For some reason in your photos, I always think of you as a crabby old SOB, and it makes me smile.
What did you do for your Terminator today?
- Thread starter mrose75
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For some reason in your photos, I always think of you as a crabby old SOB, and it makes me smile.
I'm usually pretty laid back but can be the "Get the **** off my lawn" guy, in a nano second.
Now she’s finally complete, polished, sanded etc. ready to go on! Will post some photo after she’s all done. Hoping to get my X pipe bought before hand, we shall see.
I'll be doing this during the winter when I put longtubes on...looks great!
Thanks brother! I’ll tell her, she did it all by hand, and by herself while I was fixing the Z06, and hellcat. I wanted some long tubes, I just don’t know if I want to invest that much and not get much power from it.
I'll be hitting close to 700w so I feel it's worth it. I need to do motor mounts, I want to do some cleaning so it's all while I'm in there. I bought them early 2021 lol
Oh man hah, well yes with all your power adders and such you don’t have much left before you’re legit FBO down to headers. However for now I’m going to enjoy my stock Eaton, probably take my ported blower off my white coupe. I want to hover around 500-515. I feel that’s a sweet number for my street races. I’ve had the big whipple and such. I always felt my white coupe was just right. I’ve got other cars with over 700. So I want this one to be just right haha.
After breaking a ring land on #7 in the spring I finally got to drop the engine yesterday. Couple tools that really made this easy… Harbor freight 6ton jack stands for the front (go to 24” high), Race ramp 12” pedestal blocks for the rear, Harbor freight fender support bar (to drop the k-member) and transmission jack. First time pulling a cobra engine and it went pretty smooth. Now I’m excited for the next step. Shipping the long block to L&M for Pistons, rods, cams, and ARP everything.
it looks like he dropped it out the bottom, is that right @TP03 ? did you use the engine support tool to remove the k-member, and then use the hoist to lower the engine?
i pulled my terminator's engine in my garage for the first time a couple of years ago and was back and forth about whether to drop it out the bottom or pull it out from the top. i ended up pulling it out from the top because i don't have a lot of experience or knowledge about steering and suspension and thought it would be best to leave all that stuff alone. my main concern doing it that way was if i would have to remove the hood, but i didn't have to.
i pulled my terminator's engine in my garage for the first time a couple of years ago and was back and forth about whether to drop it out the bottom or pull it out from the top. i ended up pulling it out from the top because i don't have a lot of experience or knowledge about steering and suspension and thought it would be best to leave all that stuff alone. my main concern doing it that way was if i would have to remove the hood, but i didn't have to.
That's correct, I pulled it out the bottom and I did use the support tool to remove the K-member first. Then I dropped it down with the hoist onto a HF car dolly and two 2x6s in the front and the HF trans jack in the back. With the 6 ton jacks all the way up that combo rolled out without any problems.
I pulled mine out the top, mostly because that’s the way I have always pulled engines. Condsidering putti the back through the bottom once I get it back from the body shop
Drove it to dinner last night. I was still getting over how much better it's driving with that fuel pressure damper. I made a datalog last night and did some tweaks to the fuel table. I did some errands this morning which included running to Costco. It's running so damn smooth now. I'm so happy after dealing with that stumble for 2 years and not being able to get rid of it. I'm trying to figure out where to go tonight so I can drive it some more.
My dampener showed up this week too. Tried installing it on the end of my fuel rail…. It didn’t fit. I need a 90 to get enough clearance to the lower mounting bolts of the blower. So I ordered the fitting. Can’t wait to try this on my car.
I got lucky and one of the leftover bolts from my son's project was the right size to replace the one bolt by the rail. It has a shallow head so it gave me plenty of room for the damper.
If it's just the vacuum nipple hitting something while trying so screw the damper into the rail, you can disassemble the damper, install the bottom half into the fuel rail then install the top half. This also comes in handy if the vacuum nipple doesn't point the way you wanted it to (you can "clock" it to where you need it). Just be careful because there's a fairly stiff spring inside and put a rag underneath so you don't drop one of the screws down into the engine.
Good to know. I’m definitely going to want to clock it. Unfortunately it’s the body hitting, not just the fitting. Once the low pro 90 I ordered shows up I will be good to go.
Went to the track on Friday, very first “full” 1/8 pass with the 3.0, first car down the track. It felt good to shake the belt gremlins that plagued me for a full season.
This is on 28#’s, will work my way up to whatever I can throw at it. Full stock interior, 3620 race weight, pump e85, 3.25 rear street car.
This is on 28#’s, will work my way up to whatever I can throw at it. Full stock interior, 3620 race weight, pump e85, 3.25 rear street car.
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