out as if it’s very easy to mess your paint up which is not true… to an extent. With a rotary buffer you have to be careful you can burn through clear coat or burn a hull… ask me how I know
But with a DA it’s extremely forgiving and quite easy overall. It’s just really time consuming. I had over 10 hrs into the Shelby doing the clay bar paint correction and ceramic coating. Still worth it over paying 1K for a detail shop to do it and getting results that are really damn good for at home in my garage
Yep. That's the model I have.
You did a hell of a job. It's rewarding both personally and to your wallet when you can do it yourself. Or.....you can be blessed with a best friend who is a professional detailer, and who absolutely refuses to take any money for detailing/ceramic coating my last three vehicles.
Well one project aspect of the Black Coupe is done now. Got a new Pilot Bearing, McLeod Street Extreme clutch, McLeod Aluminum Flywheel, Ford Racing TOB. What an absolute nightmare that was on my back, luckily I was blessed to have help from my brother, and brother In law. TOB was broken in 4 pieces, Pilot Bearing fell apart trying to take it out even with my puller. Clutch, TOB, and everything was toast. Also found out why my Reverse lights never worked. The last chooch who was in here and replaced the clutch ripped the wiring in the harness for it. Cool story.. so for now I’ll have no Reverse lights until the motor comes out in the future. Also swapped some new wheels on there, what are your guys thoughts?
Attachments
Can you reach the other end of that harness??? If so its not too terribly hard to rewire/pin a cable. I would do that instead of trying to repair the break unless its a rat nest cable that goes all over the place. At least its just your revers lights.
I haven’t tried yet honestly. I finished the car two days ago. Changing the oil, and filter today. Gonna use the gas that’s in it, then drop the tank for the new pumps. Get ready for the whipple, etc.
Sweet. Got two. Same day delivery.
Amazon sucks lol
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