To yote, or not to yote, that is the yote

What do


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  • Poll closed .

gimmie11s

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Not really sure what your power goals are, however 15-17' short blocks go for $1,800 brand new. They seem to live over 700hp pretty well. I bet you could get $700ish for just the bare block alone, used.


Forgot about that. Very true and a great idea.


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geoffmt

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I would go the new tech route with the coyote, I didnt on my build and am regretting it. Its the best bang for the buck and the most reliable. you can start with a truck motor for the lowest buck.
 

Kevins89notch

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I struggled with the thought, and finally said no. First, I already have a H/C/I 302 with a vortech making 14psi. I'm ready to crack the block as is. :)

So I could sell some of that, get 3K or so, and then spend 13K (so I'm out 10K), and....I would make less power. WTF is the point then? To really have fun with a coyote, I need a VMP and a tiny pulley or a custom turbo kit. Ignoring the fuel system, that's about 5K, 7K maybe more? Toss in small **** and I'm out 20K for a coyote swap to make 650rwhp.

That's a whole 150rwhp over what I make right now, and not being a fan of the drag strip (I'm more just a cruiser).... what's the point in dropping 20K for something that would be a little more fun, but that I don't need.

I'm just going to make some suspension upgrades and stay 302 based. If I crack this block, I'll likely just drop 2-3K on a basic rebuilt 302 and try again. :)

I would go the new tech route with the coyote, I didnt on my build and am regretting it. Its the best bang for the buck and the most reliable. you can start with a truck motor for the lowest buck.

Funny you mention "new tech." I'll fully admit I might stand along on the following, but I disagree. Yes I know you mean engine tech, but myself, I look at overall tech. A 2018 GT is damn amazing compared to 88 GT. People talk about wanting the new tech, but then drop it in with a manual rack, no AC, and autometer gauges.

If I were to do a coyote swap, I would want to use the full factory harness to keep the factory cluster, so I had track apps, miles left per tank, etc. I would also wire in/up the ABS, traction control, etc., plus keeping the power streering and AC. To me...THAT is bringing 2018 tech into an older car.
 

Coiled03

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Are you taking into account how much you could recoup by selling your current setup, OP?

Either way, I'd go with some SBF variant, 351W, or 460.
 

KingBlack

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contact me, as im ACTUALLY DOING this now. Some of these numbers being thrown out are ridiculous. They were correct 7 or 8 years ago, not now. rebuild the gen 1, with rods/pistons cams and CJ, 500whp. as much as i love the windsor 302, you'd have to supercharge a 302/306 in hopes of getting near that number, then pray it doesnt split.

I've seen the comp stg 3 cams around for $1000, so it can be done for less than most people think
 

My94GT

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Buy a used high mileage 5.0 out of an F150 and rebuild the short block and use the existing top end you have. Then add boost.
 

7upstang

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geoffmt

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I struggled with the thought, and finally said no. First, I already have a H/C/I 302 with a vortech making 14psi. I'm ready to crack the block as is. :)

So I could sell some of that, get 3K or so, and then spend 13K (so I'm out 10K), and....I would make less power. WTF is the point then? To really have fun with a coyote, I need a VMP and a tiny pulley or a custom turbo kit. Ignoring the fuel system, that's about 5K, 7K maybe more? Toss in small **** and I'm out 20K for a coyote swap to make 650rwhp.

That's a whole 150rwhp over what I make right now, and not being a fan of the drag strip (I'm more just a cruiser).... what's the point in dropping 20K for something that would be a little more fun, but that I don't need.

I'm just going to make some suspension upgrades and stay 302 based. If I crack this block, I'll likely just drop 2-3K on a basic rebuilt 302 and try again. :)



Funny you mention "new tech." I'll fully admit I might stand along on the following, but I disagree. Yes I know you mean engine tech, but myself, I look at overall tech. A 2018 GT is damn amazing compared to 88 GT. People talk about wanting the new tech, but then drop it in with a manual rack, no AC, and autometer gauges.

If I were to do a coyote swap, I would want to use the full factory harness to keep the factory cluster, so I had track apps, miles left per tank, etc. I would also wire in/up the ABS, traction control, etc., plus keeping the power streering and AC. To me...THAT is bringing 2018 tech into an older car.

