Test drove a 03 cobra today and have a few questions...

[SVT Jim87]

First off, the car is equipped with a stage 2, twin disc clutch. I noticed that every time I shifted out of first or second gear I heard a loud clunking noise coming from the rear-end. From 3rd-6th gear it was fine, no clunking. My main question is, is this noise normal for this kind of clutch or could it be a larger problem that I should be concerned about? Here's the car I got them down 15k and depending what you guys think Im gonna go get it monday with my buddy who knows a lot more then what I know. They did compression test and all cylinders are firing.


Cars for Sale: 2003 Ford Mustang Cobra Coupe in Schaumburg, IL 60195: Coupe Details - 331424826 - AutoTrader.com

 

[Bdubbs]

You said the clunking is coming from the rear end, but then asked if this kind of noise is normal for a twin disc clutch. To me, it's sounds like the typical "cobra clunk", If that's the case it's pretty normal.

 

[04redfireRO]

I'm on a stock clutch and still everytime i put it in first at a light i can hear the rear end. It almost sounds like i don't push the clutch all the way to the floor. But all this is normal to Cobras

 

[SVT Jim87]

As

Thanks for the help bud! I was thinking I needed to fill the tires with fall air not summer air...

The reason why I ask about the clutch is bc it happen when I push the clutch in for 1st gear and again when I released the clutch shifting into 2nd. So that's kinda why I thought it might have something to do the clutch/trans.

sounds like the blinker fluid is low

 

[SVT Jim87]

thank you so much for the help man really thankful for the input!!!

CHECK THE TURN SIGNAL BELTS BEFORE BUYING!!!!!! if those aren't running smooth your screwed

 

[SVT_Troy]

Another for common cobra clunk. Clutch type doesn't matter if its cobra clunk.

 

[04RiceEater]

Cobra clunk is normal, u can get rid of it if you wana dish out the coin for a full tilt kit.

 

[thomas91169]

Standard Mustang driveline slop.

You get used to it. Could be something simple like driveshaft u-joints going out, but likely just standard Mustang slack between the tranny output shaft and the differential all getting loose and then slapped together when you go from 0 throttle to WOT and back to 0 throttle.

The annoying one is going from Neutral to 1st at a light with the clutch depressed and hearing a "Clunk".

 

[SVT Jim87]

Cobra clunk is normal, u can get rid of it if you wana dish out the coin for a full tilt kit.

how much are they? and any recommended shops to purchase through?

 

[MysticRob]

They cost some coin -- check out the product line here.

FULL TILT BOOGIE RACING

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Cobra clunk is normal, u can get rid of it if you wana dish out the coin for a full tilt kit.

Actually the FTBR bushings will probably NOT eliminate the Cobra clunk.
In fact some may find that it seems even louder since there is now no rubber back there to absorb the NVH.

The clunk is the take up of the total lash in the drive line.
Every splined connection has a small amount of lash, add them all up and engage the clutch and the sound makes it seem like it is all from the rear end, and most of it (but not all of it) is.

The bushings merely transmit the clunk to the body.

The benefits of the FTBR bushing kit far out weigh a little more NVH, I just want to make sure a new person does not get unrealistic expectations about what is going to get better from the modification.

An experienced driver of 99 through 2004 SVT Cobras can actually drive around the clunk with certain driving techniques, most of the time.
However a person new to the car is going to think something is profoundly wrong with the rear end.

And to some extent he would be right.:-D there is lots of short comings and compromises in the IRS bushings as they are from the factory and how they are after lots of years and miles. The pinion position diff mounts have to endure a tremendous amount of heat and compression.

 

[MBoyle1]

Actually the FTBR bushings will probably NOT eliminate the Cobra clunk.
In fact some may find that it seems even louder since there is now no rubber back there to absorb the NVH.

The clunk is the take up of the total lash in the drive line.
Every splined connection has a small amount of lash, add them all up and engage the clutch and the sound makes it seem like it is all from the rear end, and most of it (but not all of it) is.

The bushings merely transmit the clunk to the body.

The benefits of the FTBR bushing kit far out weigh a little more NVH, I just want to make sure a new person does not get unrealistic expectations about what is going to get better from the modification.

An experienced driver of 99 through 2004 SVT Cobras can actually drive around the clunk with certain driving techniques, most of the time.
However a person new to the car is going to think something is profoundly wrong with the rear end.

And to some extent he would be right.:-D there is lots of short comings and compromises in the IRS bushings as they are from the factory and how they are after lots of years and miles. The pinion position diff mounts have to endure a tremendous amount of heat and compression.

+1 FTB made my clunk A little louder as well as gear whine out back. I can drive around it most of the time but with a grabby clutch I get it once in a wile in reverse & first. But my 1/2 shafts are still original!

 

[SVT Jim87]

thanks for all the input everyone really appreciate it!!! I was just making sure before I jump into this Cobra Im not throwing away money. I have a like an extra 4k set aside to do whatever I need to the cobra. I was thinking about rebuilding the motor and getting the super charger ported.

 

[05satinGT]

Even with 93K from a dealer $15,000 seems like a good price. And that car looks CLEAN for 93K, good luck.

 

[JDUB348]

Before you proceed on with anything else with that car compression check it. A friend of ours recently picked up a '03 with 100k for like $12.5k. One of the drivers side cylinders only held 120 compression (normal is 160-180 I believe?). Needless to say he got rid of it.. and for ALOT more then he bought it for.. like $16.5k! I feel sorry who ever bought that car lol.. and to top it off it had no cobra spoiler and a flat black vinyl wrap on it :lol:

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[Roots-type]

Before you proceed on with anything else with that car compression check it. A friend of ours recently picked up a '03 with 100k for like $12.5k. One of the drivers side cylinders only held 120 compression (normal is 160-180 I believe?). Needless to say he got rid of it.. and for ALOT more then he bought it for.. like $16.5k! I feel sorry who ever bought that car lol.. and to top it off it had no cobra spoiler and a flat black vinyl wrap on it :lol:

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Not cool, or funny. :nonono:

 

[CobraBob]

I also recommend that you read through this info on my website.

Tips When Buying A Used 2003-2004 Cobra

 

[SpectorV]

I hear a clunk if I shift to hard (sloppy) vs an easier shift where it wont do it. Its common (if it is in deed what I think it is)

 

[Grimster]

I had the same thoughts when I first bought my cobra. I figured something was getting ready to break or something! It was unnerving at first, then the more I read on here the more it appeared to be the typical "cobra clunk" and I felt better. Needless to say, 2 years later I still hear the "clunk" every day, but I can typically drive normally and shift around the clunk from happening. It's just part of owning the car from what I can tell. My car is still a blast to drive and no adverse effects have been felt the result from it.

Do people who do a SRA swap still have the clunk? and is the clunk still there if someone keeps the IRS but swaps in an auto?

 

[Fastlane Cobra]

Check the obvious, the forward 2 differential bushings and replace with poly bushings. Easy to change and not at all expensive. This eliminated all of the clunk that I encountered in my first 99 cobra. Later in my 2003 cobra I took a different route to try to perfect the IRS for better handling.

Dead give away if the bushings are defective, just push up on the diff while the car is on a drive on lift. If you hear the clunking that is the culprit.