Wow, that would be awesome!


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jaxbusa

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I thought hard about this as well. How much horsepower do you really need? It sounds like you already have a lot of parts for your current car. If you were starting from a stock car I would say go coyote. It sounds like you just need to buy a good block and power adder.
I think I would get a turbo and keep it around 450hp and save for a good block and rotating assembly.

Going with a coyote would be good if you were wanting a lightweight road racing n/a vehicle. If you want it at as higher level car you need to start adding up headers, computer, front accessories just to find that you’re limited on complete power adder kit for your application. If you have mad fabrication skills and time, go at it by all means.

Years ago a friend of mine had AFR heads, Trick flow intake on stock short block with a Hellion single kit. On lower boost he split the block. He ended up selling everything. If he would have just got a sportsman block he could have been able to turn up the boost and had a rocket.




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KingBlack

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I thought hard about this as well. How much horsepower do you really need? It sounds like you already have a lot of parts for your current car. If you were starting from a stock car I would say go coyote. It sounds like you just need to buy a good block and power adder.
I think I would get a turbo and keep it around 450hp and save for a good block and rotating assembly.

Going with a coyote would be good if you were wanting a lightweight road racing n/a vehicle. If you want it at as higher level car you need to start adding up headers, computer, front accessories just to find that you’re limited on complete power adder kit for your application. If you have mad fabrication skills and time, go at it by all means.

Years ago a friend of mine had AFR heads, Trick flow intake on stock short block with a Hellion single kit. On lower boost he split the block. He ended up selling everything. If he would have just got a sportsman block he could have been able to turn up the boost and had a rocket.




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a sportsman block is marginally better than a stock block
 

KingBlack

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Yes but he's not building a maximum effort race car. He seems very budget conscious.
I understand that but the old B50 is:
1-no longer available
2- is a two bolt main block. absolutely pointless to have an aftermarket performance block that is 2 bolt.
 
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jaxbusa

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You’re right, it’s not on their website. I would have a hard time dropping 2,000 on the boss block. You might’ve changed my stance.


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Deceptive

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I am thinking about selling my 01 Cobra roller and all the 4.6 stuff for it and finding a 96-98 Cobra and doing a Coyote swap/build. Plan is/was/will be a built engine with a Vortech V7.


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4GTNSVT

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I vote Coyote but that's cause I am currently deep into my coyote swap fox. I didn't go budget friendly tho. I am shooting for 1000 plus on mine. If you haven't yet join the coyote swap facebook page tons of great info about the swap.
 

IronSnake

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contact me, as im ACTUALLY DOING this now. Some of these numbers being thrown out are ridiculous. They were correct 7 or 8 years ago, not now. rebuild the gen 1, with rods/pistons cams and CJ, 500whp. as much as i love the windsor 302, you'd have to supercharge a 302/306 in hopes of getting near that number, then pray it doesnt split.

I've seen the comp stg 3 cams around for $1000, so it can be done for less than most people think

I'm not afraid of a rebuild, but this block broke a rod and cracked. It's totaled.

I feel like the cost won't be as substantial since i'm patient and i'll collect used swap parts over time.

I've been trying to drive it and enjoy it more as is. Been working on the tune etc. My biggest thing is determining the cost and whether it's worth it.
 

KingBlack

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I'm not afraid of a rebuild, but this block broke a rod and cracked. It's totaled.

I feel like the cost won't be as substantial since i'm patient and i'll collect used swap parts over time.

I've been trying to drive it and enjoy it more as is. Been working on the tune etc. My biggest thing is determining the cost and whether it's worth it.
the biggest cost you will run into is:

1 - Suspension (if you do it right. Maximum Motorsports, other stuff will fail for DD duty)
2 - Trans
3 - Electronics

The motor is the cheap and easy part.
 

IronSnake

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the biggest cost you will run into is:

1 - Suspension (if you do it right. Maximum Motorsports, other stuff will fail for DD duty)
2 - Trans
3 - Electronics

The motor is the cheap and easy part.

My car is one K member away from being their full kit with an FTBR IRS. Coilovers included.

I'd probably go quicktime bell with a TKO so I can run cable instead of hydraulic. Makes it that much easier. Holley seems to be the best out there and they have the plug and play kit for 2k.
 

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